Frelly

Hey all,

Wanted to see whatevers thoughts about a leaky camshaft sensor and solenoid. Got a 15'-16' E550 (4matic) 136Km on it with the notorious camshaft and solenoid sensor leak. So i unplugged all 8 sensors to clean the wires before it gets worse and noted that only the camshaft sensors (3 of them to be exact) have leaked into the wires while the camshaft solenoid are leaking outside and nothing was on the wires when unplugged and cleaned. Now my question, what would you recommend? Should I only change the rubber for all 8 sensors or throw money and change the whole sensor itself even though there is no faulty sensor just oil seepage. Also almost stopped driving the car just scarred from further damage until I get this issue fixed.

chassis

Oil seepage is the failure. Replacing sensors and magnets is the solution to the failure.

Raj1471

+1 on changing out the solenoids and sensors. If you intend to keep the car long term, then it makes sense to do preemptive maintenance. Are pigtails installed currently?

S. Madman

Also please clean that engine bay. You will have a hard time finding leaks with a dirty engine. Search for my posts for what chemicals to use, and what electronics to cover.

Jaybird123

I chose to replace all (sensors and solenoids) on my '14 m278 coupe. The FCP kit included the pigtails for the solenoids, but not for the sensors. Someone on here posted a link for the sensor (only) pigtails on ebay...I need to order those still. I will note, my new sensors already showed fresh oil evident on connectors...so pig tails certainly seem relevant/smart choice.

Here's to hoping your Bank 2 (left) solenoids don't require oil filter housing removal to swap like mine did...that job mega sucks. Mine is still ongoing...

juanmor40

Whatever that connector attaches to, either sensor or magnet is effectively BROKEN/DAMAGED. The oil is seeping through the plastic connector, it is not leaking on the outer edge, or in between the sensor and the engine head or timing covers.

As others have already said:
1 - either replace them (best ALL of them) immediately,
2 - or buy the 8 pigtails3 - or at least use an electronic cleaner while you enjoy driving it this weekend (at your own risk).

and when done, for your own benefit try keeping the engine bay as spotless as you can. If something starts leaking, it will be immediately obvious and it will save you $$$ in the long run.

Frelly

Awesome thanks for the feedback everyone, will surely get the pigtails and replace the sensors cause it seems like a never ending problem no matter how many times these sensors are getting changed. I have already cleaned the wires with electric spray just in case. Also sorry that everyones eyes are burning from my nasty engine bay but I only got it recently from the dealer**** (Honda dealer****) and litrally the condition it was in, but to be fair an intensive rust proofing was done hence why it looks that way. Also the picture was taken prior to cleaning it, will look at what madman recommended and if it works for me! Any tips to keep this car going for 200k+ km maintainance wise? It seems I only read about faults, problems and breakdowns...its horrendous

chassis

@Frelly Do all regular maintenance now, unless you have documentation in your hands that it has been done.

engine oil and filter change
transmission fluid change
engine air filter change
spark plug change : I also suggest ignition coil replacement above 100k miles / 160k km, it makes a difference
cabin filter change
brake fluid change
brake pads and rotors (if needed)
clean the engine bay!

The above projects will get the car into a known condition. You can decide from there if more work is needed.

5Miata10

Timely posts. I replaced the four sensors and the left/passenger side solenoids on my coupe. (I know, wrong group, sorry). The solenoids are blocked on the right/driver side by the oil filter assembly and two bolted hard lines that appear to enter the oil filter assembly. Does anyone know what those two hard lines are? And what might I expect if I disconnect them to gain access?

chassis

This job has been done on your M278 engine and posted on this site. Try some searching in W212, W213, W222 and both W166 sections.

5Miata10

Did you find instructions or video somewhere for the coupe? I have searched and have not had success finding a how-to. I have all but the two solenoids on that side done.

Jaybird123

I have honestly watched soo many videos and read so many posts, hard to point you to a specific one! The sensor and solenoid job is only the tip of the iceberg for me, I'm afraid...I am doing cam chain tensioners and replacing one faulty camshaft adjuster at the same time.

Tips I can share off the top of my head...
1.) use an 8mm ratcheting wrench in place of the E-torx socket in the tighter spots as needed
2.) If you are loosening the oil filter housing, you may require a new oil filter housing gasket. Mine was rather brittle, though I have ~120k miles on my motor. The real problem isn't the gasket though...its the 2 lower bolts needing loosened or removed on bottom right of housing. They are obstructed by the turbo coolant lines...and as many accurately have stated here, those lines have plastic ends that WILL break when you touch them.
3.) Replacing the turbo coolant lines involves a very difficult to access couple of bolts on side of turbo...I've not yet completed this task

The oil cooler lines come off the top of the oil filter housing easily and should not present much if any oil spill mess. That said, I drained my engine oil prior to starting the job, as I will change filter and give fresh oil upon completion.

