2014 E350 - Transfer Case - Clutch Pack issue - "Reset" hack?
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2014 E350
2014 E350 - Transfer Case - Clutch Pack issue - "Reset" hack?
Greetings fellow 212er’s. I have an issue with an internal fault of the clutch pack inside my transfer case.
I should have copied the information down but somebody had said there is a hack that you can perform to fix this problem period it resets the clutch pack apparently. It goes like this :\
sort of I don't know exactly and that's why I need to know if someone has the information.
**With the back wheels locked with the parking brake on a lift, engage the car in drive and bring the RPMs to 800. You do this for a minute or so and then in reverse for about the same time and at 1000 RPM's. That is not it exactly but it is something very similar to this.
Does anybody know this trick? I thought I saw it on one of the forums but we'll have to go back and look I've been reaching out to try and find a solution to my issue.
Thanks in advance
Tommy
I should have copied the information down but somebody had said there is a hack that you can perform to fix this problem period it resets the clutch pack apparently. It goes like this :\
sort of I don't know exactly and that's why I need to know if someone has the information.
**With the back wheels locked with the parking brake on a lift, engage the car in drive and bring the RPMs to 800. You do this for a minute or so and then in reverse for about the same time and at 1000 RPM's. That is not it exactly but it is something very similar to this.
Does anybody know this trick? I thought I saw it on one of the forums but we'll have to go back and look I've been reaching out to try and find a solution to my issue.
Thanks in advance
Tommy
Last edited by Tommy23B; Mar 12, 2025 at 06:50 PM. Reason: missing word in title
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Greetings fellow 212er’s. I have an issue with an internal fault of the clutch pack inside my transfer case.
I should have copied the information down but somebody had said there is a hack that you can perform to fix this problem period it resets the clutch pack apparently. It goes like this :\
sort of I don't know exactly and that's why I need to know if someone has the information.
**With the back wheels locked with the parking brake on a lift, engage the car in drive and bring the RPMs to 800. You do this for a minute or so and then in reverse for about the same time and at 1000 RPM's. That is not it exactly but it is something very similar to this.
Does anybody know this trick? I thought I saw it on one of the forums but we'll have to go back and look I've been reaching out to try and find a solution to my issue.
Thanks in advance
Tommy
I should have copied the information down but somebody had said there is a hack that you can perform to fix this problem period it resets the clutch pack apparently. It goes like this :\
sort of I don't know exactly and that's why I need to know if someone has the information.
**With the back wheels locked with the parking brake on a lift, engage the car in drive and bring the RPMs to 800. You do this for a minute or so and then in reverse for about the same time and at 1000 RPM's. That is not it exactly but it is something very similar to this.
Does anybody know this trick? I thought I saw it on one of the forums but we'll have to go back and look I've been reaching out to try and find a solution to my issue.
Thanks in advance
Tommy
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 5,141
Likes: 1,293
From: Southern US
2010 E550, 273 Engine: 2012 S550, 278 Engine
Greetings fellow 212er’s. I have an issue with an internal fault of the clutch pack inside my transfer case.
I should have copied the information down but somebody had said there is a hack that you can perform to fix this problem period it resets the clutch pack apparently. It goes like this :\
sort of I don't know exactly and that's why I need to know if someone has the information.
**With the back wheels locked with the parking brake on a lift, engage the car in drive and bring the RPMs to 800. You do this for a minute or so and then in reverse for about the same time and at 1000 RPM's. That is not it exactly but it is something very similar to this.
Does anybody know this trick? I thought I saw it on one of the forums but we'll have to go back and look I've been reaching out to try and find a solution to my issue.
Thanks in advance
Tommy
I should have copied the information down but somebody had said there is a hack that you can perform to fix this problem period it resets the clutch pack apparently. It goes like this :\
sort of I don't know exactly and that's why I need to know if someone has the information.
**With the back wheels locked with the parking brake on a lift, engage the car in drive and bring the RPMs to 800. You do this for a minute or so and then in reverse for about the same time and at 1000 RPM's. That is not it exactly but it is something very similar to this.
Does anybody know this trick? I thought I saw it on one of the forums but we'll have to go back and look I've been reaching out to try and find a solution to my issue.
Thanks in advance
Tommy
I have learned from these forums that it is either planetary gear bearing problem or the lock disk problem.
