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01. Is the rubber/plastic seal to make sure water does not enter the locker/mounting hole at car body.
02. Full solid material. The true LOAD zone.
03. As seen, not solid material. To save weight. I would not want to load the car weight at #3.
The cavity at the car body holding the jack pad.
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The damage profile when pressure/load is applied at the wrong location on the jack pad.
See the "expanded" body, squeezed at the wrong load point.
The correct and the safest LOAD point/zone in green rectangular.
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WHAT IF scenario
During rain and decent high speed, the FRONT jack pads would be experiencing water jet splash from the tires.
If country with winter salt, perhaps more worry for you guys.
It would be wise the jack pad sealing system is still good. Good thing the cavity at the car body has some sort of spray deflector.
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The jack pad mounting location is part of the car chassis where water may linger and that is not good. The rear subframe died from corrosion.
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The location of the front jack pad mounting holes are close to where the CAN BUS distribution bar is at Left and Right side of the car.
I wonder if a failed seal of the jack pad and hours of water jet spray from tires, can water actually enter the cabin a bit ?
On my old Toyota Starlet 1.0 , in early 90s, I love wading in flood up to few inches above my door seal and water will enter the cabin and wet my interior carpet big time, I don't care, the car is so simple FWD and no electronic modules.
The wading height limit was up to my alternator light being ON from loss of charging. The alternator was higher than engine main pulley..I will get clutch shudder, because water wet the clutch
The retired trio.
Okey dokey, go and inspect your jack pads boys....
One of mine was smashed when I bought the car due to improper jacking by a grease monkey. If these are damaged the Mercedes emergency jack may not fit properly/safely. But they are cheap/easy to replace.
When I use a car jack, I use one of those hard rubber pads with the rectangular part that fits in the car’s jack pad. With the Quickjack, I use metal versions of those pads resting on 5/8” plywood in the Quickjack trays. Of course, the Quickjack presents other problems for my 2013 E350 sport sedan. I had to make four small “drive-on” ramps out of 5/8” plywood so that the car is high enough for the QJ and pads to get underneath!
Last edited by strife; Dec 12, 2024 at 08:30 AM.
Reason: Can’t spell, type
Wow, did you lower your car a lot ? The 2013 E350 sport sedan.
Using Quick Jack thickest rubber pad, and my improved jack pad adapter of approx 30mm thickness, I can clear my car height clearance, barely but can.
When I bought the Quick Jack long time ago, it came only with 4 a bit slimmer rubber pads and 4 of the thicker rubber pads as accessories.
Mine is the BL-5000EXT.
The side skirt to floor clearance is approx 14cm on my car. The Jack Pad on the car is approx 1.5 cm lower, so I still get approx 12.5cm clearance of near 5 inches.
Wow, did you lower your car a lot ? The 2013 E350 sport sedan.
Using Quick Jack thickest rubber pad, and my improved jack pad adapter of approx 30mm thickness, I can clear my car height clearance, barely but can.
When I bought the Quick Jack long time ago, it came only with 4 a bit slimmer rubber pads and 4 of the thicker rubber pads as accessories.
Mine is the BL-5000EXT.
The side skirt to floor clearance is approx 14cm on my car. The Jack Pad on the car is approx 1.5 cm lower, so I still get approx 12.5cm clearance of near 5 inches.
i had originally bought the BL-5000 for my W107 560SL, but later needed the extender bars for the w212. The extender bars add height, unfortunately.
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