Hope this helps, apologies for delayed response. I have been removing my water pump, prepping surfaces for new installs, and dreading the turbo line installs. Good times

Finally...if your solenoids on Bank 2 are NOT faulty, AND you don't need to replace cam chain tensioner...I would consider just adding the pigtails and stopping there? If not broke, why fix...right? It's a pretty deep rabbit hole beyond there unfortunately

juanmor40

5Miata10

+1 on the 8mm ratcheting wrench. I have watched every video I can find, but most are of the S class and the oil filter housing is different. That said, I will probably follow your suggestion and install sensor pigtails I ordered off eBay from a post elsewhere on this site. Mine only has 75k miles and there was no oil in the wiring to the solenoids and only a small amount of oil on one of the two sensors on each side. Thanks for your response and good luck with your project!

mercerized

What about the Differential ?

juanmor40

If the budget is not an issue, definitely; otherwise, I would wait for the next oil change. It is supposedly lifetime

jumpman726

Hey guys, does the coolant cooler need to be removed on a W212 2012 E550 sedan in order to replace the camshaft position sensors and magnets?

I contacted an indi shop for an estimate and they included the cost for a coolant flush because they said the coolant cooler needed to be removed for the job.

Is that true?

By the way, I contacted a dealer for an estimate and they wanted $1,900 + tax to replace all 4 cam position sensors and all 4 cam solenoid magnets.

Jaybird123

First, I would want to know what they mean by "coolant cooler"...aka the radiator? Or do they mean the oil cooler, which does involve coolant as well.

If the radiator, the simplest answer would be 'no'...that doesn't need removed for the job mentioned. If oil cooler...it doesn't need removed, but is often leaky and is just below the cam plate and solenoids.

The real question is...why do you need the sensors and solenoids replaced? Sensors are a 5 minute job my kiddo could complete one-handed, so I wouldn't pay anyone to do that. How much less is the dealer quote if that is removed?

3 of 4 solenoids are fairly easily replaced...but the 4th one (on left bank closest to car center) can be a REAL nightmare. That in part led to my water pump, turbo coolant line, OIL COOLER gasket, thermostat/housing, etc replacement...

juanmor40

Perhaps watching someone working on them will answer the question



Let us say, you spent a whole day doing, $900 in parts max, and you can take your significant other for $1000 dinner later

jumpman726

I'm not sure what the indi shop meant by coolant cooler either. I don't think they meant the radiator. Maybe they entered the wrong year or model into their computer and got mixed up. I even asked the service advisor at the dealer if a coolant flush was needed to do the job and he said no. The indi shop wants about half the cost as the dealer, but the indi shop is including the coolant flush, which I'm sure is around $200 alone.

I need to replace all the sensors and solenoids because I just checked the connectors and they are all leaking oil. The cam position sensors have already leaked oil into the wire harness, but the solenoids haven't. (I can see some oil leakage in the bottom of each solenoid connector).

I haven't had any issues or warning lights in my car yet, but I know this problem can be catastrophic if not fixed.

I've been watching a lot of Youtube videos on how to do this and it seems pretty straight forward. The hardest part seems to be the solenoids if they are blocked by another part. I know I won't be able to move the steel pipe on the passenger side at the bottom because I can't even see where the screw is to loosen it and I'm worried about breaking other things.

I think I'm going to replace the cam position sensors myself since they are pretty easy to get to and I may leave the solenoids in and just buy the sacrificial wire harness for each one. The harness is only $7 each at my dealer. Maybe I'll have the indi shop do the solenoids later on.

jumpman726

Thanks. Yeah, I've watched both of those videos along with others. I actually didn't even know about the oil leaking problem until Youtube recommended a video for me of a repair guy talking about the problem with the Mercedes 278 engine. After watching the video I decided to check my car connectors for leaks and I have them, so now I'm trying to decide what to do.

When you replaced your sensors and solenoids did you reuse all of the bolts? Or did you buy new ones? I was planning on just reusing the cam position bolts. I also bought some WD-40 Contact Cleaner to clean the oil from the contacts.

5Miata10

I found oil only in the sensor connectors. But, I ordered a full set of sensors and solenoids. The sensors are easy. No need to pay up to replace them. But, like you, I could only get to the passenger side solenoids without removing more than I wanted. I have a M278 Coupe and both driver side solenoids require removal of the oil filted assembly and cooler lines. On the advice of others, and since the connectors to the solenoids were clean, I replaced what I could and found and bought a set of both sensor and solenoid pigtails. Unless you see wet solenoid connectors, I recommend what I did.

juanmor40

To be honest, I have re-used aluminum bolts on a pinch, but that was taking too many risks to save a few pennies. Those bolts are toys, a bit more torque than specified and your weekend is ruined. Just recall these cars must be re-assembled with a torque meter at hand, no chances unless you like to live on the edge. I broke once a bolt (not on this engine), and it was not fun.

Here is something I ask myself sometimes: "How much difference comparing it (the cost of something) to a tip or a few beers at happy hours?" It is a one-time charge anyways.

jumpman726

So I ordered the position sensors and the sacrificial harnesses for the solenoids, but my Mercedes dealer said the harnesses do not fit my car (2012 E550) based on my VIN. According to the FCP Euro site the harnesses should fit, but the dealer says they don't. The part number is 2711500156.

Has anyone here with a 2012 E 550 installed the sacrificial harnesses on their car?

juanmor40

Dealer is correct, and FCP Euro (unfortunately) do not have them. I directly notice that to FCP Euro via email/you tube since another MBWorld forum member highlighted so in a separate thread

here is what you want

https://www.ebay.com/itm/37459464874...hoCDHwQAvD_BwE