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So the left rear reads -30 mm to -36 mm level but you still have 1 1/2" between tire and fender. I think your left rear level sensor is bad or reading wrong due to off calibration or the sensing arm is broken or has moved as with -30 mm you should not have 1 1/2" between tire and fender.
That's a good catch... he said driver's rear and left rear in the scan tool data didn't "click" for me. I agree, that's odd if there's a 1.5" gap... unless ALL the other corners are even higher. Unless its RHD, brought it home from Kuwait... not sure.
Meant RHD
Last edited by bmwpowere36m3; 04-05-2021 at 08:35 AM.
That's a good catch... he said driver's rear and left rear in the scan tool data didn't "click" for me. I agree, that's odd if there's a 1.5" gap... unless ALL the other corners are even higher. Unless its LHD, brought it home from Kuwait... not sure.
It's a USA car. Was my dad's.
Originally Posted by Arrie
So the left rear reads -30 mm to -36 mm level but you still have 1 1/2" between tire and fender. I think your left rear level sensor is bad or reading wrong due to off calibration or the sensing arm is broken or has moved as with -30 mm you should not have 1 1/2" between tire and fender.
That corner is the lowest on the car. Driver's front is the 2nd lowest when set for max height. Once I get time I will try using my air compressor to inflate that corner at the valve block like someone mentioned earlier. After that I'll pull the wheel off and see if anything is broken.
Originally Posted by Azhy
My air struts just arrived. I will be replacing them tomorrow and will post an update. We got the same error code but we may have a different issue. Does your scanner tool have the ability to check the compressor?
No, unfortunately it doesn't. And sorry for taking over your thread.
I've been working so I haven't had time to work on the car. I'll try to get to it Tuesday if I have time. Thanks again for all the input.
No, unfortunately it doesn't. And sorry for taking over your thread.
No problem at all. Hopefully you got some helpful info.
As an update for mine:
I replaced my front air struts (It was a pain in the butt to swap) and so far it has not dropped yet. Can't be too sure just yet as swapping the control valve fixed the issue but only for few days. Hopefully it wont drop anymore. Not sure what I did wrong but seems like my alignment is off now because the car will pull to the right slowly if I let go of steering. Also getting lots of vibration but I am getting my tires balanced and rotated tomorrow assuming that is the issue.
My front suspension used to drop overnight but now it drops 30 minutes to an hour after not driving it. I eventually got the malfunction error on the dash. I did the soapy water test for leaks and found nothing. My compressor seemed to working fine so I ruled that out. I figured it could have been the solenoid valve block (level control valve) so I replaced it. After replacing it, the ride seemed smoother. (I should add, there are clunking noises and lots of vibration in the wheel. Recently learned it could be bad shock absorbers. Not sure how related it is to the issue) The front did not drop and everything seemed fine and the problem was fixed. 3 days later the front dropped again and the clunking noises came back. It took about a month for the malfunction error to return. Not sure what happened that replacing the valve block completely fixed the issue but only for 3 days.
I bought the iCarsoft MB2 scanner hoping it would help diagnose the issue. It didn’t really help me solve the problem and the codes I looked up, everyone who posted had a different issue. I can share some information I got from it. I’m sure you guys can make more sense of it than me.
Fault Codes
C156784 (Historic): The left front vehicle level is outside the tolerance. There is a signal below permissible limit value
C156984 (Historic): The right front vehicle level is outside the tolerance. There is a signal below permissible limit value
C155664 (Current): The compressed air sensor for system pressure has a malfunction. There is an unreasonable signal. (could this be a compressor issue?)
Other
Compressor locked due to activation time limit: NO
Compressor locked due to on-board electrical system limp-home mode: NO
k67 Airmatic relay: OK
KVD5 Fault: 53336/6058
Signal Voltage of component B22/10 (right rear level sensor): 2137 mV
Signal Voltage of component B22/7 (left rear level sensor): 2824 mV
Signal Voltage of component B22/8 (left front level sensor): 4157 mV
Signal Voltage of component B22/9 (right front level sensor): 2000 mV
Power consumption on axle dampening valve units: both front 259 mA, both rear 298mA. All axle dampening valves are: OK
Pressure in central reservoir: 10.57 bar
Pressure in left front suspension strut: 10.43 bar
Pressure in left rear suspension strut: 10.43 bar
Pressure in right front suspension strut: 10.29 bar
Pressure in right rear suspension strut: 10.29 bar
Level Calibration completed: YES
Lock position: OFF
____
Random note: the rear drops if I leave it on sports mode. It wont drop if I leave it on comfort.
