ABS, TRACTION CONTROL, BRAKE lights all on after various repairs & vibration noise
12-11-2020, 03:20 AM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2010 Mercedes Benz E350 Sport Luxury RWD & 2006 Mercedes Benz E500 AWD
ABS, TRACTION CONTROL, BRAKE lights all on after various repairs & vibration noise
Hello mbworld.org users.
I’m new to the board. I’m here seeking help with an issue that came about after my buddy did a lot of work to my 2010 E350 Sport RWD. He did the following:
-rotors & pads
-bearings all around
-struts all around
-all front ball joints
-front left outter tie rod end
-front control arms
-rear ebrake kit
-ac compressor
After doing all these repairs my dash board has the abs light on, the traction control light on, the brake light on, also after doing the ac compressor for some reason I’m getting heavy vibrations when I start the car from a cold start. And when I put it in reverse it makes the noise louder. And when I turn the steering wheel it makes a weird squeal noise and also slowly in some points the other vibration I’m talking about almost goes away and at some points it does go away. And this is during the car in reverse. Once I put the car in drive that vibration goes away. And also from a cold start is when all this happens. And then when I actually on a cold start drive off abs turn the wheel the noise that comes out squeal from the steering wheel being turned and the vibration comes and goes. Once the car warms up from driving the vibration goes away. BUT in reverse that vibration still is there and doesn’t go away no matter what. Can anyone please help me with these issues or maybe steer me in the right direction as to what I’m dealing with here please? I would really appreciate it! I’ve just don’t know much about mechanics and repairing cars. And also supposedly my other buddy tried to reset all these errors with one of those laptop scanners that costs like $15,000 or whatever and after resetting the errors and lights. But it still turned right back on. So I don’t know what’s going on here or causing these issues. Can I get some advice or help here please from anyone who may be able to help? It’s winter time and snow is around the corner here in my state and my car will not be safe to drive at all once the weather changes for the worse and at which point it will not be safe for me to drive my car. Again, any help what so ever would be very helpful. Thanks!
I’m new to the board. I’m here seeking help with an issue that came about after my buddy did a lot of work to my 2010 E350 Sport RWD. He did the following:
-rotors & pads
-bearings all around
-struts all around
-all front ball joints
-front left outter tie rod end
-front control arms
-rear ebrake kit
-ac compressor
After doing all these repairs my dash board has the abs light on, the traction control light on, the brake light on, also after doing the ac compressor for some reason I’m getting heavy vibrations when I start the car from a cold start. And when I put it in reverse it makes the noise louder. And when I turn the steering wheel it makes a weird squeal noise and also slowly in some points the other vibration I’m talking about almost goes away and at some points it does go away. And this is during the car in reverse. Once I put the car in drive that vibration goes away. And also from a cold start is when all this happens. And then when I actually on a cold start drive off abs turn the wheel the noise that comes out squeal from the steering wheel being turned and the vibration comes and goes. Once the car warms up from driving the vibration goes away. BUT in reverse that vibration still is there and doesn’t go away no matter what. Can anyone please help me with these issues or maybe steer me in the right direction as to what I’m dealing with here please? I would really appreciate it! I’ve just don’t know much about mechanics and repairing cars. And also supposedly my other buddy tried to reset all these errors with one of those laptop scanners that costs like $15,000 or whatever and after resetting the errors and lights. But it still turned right back on. So I don’t know what’s going on here or causing these issues. Can I get some advice or help here please from anyone who may be able to help? It’s winter time and snow is around the corner here in my state and my car will not be safe to drive at all once the weather changes for the worse and at which point it will not be safe for me to drive my car. Again, any help what so ever would be very helpful. Thanks!
12-11-2020, 08:10 AM
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 1,363
Received 1,008 Likes
on
675 Posts
'11 E350, '11 E550, '98 M3, '95 E320
Pull the codes and share. My guess speed sensor and/or wiring damaged or not hooked up after those repairs.
The vibration when starting the engine is likely the motor mounts, which get worse when you put the car in drive or reverse. Typical problem on these cars, 50-100k miles, 7-10 years.
The noise when turning the wheel, is it a squeal or chirp? That would likely be the accessory belt/pulleys/tensioner. Another item probably to go around 100k.
The vibration when starting the engine is likely the motor mounts, which get worse when you put the car in drive or reverse. Typical problem on these cars, 50-100k miles, 7-10 years.
The noise when turning the wheel, is it a squeal or chirp? That would likely be the accessory belt/pulleys/tensioner. Another item probably to go around 100k.
