replacing brake shoes and rotors
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 28
Likes: 12
2013 e350
replacing brake shoes and rotors
I am going to replace both pads and rotors. My question is I have replaced, honda, my toy, and GM brakes. I normally use a vacuum bleeder connected to bleeder valve on caliper to suck old brake fluid out of lines, is it ok to use this type or will I need buy a special type of pressured bleeder.? Thanks I just figured I would ask before I replaced. Thank you guys for all your help in advance. Have a blessed day.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2018
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From: Jakarta-Indonesia
2014 - W212.065 - E400 ( M276.820, 3 liter Turbo) RWD not Hybrid
The beauty of those pressurized bottle is the auto-filling of the brake fluid reservoir and hence no need to worry of air bubbles introduced in your brake system, when
you are doing the job solo.
Since the cost is low for that Motive brand of pressurized bottle, I suggest go for it.
I have one too.
I usually flush to at least 1 liter first and then use approx 500-700cc more as the true filling up from second bottle.
If no pressurized bottle auto-filling, to do 1.5 to 1.7 liter worth, we need to top up at least 6-7 times manual way. No fun.
you are doing the job solo.
Since the cost is low for that Motive brand of pressurized bottle, I suggest go for it.
I have one too.
I usually flush to at least 1 liter first and then use approx 500-700cc more as the true filling up from second bottle.
If no pressurized bottle auto-filling, to do 1.5 to 1.7 liter worth, we need to top up at least 6-7 times manual way. No fun.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 457
Likes: 151
From: Phoenix, AZ
2016 E350 Sport 2WD
I love the pressurized bleed system, but you still need to carefully watch the fluid level in the bleeder to make sure you don't run out if you are pushing a lot of flushing fluid out. It seems that I usually have a problem with the 3rd wheel (right front), and then find that I have little pedal and then go back and correct that one wheel.
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Do you want to flush the fluid at the same time?
Regardless if I plan full fluid flush, or not, I never push contaminated fluid from brake cylinders up to the ABS module and MC.
Starting the job, I loose the bleeder, put drip pan under and push the cylinder piston (often via old pad), letting the fluid to drip outside.
Just keep rechecking the reservoir lever to avoid air.
For full flush, using BMW cap with hole in it, I build a system who is using spare tire pressure to push 30 psi into MC.
I mean it is not full flush, as not opening ABS with scanner, I still have some fluid trapped there, but so far it works for me with no issues.
Regardless if I plan full fluid flush, or not, I never push contaminated fluid from brake cylinders up to the ABS module and MC.
Starting the job, I loose the bleeder, put drip pan under and push the cylinder piston (often via old pad), letting the fluid to drip outside.
Just keep rechecking the reservoir lever to avoid air.
For full flush, using BMW cap with hole in it, I build a system who is using spare tire pressure to push 30 psi into MC.
I mean it is not full flush, as not opening ABS with scanner, I still have some fluid trapped there, but so far it works for me with no issues.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 6,602
Likes: 6,549
From: Jakarta-Indonesia
2014 - W212.065 - E400 ( M276.820, 3 liter Turbo) RWD not Hybrid
On my E400, there is no special menu even on Xentry to do what other OEM would call ABS bleeding.
However, there is a bi-directional control menu, I forgot the name of it, which actually make ABS pumps rumble.
There is an aftermarket diagnostic tool seller which made a small circuit board or module to fool our ABS into actuation....while on a lift / jacked up all 4 wheels.
I dont know if it will work on our W212 or not, but this is how they do it :
The wheel speed sensors on our W212 is to be all 4 of them disconnected.
We then connect the wires for the sensors to their module, these 4 sets of wires from the module will generate signal of the same type like our wheel sensors and will create a bogus
lock-up condition, so that ABS is then forced to actuate itself. Something like that.
Also to note, our hydraulic brake is a one way fluid flow only, hence a single pipe/hose to all brake calipers and not twin pipe/hose. It is not circulated one like say power steering.
The dirtiest fluid will be the first 50cm of front brake calipers internal pipe, as it work the most....based on my car.
I say dirtiest is not black dirty, but the nice light amber of the MB brake fluid gets a darker yellow from the heat.
If master cylinder brake fluid reservoir in them can get dirty visually, that means the car owner is TRULY DIRTY & LAZY, and the brake fluid reservoir cap or its seal maybe loose too and
allow ambient dust/dirt to enter.
It is to be near invisible clean ( using MB genuine fluid ) when we try to see the brake fluid from side view of the reservoir.
If the reservoir white plastic body has aged and become a tiny bit yellowing, that won't help to see the brake fluid color
However, there is a bi-directional control menu, I forgot the name of it, which actually make ABS pumps rumble.
There is an aftermarket diagnostic tool seller which made a small circuit board or module to fool our ABS into actuation....while on a lift / jacked up all 4 wheels.
I dont know if it will work on our W212 or not, but this is how they do it :
The wheel speed sensors on our W212 is to be all 4 of them disconnected.
We then connect the wires for the sensors to their module, these 4 sets of wires from the module will generate signal of the same type like our wheel sensors and will create a bogus
lock-up condition, so that ABS is then forced to actuate itself. Something like that.
Also to note, our hydraulic brake is a one way fluid flow only, hence a single pipe/hose to all brake calipers and not twin pipe/hose. It is not circulated one like say power steering.
The dirtiest fluid will be the first 50cm of front brake calipers internal pipe, as it work the most....based on my car.
I say dirtiest is not black dirty, but the nice light amber of the MB brake fluid gets a darker yellow from the heat.
If master cylinder brake fluid reservoir in them can get dirty visually, that means the car owner is TRULY DIRTY & LAZY, and the brake fluid reservoir cap or its seal maybe loose too and
allow ambient dust/dirt to enter.
It is to be near invisible clean ( using MB genuine fluid ) when we try to see the brake fluid from side view of the reservoir.
If the reservoir white plastic body has aged and become a tiny bit yellowing, that won't help to see the brake fluid color
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 28
Likes: 12
2013 e350
I do understand the pressurized bottle, I was wondering if any had used the vacuum pump type attached to bleeder valve instead of these guys on utube who spread the calipers pushing used brake fluid back towards the resovoir. I have used the vacuum pump on both my toy. truck and previous GM and infinity. Thanks in advance!