I have read a lot of the threads on here and what I found most was people had leaks in the airbags. I did a leak test on the exposed part of the airbag and found nothing. Also I sat next to it and didn't hear any hissing noise so I am really confused as to what is going on. As for the clunking noise, I figure if the shock absorbers are bad I would have to get new struts anyway. Then I would find out if the problem was in the struts. I hoping to figure out the issue exactly so I don’t buy a part I won’t have to yet. Any info would be great and I appreciate anyone who took the time to read all that.
Thanks.
hey man I have a 2014 E550W love it. Changed all 4 airbags with the compressor. I fixed the front. 1 month later the back bags needed to go. Ever since I replaced the back ones. And the compressor with it. Never had issues again.
hey man I have a 2014 E550W love it. Changed all 4 airbags with the compressor. I fixed the front. 1 month later the back bags needed to go. Ever since I replaced the back ones. And the compressor with it. Never had issues again.
That's good to hear. What brand were they? Do you feel a difference in ride quality?
Ok, I tried using my air compressor on the line at the valve block and it inflated. Did it a few times without any issue. I also held my finger over the end of the line after filling it and didn't hear any leaks. What I did notice is that that side didn't fully deflate. It stayed at it's normal height.(1.5" gap again). Even if I pushed down/bounced the trunk. Maybe it's because the other 3 aren't deflated?? I
took the wheel off and didn't see anything unusual in the suspension, but I did see something odd on the top of the airbag. The little black plastic piece is loose or broken. I could move it around with my finger, but couldn't get it out. I don't think it affects anything though since it did inflate. Pics attached. Again, sorry for being so big.
The black plastic clip, it what keeps the airbag from falling out of position in its upper perch. It may be broken now. Like in this image (which has a white clip):
That black/white clip locks into the round hole at the top of the air bag.
Ok, I tried using my air compressor on the line at the valve block and it inflated. Did it a few times without any issue. I also held my finger over the end of the line after filling it and didn't hear any leaks. What I did notice is that that side didn't fully deflate. It stayed at it's normal height.(1.5" gap again). Even if I pushed down/bounced the trunk. Maybe it's because the other 3 aren't deflated?? I
took the wheel off and didn't see anything unusual in the suspension, but I did see something odd on the top of the airbag. The little black plastic piece is loose or broken. I could move it around with my finger, but couldn't get it out. I don't think it affects anything though since it did inflate. Pics attached. Again, sorry for being so big.
I'm still struggling with your explanation of ride height and the 1.5" value.
You have to understand the ride height of the car (four values total, one for each corner) is calibrated/programmed into the airmatic module. There's three settings for ride height: lowered, normal and raised. Normal is when neither the sport or raised function are engaged (car's height is maintained at calibrated/programmed setting). Lowered is set by selecting Sport on suspension mode button and this lowers the car 10 mm (from normal). Raised is set by selecting the raise suspension button and this raises the car 20 mm (again from normal).
So between sport and raised, you should see a delta or 30 mm at all corners. All this hinges on the programmed ride height. Also don't think of it as "max" height, because it may not be the max from a physical standpoint.
Can you verify the airlines to the valve body are connected correctly? Meaning: VR = Front Right, VL = Front Left, HR = Rear Right, HL = Rear Left, SP = Reservoir, P = Compressor
If they were swapped accidentally, it could explain the wacky ride height differences of all four corners your suggesting exists. Now this wouldn't explain why the lowest corner, but not really "low" since you have a 1.5" gap between the top of the tire and wheel well, is reading -30 mm or something like that. Then again, maybe were reading too much into this scan tool data and it might be a wild goose chase if the data is not accurate.
If you were closer, I'd offer to hookup Xentry figure it out.
Last edited by bmwpowere36m3; 04-06-2021 at 04:24 PM.
I'm still struggling with your explanation of ride height and the 1.5" value.