Lock disk is like a spring-loaded clutch that holds between the front and rear axles. This is why MB does not recommend staggered tire setup on 4-Matic as speed difference between the axles makes this lock disk move and wear it out.
The trick you are talking about is to give some wear on the lock disk so it does not grip that well. It can help if the disk surfaces have become "sticky" just to clean them up but I would not go running the reat wheels locked for too much, so the lock disk does not wear out too much. I would just give it a few seconds with 800-1000 rpm using 1st gear and then go test it for the sharp turns if that is the problem. Then repeat a few times and see if it helps.,
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Joined: Sep 2022
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2014 E350
So your problem is car jerks/shakes when you make sharp turns like on parking lots, right?
I have learned from these forums that it is either planetary gear bearing problem or the lock disk problem.
Lock disk is like a spring-loaded clutch that holds between the front and rear axles. This is why MB does not recommend staggered tire setup on 4-Matic as speed difference between the axles makes this lock disk move and wear it out.
The trick you are talking about is to give some wear on the lock disk so it does not grip that well. It can help if the disk surfaces have become "sticky" just to clean them up but I would not go running the reat wheels locked for too much, so the lock disk does not wear out too much. I would just give it a few seconds with 800-1000 rpm using 1st gear and then go test it for the sharp turns if that is the problem. Then repeat a few times and see if it helps.,
I have learned from these forums that it is either planetary gear bearing problem or the lock disk problem.
Lock disk is like a spring-loaded clutch that holds between the front and rear axles. This is why MB does not recommend staggered tire setup on 4-Matic as speed difference between the axles makes this lock disk move and wear it out.
The trick you are talking about is to give some wear on the lock disk so it does not grip that well. It can help if the disk surfaces have become "sticky" just to clean them up but I would not go running the reat wheels locked for too much, so the lock disk does not wear out too much. I would just give it a few seconds with 800-1000 rpm using 1st gear and then go test it for the sharp turns if that is the problem. Then repeat a few times and see if it helps.,
But I do want to be clear that the symptom is that yes in tight turns more than 50% of a wheel turn I get a straining and a shake not violent but you know something's going on. Another individual indicated it would be the planetary gear and they provided the information which I stupidly did not copy down and cannot seem to find so I appreciate you providing it. I'll be honest with you I am not mechanically inclined in this manner and and not to certain of what you're saying in terms of the lock disk and disc surfaces being sticky or getting cleaned up. I do and can follow the instructions of a few seconds with 800 to 1000 RPMS in first gear. Check it and if it's still there repeat a few more times. But I also want to clarify that I would put it on a lift just so the wheels are off the ground and lock the back wheels with the parking brake, put it in drive in first gear for a few seconds between 800 and 1000 RPMS.
The other person indicated I'd also do this in reverse. Will that help or should I avoid doing this procedure in reverse?
I really appreciate your help here Arrie. My cell phone is 703-909-2959 if you feel would be easier to talk.
Cheers!
Tom
Last edited by Tommy23B; Mar 15, 2025 at 06:16 PM.
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Joined: May 2012
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From: Pepper Pike Ohio
24 GLS580 '23 E450 4matic 12 E350 4Matic
I don't remember the procedure exactly, which is why I didn't respond, but Yes, it's something close to what you described and I remeber reading on this forum it worked out great for those that tried it, I also remember it being drive and reverse though.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 5,141
Likes: 1,293
From: Southern US
2010 E550, 273 Engine: 2012 S550, 278 Engine
Arrie:Thank you very much for your response. A couple of things: 1 is that I have asked the service writer at the MB dealership to expand on the idea that this was a “fault code” and do they know if actually something is broken or unrepairable? I haven't gotten a response yet but I need to figure that out. And two I'm guessing these types of remedies that you have provided they don't like because if it does fix it they're not getting my $3200.
But I do want to be clear that the symptom is that yes in tight turns more than 50% of a wheel turn I get a straining and a shake not violent but you know something's going on. Another individual indicated it would be the planetary gear and they provided the information which I stupidly did not copy down and cannot seem to find so I appreciate you providing it. I'll be honest with you I am not mechanically inclined in this manner and and not to certain of what you're saying in terms of the lock disk and disc surfaces being sticky or getting cleaned up. I do and can follow the instructions of a few seconds with 800 to 1000 RPMS in first gear. Check it and if it's still there repeat a few more times. But I also want to clarify that I would put it on a lift just so the wheels are off the ground and lock the back wheels with the parking brake, put it in drive in first gear for a few seconds between 800 and 1000 RPMS.