Last edited by bmwpowere36m3; 12-11-2020 at 08:13 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Dr. Gonzo (12-11-2020)
12-12-2020, 04:51 AM
#3
Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2010 E350 Sport RWD & 2006 E500 AWD
Pull the codes and share. My guess speed sensor and/or wiring damaged or not hooked up after those repairs.
The vibration when starting the engine is likely the motor mounts, which get worse when you put the car in drive or reverse. Typical problem on these cars, 50-100k miles, 7-10 years.
The noise when turning the wheel, is it a squeal or chirp? That would likely be the accessory belt/pulleys/tensioner. Another item probably to go around 100k.
The vibration when starting the engine is likely the motor mounts, which get worse when you put the car in drive or reverse. Typical problem on these cars, 50-100k miles, 7-10 years.
The noise when turning the wheel, is it a squeal or chirp? That would likely be the accessory belt/pulleys/tensioner. Another item probably to go around 100k.
so the funny thing is.. it hasn’t thrown any codes at all. At least not this whole time until literally yesterday. It went on. I didn’t get a chance to scan.. and then it went off...also.. before all those repairs it never made any of those noises.. none of them at all. ALL these started after these repairs.. and the tensioner pulley may be bad. But I think one of the idle pulleys is shot. The noise when turning is like a squeal but also like a chatter as well. Two noises. But they go away after I drive and warm up. Meanwhile the noise I speak of when I cold start still stays that rattling in reverse and when I park. And it doesn’t change when I put heat or ac on or off. But again NONE of these noises were here before all this work. Neither any of the issues with the lights listed etc. where is the speed sensor located?
12-12-2020, 10:21 AM
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 1,363
Received 1,008 Likes
on
675 Posts
'11 E350, '11 E550, '98 M3, '95 E320
Didn’t you say it had the ABS, TC and Brake light AND your friend cleared codes and they came right back?
So, do you have an warning lights currently or codes (active or stored)? If not, then there isn’t an issue with that. You could still view the wheel speed sensors (live data) with a good scanner to confirm their working.
The other issues, I think are motor and trans mounts and accessory belt/idlers/tensioner... the former not related to service and the latter possibly since the belt needed to come off and you touch the tensioner.
That’s my thoughts without more info, video or seeing the car.
So, do you have an warning lights currently or codes (active or stored)? If not, then there isn’t an issue with that. You could still view the wheel speed sensors (live data) with a good scanner to confirm their working.
The other issues, I think are motor and trans mounts and accessory belt/idlers/tensioner... the former not related to service and the latter possibly since the belt needed to come off and you touch the tensioner.
That’s my thoughts without more info, video or seeing the car.
The following users liked this post:
pierrejoliat (12-12-2020)
12-12-2020, 10:37 AM
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
Without any data or code description all you're going to get are guesses unfortunately.
Immediate return of CEL after clearing indicates a hard fault not impacted by a drive cycle. Meaning there's an issue identified by the ECU that needs to be resolved.
Have no idea what your friends have done but it's logical to think that if there were no codes before the work then something was done incorrectly.
Before you start replacing parts, need to scan for live data. Verify that all speed sensors are reporting correctly to the ABS/poeertrain module. If one or more sensors aren't correct or not reporting don't assume it's the sensor. Check connector to sensor for signal. If there's signal then the trouble is with the sensor OR the tone/magnetic ring at the hub.
Off the top of my head I think MB uses a magnetic ring on one side of the wheel bearing. This ring aligns with position of the sensor at the hub. If so, then the bearing may have been installed backwards which means the sensor has nothing to sense. I'm not 100% sure of this but easy enough to verify for your car.
Have a plan for diagnosis - it will help to narrow down the problem.
Immediate return of CEL after clearing indicates a hard fault not impacted by a drive cycle. Meaning there's an issue identified by the ECU that needs to be resolved.
Have no idea what your friends have done but it's logical to think that if there were no codes before the work then something was done incorrectly.
Before you start replacing parts, need to scan for live data. Verify that all speed sensors are reporting correctly to the ABS/poeertrain module. If one or more sensors aren't correct or not reporting don't assume it's the sensor. Check connector to sensor for signal. If there's signal then the trouble is with the sensor OR the tone/magnetic ring at the hub.
Off the top of my head I think MB uses a magnetic ring on one side of the wheel bearing. This ring aligns with position of the sensor at the hub. If so, then the bearing may have been installed backwards which means the sensor has nothing to sense. I'm not 100% sure of this but easy enough to verify for your car.
Have a plan for diagnosis - it will help to narrow down the problem.
