botaggs1

Hi All,

Just got my new to me 2016 E350 4matic with the sport package. I like the Harman Kardon system but definitely think it could use better speakers and more bass. I am planning on adding a JL amp and subwoofer in the trunk (tapping into the existing sub for signal and the aux battery in the trunk for power). I did some searching but didn't see much discussion on specific speaker brands and installs anyone has completed in the doors? I am planning on getting JL C2's to replace the 6.5 inch speakers in the doors and the tweeters and that's about it. Does anyone have any thoughts on this and/or did a different install?

Thanks!

EuroDriverSD

I'm not sure on the W212 but I researched this quite a bit for my old W211. The HK system is quite complex - the entertainment system operates through fiber optic and it's not that simple to add an amp or sub. IIRC, the speakers re 2 ohm, which seriously limits your aftermarket availability. I know some guys gutted the system and set up a 4 ohm system wired independently from the car's existing wiring. That brings in another whole set of limitations because the stereo is networked to the rest of the infotainment system via canbus.

The car's audio system is actually quite capable, but the weak link is the head unit. It severely throttles the factory amp's power.

In my case on the W211, I replaced the factory head unit with an aftermarket. I had to use a fiber optic-to-analog converter called NAV-TV or OPTI-One (something like that). It was not cheap but the increase in sound output and quality was impressive - my friends all thought I had added a sub.

Unfortunately I am not aware of such a converter being available for the W212.

retna7

Front door panel. Sound deadening. 6.5 inch Focal components. Open cell foam ring.

Mass Loaded vinyl, 3M tape, Focal crossover.

Adamantium drill bits, drilled through door and body to run wire from crossover to components on rear deck, stainless steel wrap, plastic grommets.

botaggs1

Thanks for the responses guys. I would definitely like to know for sure if the OEM speakers are 4 ohms or 2 ohms as that would be a huge issue with my plan. Could anyone confirm?

Toadroller

I turn up the bass to +5. It gets stronger without getting muddy, unlike any other car stereo I've ever had (I'm looking at you, Amar Bose).

botaggs1

Bump, just curious if anyone can confirm the number of ohms in the OEM speakers in the doors before I open the door panel up.

ccww

I looked in WIS and EPC and I cannot find any information about the impedance of the loudspeaker drive units. My apologies.

I do have some experience to share, however. I have not replaced any speakers, but I did add butyl-rubber and aluminum foil constrained layer damping (CLD) to the inner metal door skins. I also retrofitted foam rings that go around the outside of the woofer mounts and seal the woofers against their grilles in the door cards. These foam rings are MB OEM parts that are specified for the B&O system, but not the HK system. Part numbers are A2186820208 in the front and A2047220842 in the rear. You need two of each. Between the damping and the foam seals, the quality of the bass and midrange has dramatically increased. There is also more bass and midbass, but not nearly as dramatic of change in quantity as quality. The bass is tighter, cleaner, and more accurate and the entire sonic picture is improved.

You should look at this thread to understand some of the complexities of working on the MB speaker mounts. You may find that the subwoofer and damping plus the foam seals in the doors is sufficient and much easier than replacing the door speakers. Also remember that there is no way to adjust for a door speaker of a different sensitivity with the stock amplifier.

botaggs1

Thank you for your thorough and thoughtful reply. That's a great idea and definitely one I will consider.

botaggs1

Could you recommend a reliable place for me to purchase?

ccww

For the MB part numbers I would recommend your local dealer. The fronts are about $20 each and the rears about $5 each. You could also order from an online parts dealer but the cost savings will likely be eaten up by shipping. My MB dealer overnights all their parts in for free so I like that.

For the damping material I used Second Skin Audio’s Dampifier. You could also use their thicker Dampifier Pro. Don’t use their estimates for square footage on their website, they’re absurdly high. I used 1 sqft per door. I would recommend 1-2 sqft per door. Remember that with damping about 20% coverage gets 80-90% of the benefit of 100% coverage, so obsessing over squeezing a bit more in isn’t necessary. Also make sure you get a roller (they sell one that works well) and roll it down good. This keeps it stuck on, increases performance, and prevents moisture from being trapped between the damping and sheet metal.

botaggs1

Thanks for this. I'll order the parts next time I go to the dealer. I have a little experience with sound damping. I came from a W205 which is really poorly insulated and I put a ton of cheap Noico (two layers) on the doors which made a hell of a difference. But good to know nonetheless that I wouldn't need as much this time.