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I hate interior works. My fingers are not delicate. I always break something..... when doing interior
So I do not want you guys to suffer the same.
I am adding extra detailed points, to AVOID where you may accidentally made the same mistake as I did.
The regular pick tool or hook-pull-tool we can buy is too wide for this use. Mercedes original tool is the best size and has a good T shaped handle/grip.
The middle picture is the P/N for MB original tool.
I can't wait too long, so I DIY my own.
Observe why MB original tool is designed as such. The real P/N for tool is W if using EPC, so W140 589 02 33 00 anytime yous see 589 as 6th to 8th digit ( W not included ), that meant it is MB special tool. https://classicparts.mbusa.com/oem-p...k-140589023300
My own DIY version.
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The best is the straight 90 degrees L and bend it a bit to make it a hook. Hook version from standard pick tool is too wide.
Dimension below in MM , millimeters.
Watch the video first and continue reading :
The most fragile location is at the most LEFT and the most RIGHT pull hole of the vents.
My car is RHD - Right Hand Drive.
The parallel blade for UP and DOWN is small and can be accidentally knocked out of its position if you are not careful.
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I accidentally knocked my parallel blade out of its position , at passenger side ( LEFT ) vent.
Passenger side vent complete assy with the wood veneer cladding is long, sharing with 2 of middle vents. Driver side vent near the door is a small single vent.
The parallel blade is steel, springy type, I have not managed to re-install mine. It is crazy difficult from outside the vent to put it back, the working space is too small. Next time I will do it.
It is designed to be installed in tension mode on purpose to keep the blade there, the middle louver is offset a bit, thus making the parallel blade in tension.
So please test your hook-pull-tool slowly and carefully with good light, otherwise you may miss the BLACK louvers parallel blade against internal black plastic of the vent and knocked the blade off its position.
By the time you test your hook pull tool, you will realize specific to the very LEFT and RIGHT side pull holes, a slim and not wide hook-pull-tool is the suitable one,
you can maneuver it easier.
SPRING LOCK at both the most LEFT and RIGHT vents. 4 springs are used. Be gentle and align the vents Left and Right properly first before pushing in ( when re-installing ).
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I am repeating again : Be gentle and align the vents Left and Right properly first before pushing in ( when re-installing ).
.....because there are other lock/latch involved.
It will be wise when pulling out the middle vents which its end is at the instrument cluster, assist that lock-latch using plastic pry tool.
See below the lock-latch engagement point.
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Driver side, small single vent.
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MB video for middle vents, the locking wing is not the same as mine.
So I can not follow MB way of pulling the wing inward, I need to twist it inward.
Here is why MB tool the diameter for its steel rod is small, because of the middle vents working gap at the locking wing.
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The DUMB AZZ locking mechanism. I hate this one.
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My 1st lock, passenger side has issue.
It can lock well, but the freakin' steel lock make noises.
I think the plastic "dick" got worn out for reason unknown.
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I use 2mm + 1mm PU sheet and make it tight. No more noise.
I wonder how in the hell a steel locking mechanism is held by soft hairy fabric and we expected the hairy fabric to last more than 2-3 times operation and still maintain
good friction ???? I dont even know what happen to mine actually.
At first when I pulled down the steel plate, it did not come down as much as photo below when the vents + wood veneer cladding are already removed.
I dare not pull too hard as I do not know yet the actual design.
It was like half down only and as the tension on the lock get reduced as I was pulling out the vents assy, it then can go down maximum .
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Instrument cluster plastic hood & its veneer cladding, which is removable
Watch the video well, this instrument cluster plastic hood must be removed top side first and then the lower part is to be done carefully too.
The opening sequence what is to be removed first, watch the video. These things are interlocking. So the removing sequence is important.
Its top side "lock" mechanism.
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The hood interlock with the instrument cluster itself.
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Make sure you work in good light.
Black small sized component on black background is no fun for me old eyes, my eyes is not too good when doing close up, even with bright lights.