E-Class (W212) 2010 - 2016: E 350, E 550
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Old Jun 19, 2022 | 11:27 AM
  #1  
gNasty's Avatar
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From: NC
2012 CLS550
Code help

2012 60,000 m278
So got a PPI done and they told me I had a slight leak at front crank seal.I don't see it myself but I'll take there word on it I told him of a very faint vibration in steering wheel and he said the front motor mounts are aging out. I am getting a leak as pictured but seems like a hose if I had to guess. No driveway puddles. I changed the oil and air filters and car was running/shifting strong . After few days I noticed it was lagging when shifting. Then when I was going down road car started to vibrate not at wheel but under me and in my seat. Only happened when sitting at light then didn't again. Thought it was a flex plate but I don't know. Actual shifting and power is smooth. Finally check engine light came on stating torque converter was overheating. Really need to resolve this it's preventing me from getting my little girl. Should I replace transmission fluid/filter? Just don't want to waste the money on that if I'm going to have to open it back up to replace the computer inside . Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks



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Old Jun 19, 2022 | 11:53 AM
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From: Calverton MD 20705
2013 W212 E350 RWD
I can see it. Once you know what a leak looks like, you'll never want a used car again.

The grimey moist residue and build up is the leak.

Why do you want the car? because it says Mercedes on it? Or do you like the car and how it drives? If you love the car for the love of the car get it and fix it. If you want it for status, stay away, you won't be happy with ownership. Also, if you can't work on cars yourself or are willing to learn, also stay away. Someone atttempted to charge me $3,000 for something I did at home in an hour and a half.
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Old Jun 19, 2022 | 12:07 PM
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I purchased the car about a month ago. I'm wondering if that leak is from front main seal or something else? And more importantly wondering what I need to do about the torque converter overheating. Should I flush it? Flush tranny and filter? Could it be the pump. Was hoping someone could point me in right direction so I don't waste the $ of doing everything.
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Old Jun 19, 2022 | 12:16 PM
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Start with sensor calibration test. Go to the car in the morning and read temperatures with engine off.
All temperature sensors should show the same number +- 3 degrees (temperature sensors lack good accuracy).
Flushing the ATF should help as aging fluid become thicker, - creating higher temperatures.
With motor mount, I figure out 1 wisdom "when in doubt - replace them" . The modern cup-shaped MM don't have long life expectancy
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Old Jun 19, 2022 | 12:24 PM
  #5  
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From: Calverton MD 20705
2013 W212 E350 RWD
Originally Posted by gNasty
I purchased the car about a month ago. I'm wondering if that leak is from front main seal or something else? And more importantly wondering what I need to do about the torque converter overheating. Should I flush it? Flush tranny and filter? Could it be the pump. Was hoping someone could point me in right direction so I don't waste the $ of doing everything.

@S-Prihadi posted this invaluable information for us!

If it's an M278, the M276/8 have an issue with oil weeping. they never leak dramatically, only insidiously. While uncommon, it's entirely possible it's your front main seal, clean it up and watch it. Also, if there's any electrical connectors around where you see the leak, go buy CRC electronic cleaner and examine every wiring connection you can find checking for oil and signs of it, cleaning up as you go, this will buy a considerable amount of time before something bad/annoying happens.

What codes did the car throw?
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Old Jun 19, 2022 | 01:41 PM
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2783-00 torque converter temperature too high.
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Old Jul 5, 2022 | 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by kajtek1
Start with sensor calibration test. Go to the car in the morning and read temperatures with engine off.
All temperature sensors should show the same number +- 3 degrees (temperature sensors lack good accuracy).
Flushing the ATF should help as aging fluid become thicker, - creating higher temperatures.
With motor mount, I figure out 1 wisdom "when in doubt - replace them" . The modern cup-shaped MM don't have long life expectancy
Hey man I flushed transmission and tc and reset the code and nothing has gone off since. That being said car seems to be lacking power still. And on wot I hear a whining noise, could that be incorrect amount of fluid? Icarsoft v3 says it's fine and after flush and aux battery replacement I'm not throwing any codes. Do I need to adapt transmission after the flush? Shifts seem clean except occasional downshift into lower gears when braking. Plugs where replaced almost 10k miles ago (60k+ total) but not coils should I replace them? I will check the sensors in the am. Also do I need to swap/add the check valves on this or am I ok?

Thanks I advance love this car just want it running as smooth as possible exp since I have oe tuner on the way. Sorry for 21 ?s but should I do the split cooling mod or just large heat exchanger? Was looking into water methanol as well just for the cooling purposes because engine has a lot of heat to point where if I keep my window down I can feel it coming through the car.
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