S-Prihadi

If anyone down the road need to do gasket replacement or replacement of the oil cooler itself, here is what to expect.
I take my own sweet time this year, the 9th year..... learning for next year , year 10th components renewal as mid life interval of my target 20 years ownership preventive maintenance.

Since uncommon gasket or parts will need up to 3 months special order, when I do the 10th year big job, I must make sure I must have in hand
gaskets/seals for B and C components which need to be removed just to access A component and what extra tools may need to be made available
by then.

I want to include oil cooler gasket as a 10th year renewal, because it is rubber based.
And I just realized it is not a walk in the park to remove the oil cooler for its gasket replacement.
If I do not replace it and if they cross leak and I get coolant into my engine oil = bye bye my engine.


Here is the actual view of the engine oil cooler which is "encapsulated" by the engine mounting bracket.











So special tranny kind of jack must be made available to support the engine from bottom or use those engine remover hoist kind of support beam to support engiine from the top, using the
lifting hook of the engine, when and if it has to loose its LEFT side engine mounting bracket.


A better view of how engine mounting bracket is attached to the flexible engine mount and how close the turbocharger is, can be seen at RIGHT side Bank 1.
Which I hope its a 100% mirror copy by position to the LEFT side . I removed the alternator sometime last year, so its a nice view for learning.










If turbocharger is removed, 50% of the exhaust system front to middle side has to be removed too.







The HVAC compressor need to be removed too, or else hands has no access. That is guaranteed 100%. Hence aftercooler or minimum its left side aluminum pipe + hoses need to be removed too
or compressor can't be removed out of engine bay.
Going downwards to remove anything as big as HVAC compressor from engine bay is not possible due to the subframe and the steering rack and front stabilizerr bar so tight a space,
so hand access also is very poor if one wants to work the hands from under the engine for oil cooler.





LEFT side Turbo as seen from the top. Nope, your hand can not fit between turbo and the heat-shield aka intermediate firewall







The turbocharger removal : I studied the Utube video of " I DO CARS" on his tear-down of the same engine but from C43 W205, is actually quite friendly to remove, it terms of bolts to loosen.
Only the 4 top bolts need to be removed, the bottom bolts (4) no need to be removed. I do not know what is the name of such design, its like how Front SAM plastic cover has only 2 locks at the front and
the other 2 of its rear ends uses edges which get crow-bar-ded





The one I marked green are what I called : crow-bar-ded













So the more one tighten the top 4 bolts, the 3 bottom edges which is beveled shape.... will slide in/down and compressed itself to those steel bar.
This is a first time I seen exhaust manifold bolt down method done this way.

Usually all 360 degrees flange of an exhaust manifold would use bolts, like below, M276 3.5NA





Anyone here with the same engine ever remove the engine oil cooler ?

Thanks

Rickman30

Ouch, makes me kinda glad I ain't got turbskies.

If you get the Engine Support Beam, you can also use it to hang the engine to remove subframe so as to access oil pan and replace "Plastic" pickup tube/windage tray. and engine oil cooler, like rebuild the front end while already tore down as well as other fun stuff.

Multi task...

S-Prihadi

Yes, the engine oil pump plastic baffle and its o-ring , when to be replaced the metal oil pan assy will be blocked by sub-frame rear cross beam
I will need to get those Engine Lift/Hoist as you mentioned.

W205C43PFL

That is so thorough thanks so much for posting OP.

S-Prihadi

Bad news.........

It seems it will be a very high probability that for oil cooler removal, BANK 2 ( LEFT ) turbo has to be removed too.
Yesterday and today I removed the electric power steering to gain better view and test hand access.

Removing the turbo it self is very possible without engine out, I kept watching I DO CARS youtube video on the C43 same engine as mine.
However he is tearing open an engine already out of the car where the is no firewall or chassis/frame to block his tools or hands.


This LEFT TOP BOLT of engine mount big bracket is not accessible from under the car, I tried.



.
BOROSCOPE IMAGES are the crappy ones



From under the car. With EPS removed.
3 images. Close up - middle distance - from under the car.


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...



Yes, AC compressor must be removed first and foremost and from there PRAY ..... , Turbo does not need to be removed.....but I am betting Turbo need to be removed.

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