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Oh, nice info thanks.
Plastic frame. I think my car being facelift the plastic frame is big and shared with aftercooler + tranny oil cooler too...and the condenser,I think so.
I have not done any teardown except for M4/7 radiator fan, which its clip rest on radiator plastic frame.
Thanks for sharing. BTW, i am going to recharge my ac system, do you know the manifold and the three lines (1/4" adopator and 6' long) will hold how much refrigerant (by weight) in about 28 degree C? So that i could refill it accurately.....
Thanks.
Thanks for sharing. BTW, i am going to recharge my ac system, do you know the manifold and the three lines (1/4" adopator and 6' long) will hold how much refrigerant (by weight) in about 28 degree C? So that i could refill it accurately.....
Thanks.
Are u using 30 lbs R134a bottle or baby 300ish grams cannister ?
Here is the formula for the R134A in the hoses.
.
.
I never use baby cannister R134a, always 30 lbs bottle and direct hose to HP port in liquid form.... without manifold.
I stop using manifold now as they are restriction and waste of R134A and hoses are prone to contamination and pressure drop.
.
Zero-ded with hose already filled with liquid R134a.
.
I use short hose. Target is 1,000 grams +-20 grams allowed.
I stop at 982 grams, because the hose already has some liquid R134A before scale zero-ded.
Final measurement is I always weight the R134a bottle before and after every charge, to see actual output and calculate some loss on purging etc etc.
R134a when flipped valve down = LIQUID out
R134a when valve up = Gas/Vapor out.
DOT only allows maximum 80% filling by volume of R134a in a cannister/vessel/bottle.
20% is for expansion. In R134A bottle, R134A is in liquid and gas state combined.
Liquid R134A purging to remove ambient air from hose to R134A coupler, will waste approx 2-3 grams when done right.
Fill at HP port if liquid form R134A, fill vapor form R134A when topping up final grams into LP port.
Best you warm up the r134a bottle a tiny bit by extra say 10C hotter, as there are times you can't fill to target 590 grams ( assumed 590 grams ) in liquid form into
the car HVAC because the car side get warmer than the 30 lbs bottle before target grams achieved.
Car side HVAC piping get compression when being filled with liquid R134A = hotter, 30 lbs bottle get de-compression when discharging liquid r134A = Colder.
Thus shortage of like 30-40 grams can happen because we rely on simple transfer only, depending on temperature of car engine bay vs R134a bottle/cannister.
If say shortage of up to 100 grams, no worry, run the HVAC with engine ON, the LP side will be at 30PSI, your R134A bottle/cannister is still at 92 psi approx at 28C.
Since this final top up is R134A in vapor form, you do not need to worry of under or over charging as its value in grams per 6 footer hose of 1/4 is so little, only 2 ish grams.
The difficult part in using scale while a hose is attached to it is : hose movement will cause reading to change as the scale is 2 grams accuracy.
So make sure the load/weight of the hose on the cannister/bottle while on the scale is to be "locked" no movement.
If you have a table, the R134a cannister/bottle is to at the table and not on the car.... vibration also throws off the scale reading.
Play with it before you start charging/filling the car HVAC with R134A, you will understand what I mean by the scale sensitivity.
If you are using small 300 ish grams R134a in baby cannister, weight it with cheap but accurate Tanita 2,000 grams kitchen scale while full and empty.
Thus you know its actual grams weight of r134a and what is the baby cannister weight itself.
Tanita 2,000 grams is so cheap yet 1 grams accurate, amazing.
Good luck and update us yah.
Last edited by S-Prihadi; Jun 15, 2025 at 01:48 AM.
Reason: add info
Are u using 30 lbs R134a bottle or baby 300ish grams cannister ?
Here is the formula for the R134A in the hoses.
.
.
I never use baby cannister R134a, always 30 lbs bottle and direct hose to HP port in liquid form.... without manifold.
I stop using manifold now as they are restriction and waste of R134A and hoses are prone to contamination and pressure drop.
