Had the car up on stands today and I found my left front tie rod end to be worn. I have replaced them before using a pickle fork. Just watched a video where the guy hammered the outside of where the tie rod fit into. I am also aware that you can also use a separator tool. Given that this is my Mercedes I want to do it correctly.

What is the correct method?

Also I noticed that the bottom boot of the sway bar link was split and leaking grease but it seems tight. I will be replacing it as well.

Which manufacturer is the OEM?

 

a tie rod end removal tool is the least impact on all the body components, in my opinion. It jacks the tip of the tie rod end from the socket and won't tend to destroy the rubber boot should you want to reuse the end.

 

Depending on the design of the tie rod or ball joint.
I have 2 types of tracker tool. One as shown by Rapid and the other one is this one : https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jonnesway-A...2212798?_ul=BR

I also have few forks sizes, these kind of forks




each has its own use, depending on working space and angle

 

I forgot to add, DO NOT remove completely the nut from ball joint or tie-rod end when using tracker tool.
Keep nut 3-4 threads engaged. When the taper shaft of ball joint or tie-rod end decided to come loose from the tool compression, it can
send the tool flying. Hold the tool well, or you may tie a small string to not allow it to fly away and hit you eye/face...wear eye protection yah.

I done my E400 L shaped ball joint and one of the arm with ball joint end ( caster arm I believe ), the sound the ball joint or tie-rod end
coming loose is loud, like very mettalic CRACK !!!
The wost one was when I did my friend's Toyota 4WD front arms. It was kinda seized. The sound was crazy loud, but my tool did not fly due
to the precaution I took.

Last week I invested in a low power air chipping hammer and a cheap oil-less compressor, for preparation of rear subframe work where
the wheel knuckle removal may need such vibrator device. Damn sound like ****,,,,, the vibrator LOL.
Low cost, all under US$200, China made stuff....


The work duty will be as video below, but size is smaller :




I bought extra round flat head, as I do not need chisel duty, only vibrating duty
https://www.jtcautotools.com/product...-flat-jtc-3331

Mine is the exact copy of this :