You have to understand the ride height of the car (four values total, one for each corner) is calibrated/programmed into the airmatic module. There's three settings for ride height: lowered, normal and raised. Normal is when neither the sport or raised function are engaged (car's height is maintained at calibrated/programmed setting). Lowered is set by selecting Sport on suspension mode button and this lowers the car 10 mm (from normal). Raised is set by selecting the raise suspension button and this raises the car 20 mm (again from normal).
So between sport and raised, you should see a delta or 30 mm at all corners. All this hinges on the programmed ride height. Also don't think of it as "max" height, because it may not be the max from a physical standpoint.
Can you verify the airlines to the valve body are connected correctly? Meaning: VR = Front Right, VL = Front Left, HR = Rear Right, HL = Rear Left, SP = Reservoir, P = Compressor
If they were swapped accidentally, it could explain the wacky ride height differences of all four corners your suggesting exists. Now this wouldn't explain why the lowest corner, but not really "low" since you have a 1.5" gap between the top of the tire and wheel well, is reading -30 mm or something like that. Then again, maybe were reading too much into this scan tool data and it might be a wild goose chase if the data is not accurate.
If you were closer, I'd offer to hookup Xentry figure it out.
The car is set in comfort mode and normal height. Even if I set it for max height, that corner doesn't change for some reason. Lines are color coded at the valve block and are hooked up correctly. The gap is what I measure with my tape measure. I'm just as lost as you are since I didn't do anything at that wheel. I'm thinking the calibration is out of whack somehow. The setting for that wheel just isn't right. Here are pics of valve block and both rear tires. I'm thinking I may unhook the battery for awhile and unhook the air lines so the car sits on the floor and try again.
Left rear seems about right, maybe a touch high... the right rear is WAY high. My suggestion is find someone with Xentry... activate each corner (raise/lower) to verify the the system works from the control to output side and monitor the ride height values to ensure they make sense. Then check the ride height calibration and recalibrate if needed.
Update! My dad came and got the car for a few days and got it inspected. Came by today and the car is level! Hooked up my scanner and all the values are where they should be.( the -60 is a 1 now). So, I guess it just needed to be driven for a bit. All is good with it now. Thanks for all the help everyone.
Update! My dad came and got the car for a few days and got it inspected. Came by today and the car is level! Hooked up my scanner and all the values are where they should be.( the -60 is a 1 now). So, I guess it just needed to be driven for a bit. All is good with it now. Thanks for all the help everyone.
Well, that was easy... should have just driven it Glad it seems to have been sorted out.
After replacing my rear air bags (they are separate from the struts in the rear) I still have my rear right behaving the same, after parking, starting to slowly droop lower eventually causing the entire vehicle to settle right down to fully deflated after about 24hrs.
I decided to try the suggestion in this thread and after parking in the garage (in 'comfort' mode), I disabled the Airmatic system by pulling 2 fuses and waited to see what happens. Low and behold, after about half a day, the rear right did sink about a 1/4" and the following morning it is now down 3/4" while the other remaining 3 struts seem to be holding in place.
Here are some facts:
I've inspected the valve block with soapy solution and it appears ok
I removed and inspected the air compressor incl. disassembling it and although the outside is very weathered the inside (piston and chamber) appeared very clean and it seems to function normal. I disconnected the main line and no moisture was present.
I've replaced the rear air bags with Arnott bags (many threads seem to point to these being the most common culprit)
I've ran some scans with the creader scanner, and vehicle level, sensors etc seem to be normal (voltages and readings) BUT I do have one stored 'abnormal' MSG stating that the Right Front level is out of tolerance and signal is below permissible value.
I live in a harsh winter climate and a city with some of the worst potholes a vehicle can endure and have hit some real nasty one's in the past 10 years, but again, only have about 89 000KM on the vehicle.
When swapping to my winter tires recently, the tire shop reported that my rear right tire was much more worn than the remaining tires.
So any suggestions of where to go from here? Is it possible that the rear right strut (no air mechanism in it) is damaged and slowly sagging causing me my headaches, or does the line itself to the air bag have a leak somewhere (incl. inside the valve block)?