.
Zero-ded with hose already filled with liquid R134a.
.
I use short hose. Target is 1,000 grams +-20 grams allowed.
I stop at 982 grams, because the hose already has some liquid R134A before scale zero-ded.
Final measurement is I always weight the R134a bottle before and after every charge, to see actual output and calculate some loss on purging etc etc.
R134a when flipped valve down = LIQUID out
R134a when valve up = Gas/Vapor out.
DOT only allows maximum 80% filling by volume of R134a in a cannister/vessel/bottle.
20% is for expansion. In R134A bottle, R134A is in liquid and gas state combined.
Liquid R134A purging to remove ambient air from hose to R134A coupler, will waste approx 2-3 grams when done right.
Fill at HP port if liquid form R134A, fill vapor form R134A when topping up final grams into LP port.
Best you warm up the r134a bottle a tiny bit by extra say 10C hotter, as there are times you can't fill to target 590 grams ( assumed 590 grams ) in liquid form into
the car HVAC because the car side get warmer than the 30 lbs bottle before target grams achieved.
Car side HVAC piping get compression when being filled with liquid R134A = hotter, 30 lbs bottle get de-compression when discharging liquid r134A = Colder.
Thus shortage of like 30-40 grams can happen because we rely on simple transfer only, depending on temperature of car engine bay vs R134a bottle/cannister.
If say shortage of up to 100 grams, no worry, run the HVAC with engine ON, the LP side will be at 30PSI, your R134A bottle/cannister is still at 92 psi approx at 28C.
Since this final top up is R134A in vapor form, you do not need to worry of under or over charging as its value in grams per 6 footer hose of 1/4 is so little, only 2 ish grams.
The difficult part in using scale while a hose is attached to it is : hose movement will cause reading to change as the scale is 2 grams accuracy.
So make sure the load/weight of the hose on the cannister/bottle while on the scale is to be "locked" no movement.
If you have a table, the R134a cannister/bottle is to at the table and not on the car.... vibration also throws off the scale reading.
Play with it before you start charging/filling the car HVAC with R134A, you will understand what I mean by the scale sensitivity.
If you are using small 300 ish grams R134a in baby cannister, weight it with cheap but accurate Tanita 2,000 grams kitchen scale while full and empty.
Thus you know its actual grams weight of r134a and what is the baby cannister weight itself.
Tanita 2,000 grams is so cheap yet 1 grams accurate, amazing.
Good luck and update us yah.
I will use baby cannister. Cheap and simple. You are so resourceful and professional. Thanks so much.
Here is an example of R134A in liquid form weight, in a hose, just yesterday.
Long story on how an ML400 is done by me. Go to FAKE DENSO compressor thread.
Anyway.......
I will explain my notes below :
I charged the ML400 at 1,042 grams. Its spec called for 1,050 grams.
Total spending is 1,094 grams
minus 1,042 into the ML400
minus 5 grams lost in purging yada yada
= hose contained 47 grams approx. It is 4 feet long.
Virgin 30 lbs bottle
The so called Appion CRT is Core-Removal-Tool, which I used as a stop valve at the beginning of the charging hose ( can't see if I flip tank upside down ).
That weight thus measured by the scale as additional 124 grams, making total 16,194 grams
.
ABOVE : The hose weight itself, part of it is contributing to extra weight measured by the scale, extra 34 grams. Making it 16,228 grams below.
I then filled the hose with liquid r134A and purge ( max 5 grams) the connection at HP port, making loss of 68 grams because the weight of some R134A has migrated into the hose which is supported
by the car and no more at the tank/scale itself. Thus weight drop to 16,160 grams, from previous 16,228 grams.
I have another Appion CRT stop valve at the end of the hose at HP side.
The 48" , 4 feet hose below is from Yellow Jacket and has stop valve too.
You will wonder what is that small plastic bag doing at the YJ hose ? Its a reminder that I removed ( kept it in that plastic bag ) that I removed the core depressor stud/screw.
