you mean it is not normal??

 

For me it seems normal. My both cars show a few degrees over 90 C.

 

thanks

 

smart dual TEMPS display​​​​​

scale equivalence...

Do you know how many miles/Km to expect these electrically heated thermostats to start failing:
75, 100, 125KMi?

 

Dont worry seeing differences of a degrees celcius, they are NOT TRUE 100% anyway, for the mechanical gauge. Use the OBD2 or the MB digital data if you want to see the true one.

 

WHY is the true engine Temp filtered more like hidden through this algorithm??


(Are CAN 1 and 2 refered to elsewhere as CAN-E1 and E2 ??)

 

To lower number of forum topicks, where car owners panic with every 5 degree temperature change.

 

our 80s volvo 240 had something like this for the coolant temp gauge. analog lying meter. folks made jumpers to bypass the simple analog circuit it used so the needle would read linearly.

 

Once Jaguar simply shorten the red color bar , so its kinda move the red color bar a bit more to the right on a clockwise swing gauge.... LOL.
People complaining why is the Jag running so hot ? So .. they shift the color bar hahahaah.


Also if one use OBD2 coolant temp logging on our W212, you will be surpised that MB will on purpose...under some condition make coolant temp at 110C when the ambient temp
is way cooler than average. 1st it wanted to perform the thermal efficiency thingy and 110C supposedly the BEST and the current "LYING" meter is good for that too, as it wont show 110C, it will show cooler than that.
2nd is when ambient temp is lower than average, the ECM knows it has abundance cooling capacity to immediately make correction/cooler if engine load suddenly is driven
aggressive and get hotter.

I seen this twice happening to my car on the only 10 hours non stop run I ever did and so happned I logged the whole journey.
Also it is the first time in my W212 ownership I been to a town at 1,000 meters altitude, which is 22C ambient instead of freaking hot Jakarta 32C year round daytime average temp.
The other temperature spike is to 105C is when suddenly big rain comes cooling the radiator. From 92ish C it is pushed to 105C fast. Opportunist Engine Computer ...DUHHH

 

When my W212 diesel runs perfect for years, I did have W211 who would display ECU temperature readings on the climatronic display.
Going down on long grades, the engine temp would drop to 74C, when cluster gauge was still in 90C area.

 

K,
Does that W211 diesel already come with the electro thermostat like the W212 M276 ?
I dont like this electro thermostat, its wax melting value is higher than normal thermostat....on purpose.
So that MB can command sooner or latter wax melt down electrically , but if heater fails, that means hotter coolant is by default.

 

Took me a while to learn what the cables on thermostat do.
I never had to take it apart though.
MB made thermostat BOOSTER and the wires power a heater.
It is still classic wax thermostat, but when ECU sense high load, it will start up the heater to open thermostat ahead of big temperature spike.
It is something I can't observe, but I routinely drive Baker CA grade, who is 17 miles long and about 5-6%.
Add >110 F several months a year and you have lot of burned spots on the shoulders.
I take it at 80mph, using truck lane to pass left lane huggers and my cars never overheat.

 

Well I wish what you said is the case : "when ECU sense high load, it will start up the heater to open thermostat ahead of big temperature spike."
My observation has proved the opposite. MB likes my M276 3.0 TT engine to run at least 90C or more at all time. I dont know what algo it throws for diesel engines.

SEE THE RAIN......
The fact that at 50+ KM/H it can warm up my engine to 105C, meaning shutting down or slowing down electric fan won't do much good to heat up my engine.......... as air velocity is already faster than the electric fan
75% speed base on my estimate..... this is a simple fact that the wax mixture in my electro thermostat has melting temperature above the normal 79C to 83C of older engine. I think it is at least 95C up to 100C melting
point. So MB is more interested in hotter running engine than anything else...in the name of efficiency.

RAIN started and MB push my temp UP on purpose, since mother nature offers abundance cooling reserve. The irony is : Wet-by-rain radiator get cooled down super fast. So MB knew that and ramped up my coolant temp instead.




Cold ambient temperature. Again MB ramped up my coolant temp, this time to 110C.... opportunist bastarzzd algorithm
I don't care about saving fuel, I want reserve cooling power.




10.5 hours run. See how much on average lower the coolant temps were when there was no rain and before the 1,000 meters altitude slow climb and 23C ambient temp.



The heater for the wax element can only OPEN the thermostat, but it can't CLOSE it.
So MB must choosen higher melting wax mixture, otherwise there is no way to heat up my coolant to 105C in then rain.

WHILE I WAS TESTING :
At 28C ambient, car stationary and revving to 3,000 and 4,000 RPM till rev limiter soft limit locked at 4,000 RPM..... in like 6 minutes my coolant temp goes to 110C and fan already blowing near maximum speed.
And then ECU cut off the RPM, it does not allow me to hit 4,0000 RPM anymore. That shows how weak the cooling fan and radiator capacity is for my climate, if I drive aggressive.
This is also the reason, only within 2 laps on a 2.9KM track, 120C coolant temp is the result if I drive agrresive and not even on a competition, just fun drive. Based on 32C ambient when at the track.



Sad ....

 

You just proved it again, that gasoline engine - technically is a heater.
About 60% of gasoline calories is converted in it into heat.
Horse power is smaller byproduct
With my diesel vehicles, only Sprinter operates with higher engine temperatures as "barn door" takes lot of energy to push.
All the cars most of the time are too cold, regardless 40 or even 50C weather

 

Hi Oda112
Could you please let me know if you found what was the issue on your car?