After replacing my rear air bags (they are separate from the struts in the rear) I still have my rear right behaving the same, after parking, starting to slowly droop lower eventually causing the entire vehicle to settle right down to fully deflated after about 24hrs.
I decided to try the suggestion in this thread and after parking in the garage (in 'comfort' mode), I disabled the Airmatic system by pulling 2 fuses and waited to see what happens. Low and behold, after about half a day, the rear right did sink about a 1/4" and the following morning it is now down 3/4" while the other remaining 3 struts seem to be holding in place.
Here are some facts:
I've inspected the valve block with soapy solution and it appears ok
I removed and inspected the air compressor incl. disassembling it and although the outside is very weathered the inside (piston and chamber) appeared very clean and it seems to function normal. I disconnected the main line and no moisture was present.
I've replaced the rear air bags with Arnott bags (many threads seem to point to these being the most common culprit)
I've ran some scans with the creader scanner, and vehicle level, sensors etc seem to be normal (voltages and readings) BUT I do have one stored 'abnormal' MSG stating that the Right Front level is out of tolerance and signal is below permissible value.
I live in a harsh winter climate and a city with some of the worst potholes a vehicle can endure and have hit some real nasty one's in the past 10 years, but again, only have about 89 000KM on the vehicle.
When swapping to my winter tires recently, the tire shop reported that my rear right tire was much more worn than the remaining tires.
So any suggestions of where to go from here? Is it possible that the rear right strut (no air mechanism in it) is damaged and slowly sagging causing me my headaches, or does the line itself to the air bag have a leak somewhere (incl. inside the valve block)?
On the solenoid swap the RR with RL, and see if it follows. if the side dropping changes you got a bad solenoid. If it's the same side, either the lines or the new bag is bad. Also make sure you are following the sensor height, when it's filling/purging.
On the solenoid swap the RR with RL, and see if it follows. if the side dropping changes you got a bad solenoid. If it's the same side, either the lines or the new bag is bad.
Great idea, I'll try it tomorrow.
Originally Posted by S. Madman
Also make sure you are following the sensor height, when it's filling/purging.
You have a monitoring tool (like Xentry)? Use that to see the resistance in real time of the sensors.
Right, but are you referring to the actual vehicle levels, voltages, or pressure in each corner? I've watched my tool live while it fills up after starting the vehicle and everything seems pretty normal but vehicle levels (measured in mm) is always slightly lower on the right side of my vehicle but I thought it was negligible (we're talking 2-3mm difference between the right and the left sides)
Right, but are you referring to the actual vehicle levels, voltages, or pressure in each corner? I've watched my tool live while it fills up after starting the vehicle and everything seems pretty normal but vehicle levels (measured in mm) is always slightly lower on the right side of my vehicle but I thought it was negligible (we're talking 2-3mm difference between the right and the left sides)
It is negligible. Then do the change, and report back. Look for my post about swapping the solenoid.
It is negligible. Then do the change, and report back. Look for my post about swapping the solenoid.
I have switched the RR/RL lines and am now waiting Interestingly, after connecting the fuses and firing up the vehicle to refill the air system, after it was complete, it seemed that the rear corners were not perfectly the same height when simply measuring from my garage floor to fender (1/4" difference). Of course tire pressure and other things could be a factor OR my rear struts need replacing.
I have switched the RR/RL lines and am now waiting Interestingly, after connecting the fuses and firing up the vehicle to refill the air system, after it was complete, it seemed that the rear corners were not perfectly the same height when simply measuring from my garage floor to fender (1/4" difference). Of course tire pressure and other things could be a factor OR my rear struts need replacing.
I'll check your other post too.
thanks.
In the picture a very simple tool to 100% prove/disprove air spring leak. Built this as I had a brand-new Arnott front air strut leaking in my S550. Could not believe it but had to after car went down with the ball valve closed just like it did before I installed this tool.
After connecting this I sprayed soapy water on all fittings to make sure no leak on them.
04-02-2021, 10:19 PM
Glad it seems to have been sorted out.
Interestingly, after connecting the fuses and firing up the vehicle to refill the air system, after it was complete, it seemed that the rear corners were not perfectly the same height when simply measuring from my garage floor to fender (1/4" difference). Of course tire pressure and other things could be a factor OR my rear struts need replacing.
