E-Class (W212) 2010 - 2016: E 350, E 550

AirMatic Air Spring or Distribution Block?

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Old 10-04-2023, 02:13 PM
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2011 E350 CDI 4Matic, Rover 75, Chevy K2500, 2 motorcycles
AirMatic Air Spring or Distribution Block?

Hi folks,

Last winter my right rear air spring would leak down overnight, but only when pretty cold. Hasn't happened once since last winter. I have a new one to install before winter (one of those Dutch ones). Oh, 2011 E350 CDi Blue Efficiency. Approximately 195,000 kms on her now, I think. I bought her back in January with 166,000 kms.

A month or so ago I found the left rear down in the morning. After some investigating I found that one ONLY leaks down when I leave it with the suspension in Sport mode. Then it can go down in a couple of hours. It never happens in Comfort mode.

So, what do you guys/girls think? Air Spring or something else?

Cheers,
Glenn
Old 10-04-2023, 05:55 PM
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2011 Mercedes E350 4Matic Wagon
Do a search function on "air spring" in this forum and you'll see a thread come up from Octan3 from 6/6/2023...poster Arrie on that thread has the answer to your question as why it only leaks down in Sport mode and not in Comfort mode. The air springs should be replaced in pairs imo...my 2011 S212 would drop the left rear side intermittently when it was at the 100k mile mark on odometer...replaced both rear bags with Arnott air springs with my son's help and it rectified my situation. My guess is that your left rear bag is the culprit and not the valve block.
Old 10-04-2023, 06:52 PM
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Thanks Raj. I'll have a look.

Glenn
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Old 10-06-2023, 06:26 PM
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One quick test on the block is to swap lines on the block with another side that does not leak. If the leak changes to another side then you know you got a leak on the block. If it stays on the same side you may have a bad bag. If you do swap the block (or work on the lines in general) apply a generous amount of Super Lube synthetic oil. The lines can be hard to tighten/loosen, because of the dirt, and drying between the metal caps, and the block. I also grabbed a microfiber towel, and totally cleaned the silicone line on the outside, the compressor, and the big plastic cover. While I was there I replaced the filter that feeds outside air into the compressor.

That filter was nasty.


Wanted to add there is a video out there of a guy cutting into the lines to remove the block. DO NOT CUT THE AIR LINES!!!! Unscrew the metal grommets from the block. As I said use some lube, and let it penetrate. Do not use WD40!! Use Super Lube.

Last edited by S. Madman; 10-06-2023 at 06:30 PM.
Old 10-06-2023, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by S. Madman
One quick test on the block is to swap lines on the block with another side that does not leak. If the leak changes to another side then you know you got a leak on the block. If it stays on the same side you may have a bad bag. If you do swap the block (or work on the lines in general) apply a generous amount of Super Lube synthetic oil. The lines can be hard to tighten/loosen, because of the dirt, and drying between the metal caps, and the block. I also grabbed a microfiber towel, and totally cleaned the silicone line on the outside, the compressor, and the big plastic cover. While I was there I replaced the filter that feeds outside air into the compressor.

That filter was nasty.


Wanted to add there is a video out there of a guy cutting into the lines to remove the block. DO NOT CUT THE AIR LINES!!!! Unscrew the metal grommets from the block. As I said use some lube, and let it penetrate. Do not use WD40!! Use Super Lube.
Excellent info. Thank you!

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