The other person indicated I'd also do this in reverse. Will that help or should I avoid doing this procedure in reverse?
I really appreciate your help here Arrie. My cell phone is 703-909-2959 if you feel would be easier to talk.
Cheers!
Tom
But I do want to be clear that the symptom is that yes in tight turns more than 50% of a wheel turn I get a straining and a shake not violent but you know something's going on. Another individual indicated it would be the planetary gear and they provided the information which I stupidly did not copy down and cannot seem to find so I appreciate you providing it. I'll be honest with you I am not mechanically inclined in this manner and and not to certain of what you're saying in terms of the lock disk and disc surfaces being sticky or getting cleaned up. I do and can follow the instructions of a few seconds with 800 to 1000 RPMS in first gear. Check it and if it's still there repeat a few more times. But I also want to clarify that I would put it on a lift just so the wheels are off the ground and lock the back wheels with the parking brake, put it in drive in first gear for a few seconds between 800 and 1000 RPMS.
The other person indicated I'd also do this in reverse. Will that help or should I avoid doing this procedure in reverse?
I really appreciate your help here Arrie. My cell phone is 703-909-2959 if you feel would be easier to talk.
Cheers!
Tom
This locking disk does the seme between axles as differential locking does in the differential to make sure both wheels in the same axle pull the car when on slippery surface.
When you make sharp turns you create big speed difference between axles as the front wheel travel much longer distance. This means the transfer case must allow the speed difference happen, i.e., the locking disk must slide, if it doesn't then either the front or rear wheels slide against road.
What you feel is this sliding of the locking disk "jerking". All the parts of the power train act as springs. Yes, they are strong but still everything flex and this allows the locking disk to do like "stick-and-slip" so it makes components vibrate.
Cleaning up the disk surfaces by the method you are talking about can really work and if I had your car and the problem is severe enough to consider $3200 job why not? What do you have to lose?
Mercedes used to advertise this locking disk with I think was "10Nm" torque, which means nothing as the whole construction needs to be looked at to understand what it really means but I guess it sound very technical for people who know nothing about it.
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Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 72
Likes: 32
From: Maryland
2023 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4XE, 2012 E550 4Matic
So your problem is car jerks/shakes when you make sharp turns like on parking lots, right?
I have learned from these forums that it is either planetary gear bearing problem or the lock disk problem.
Lock disk is like a spring-loaded clutch that holds between the front and rear axles. This is why MB does not recommend staggered tire setup on 4-Matic as speed difference between the axles makes this lock disk move and wear it out.
The trick you are talking about is to give some wear on the lock disk so it does not grip that well. It can help if the disk surfaces have become "sticky" just to clean them up but I would not go running the reat wheels locked for too much, so the lock disk does not wear out too much. I would just give it a few seconds with 800-1000 rpm using 1st gear and then go test it for the sharp turns if that is the problem. Then repeat a few times and see if it helps.,
I have learned from these forums that it is either planetary gear bearing problem or the lock disk problem.
Lock disk is like a spring-loaded clutch that holds between the front and rear axles. This is why MB does not recommend staggered tire setup on 4-Matic as speed difference between the axles makes this lock disk move and wear it out.
The trick you are talking about is to give some wear on the lock disk so it does not grip that well. It can help if the disk surfaces have become "sticky" just to clean them up but I would not go running the reat wheels locked for too much, so the lock disk does not wear out too much. I would just give it a few seconds with 800-1000 rpm using 1st gear and then go test it for the sharp turns if that is the problem. Then repeat a few times and see if it helps.,
Anyway, yesterday was the first time I really had the car out on the highway for an extended drive at a decent speed (75-80 mph). I felt a little bit of that resistance at highway speed, then it went away. When I got home and turned into my driveway, I no longer had that resistance from the steering wheel. Went for a drive today and it still appears gone. So, for once, I caught a break! Maybe just driving a good distance at a higher speed was enough to loosen those discs or wear away a little material.
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