It used to be a lot harder to import cars from Canada. Nowadays it a lot easier since they build a lot of our cars there, (my Hellcat was built there) they have to match out emissions, and safety standards. As long as you can get a letter from MB and/or there is a sticker under the hood of the Canadian car that says it meets US EPA and NHTSA standards you are halfway there. For 26k including the Customs, and duties plus local state registration (here in Florida is easy) you can drive a low mile E550 fully optioned.

It takes planning, but can be done.

 

Well said and I agree. Trying to maintain $70K car that's valued under $10K (insurance) is the risk we all take but mostly because we already expense it. I just trying to get a little more return. I would never go buy one at this point of its life cycle. The cost can have you seriously wonder if it was wise. The known defects are troubling. If you add a spouse that's already budget minded pre-acquisition, this sets up for a stress test down the road. Can you hear it now? "HOW MUCH MORE ARE YOU GOING TO PUT IN THAT THING?"
Don't get me wrong, I don't regret my E550. 210K miles with very minor repair work. I perform most maintenance functions. I have a dealership close by for all needs I won't handle. Support is important.

 

Then, there's the scroll knob infront of the arm rest. The shaft inside will break because it's poorly designed with black plastic. Don't bother replacing the assembly (over $300) because it will break too. Without the knob functional, you'll lose full navigation/map capability. A replacement shaft by 3rd party is the sound way to go. DIY. Thanks MB.

 

For this reason I never touch the scroll knob unless I absolutely have to.

 

Replacing the broken shaft is pretty simple and the part is < $20.

 

It really is. I did it TWICE. First, I did the cheapo fix using epoxy and toothpicks. Lasted a year. 2nd time, I bought the 3rd party shaft and has lasted 2 years already. It is easy but like most jobs, having the right tools matter. Videos on this show you how. I found getting the cap off the toughest. Even the second time.

 

huh, i use the scroll knob all the time to control my phone's google maps and spotify via android auto. I mostly just rotate it and click on it, rather than rock it up/down/left/right

 

The rotate part is what breaks, fore/aft/left/right will continue to work.

 

Thanks. I will be less fearful of using it then.

 

Yeah I think I watched some of those videos and didn't want to mess with it.

 

I think people use too much force on it which causes it to break. Mine is still fine and not worried about it. I prefer the steering wheel controls anyway. I think you could just get the used scroll knob on eBay for under $100. Not too hard to take apart. There are several wood trim/center console youtube videos on that. I had that taken apart a while ago to replace some faded wood trim and to fix the spring on the cover.

 

on my car at least, the steering wheel controls select the instrument panel mode and display, while the knob selects the COMAND media center mode, including controlling my phone when it is in Android Auto (or CarPlay) mode.

 

History can be your friend.
Being able to turn a wrench from time-to-time is key to keeping costs reasonable. I will figure out which diagnostic tool will fit my needs and budget.
My high mileage entry experience: After initial hesitation, I have a (new to me) 2014 E550 joining me at 150k+ miles. After reviewing different historical service sources, I arranged a PPI from a local MB dealer knowing the car had not been to this dealer recently. Dealer customer service (to me) was helpful. Auto had an extensive (multi-dealer) MB service history that could be analyzed, even if rudimentary. PPI found:
A bunch of minor things that can be done DIY (e.g. the infamous wiper blades needed, etc
Sway Bar Parts
Wheel Alignment
Oil leak
Several error lights
Developing a respectful dialog with the SA was key for me. I asked the SA -in advance- to have the mechanic look at several issues. The PPI may say to replace an item, but the 'informal' feedback was that certain parts were factory original. Meaning: Its normal time/mileage to replace whatever part was mentioned. Certain error lights were mentioned broadly in PPI (e.g. "lights") , but explained 'informally' when pressed (e.g. running light needs replacement). Certain information the SA (politely) would not provide -VMI, certain service details (why was this part replaced?). I, like many others, completed this process and made my decision without being able to touch the car several states away. Oh yes: Review plenty of pictures AND, of course, read This Forum. Thank you to the many MBWorld forum contributors whose experience I could read. I hope I can return the favor "down the road".

 

Let us know how this goes with your E550. Good to see they can stay alive at 150,000 miles. I’m at 62K

 

I purchased a clean 2012 E350 W212 sport base (no 4matic, no air suspension) with 215555 miles on her for $2650. Senior owner says he drove back and forth from Pennsylvania to Fort Lauderdale. Minor body stuff missing like headlamp washer covers, tow hook cover, broken tail light lens, plenty of stone chips. Clean interior, feeble attempt cover up stone chips, new serpentine belt, nice bottom seat covers. Says it well well maintained. They all say that. Anyhow, it has an intermittent coolant leak coming from hose, I purchased O-ring, updated grill, new tires, wheel, alignment, new taillight, had the spare refurbished.
I am a retired Florida snowbird, this car is parked in 2 car garage, only used for 5-6 months for shopping runs. Fingers crossed, hope it last a couple of years. Hmm should I start a new thread?