.
Yellow Jacket hose is very good. This little 1/4" can do down to 75 microns, no bullsh-iet, but of course it is very slow.
Regular refrigerant hose can not go better than 250 microns, as they do not have the vacuum rated coating like YJ hose.
TIPS :
Removing valve core depressor stud/screw will speed up vacuuming process by much. This thing is a restriction, big time.
But if you forgotten that you have it removed, using it where the mating valve has valve core needing to be pressed..... you will wonder why no flow ? LOL.
Example nitrogen injection into Appion Tee side fitting where there is still valve core installed because it is for pressure or micron reading.
King of vacuum hose is still the 3/4" Tru-Blu. Best money spent on a vacuum hose is Tru-Blu. No valve core depressor at all for sure and big bore at its 1/4" end.
Its vacuum pump end is 3/8" or you can use the 3/4" one, the kit is complete. But my vacuum pump biggest port is only 3/8".
5 hours on a wet system, with twice nitrogen purged, I can get honest 534 microns.
Honest 500 microns means the Micron gauge is at HP side and vacuum hose at LP side. This is how micron gauge placement is supposed to be done, 100% system coverage end to end reading and micron
gauge reading at the most "wet" location.
If using manifold, we get cheated by so low a vacuum reading because you are reading the manifold, not the car refrigerant pipes/system furthest end,
that is why I told you to do 24 hours on your car. 1/4" hose regular non-vacuum rated one can probably get you honest 500 microns but 24 hours vacuuming is expected.
June 15, 11:59AM I started the vacuum pump.
.
This is a "wet" system. This car HVAC is poorly maintained, 1 hour 14 minutes later at 1:14PM, stuck at 638 microns
.
I did a first nitrogen sweep by 1:18PM
.
By 3PM, I could get only 558 microns.
.
.
.
2nd nitrogen sweep/purge by 3:14PM
.
By 4:49PM only down to 524 microns. My target is 5PM I stop vacuuming. Stop vacuum pump, shut off the valve at LP port ( vacuum port ).
===================
Vacuum decay test in progress: 4:52 PM
.
The decay rate is slow enough, not bad. DONE.
.
Last edited by S-Prihadi; Jun 15, 2025 at 10:12 PM.
Here is an example of R134A in liquid form weight, in a hose, just yesterday.
Long story on how an ML400 is done by me. Go to FAKE DENSO compressor thread.
Anyway.......
I will explain my notes below :
I charged the ML400 at 1,042 grams. Its spec called for 1,050 grams.
Total spending is 1,094 grams
minus 1,042 into the ML400
minus 5 grams lost in purging yada yada
= hose contained 47 grams approx. It is 4 feet long.
Virgin 30 lbs bottle
The so called Appion CRT is Core-Removal-Tool, which I used as a stop valve at the beginning of the charging hose ( can't see if I flip tank upside down ).
That weight thus measured by the scale as additional 124 grams, making total 16,194 grams
.
ABOVE : The hose weight itself, part of it is contributing to extra weight measured by the scale, extra 34 grams. Making it 16,228 grams below.
I then filled the hose with liquid r134A and purge ( max 5 grams) the connection at HP port, making loss of 68 grams because the weight of some R134A has migrated into the hose which is supported
by the car and no more at the tank/scale itself. Thus weight drop to 16,160 grams, from previous 16,228 grams.
I have another Appion CRT stop valve at the end of the hose at HP side.
The 48" , 4 feet hose below is from Yellow Jacket and has stop valve too.
You will wonder what is that small plastic bag doing at the YJ hose ? Its a reminder that I removed ( kept it in that plastic bag ) that I removed the core depressor stud/screw.
.
Yellow Jacket hose is very good. This little 1/4" can do down to 75 microns, no bullsh-iet, but of course it is very slow.
Regular refrigerant hose can not go better than 250 microns, as they do not have the vacuum rated coating like YJ hose.
TIPS :
Removing valve core depressor stud/screw will speed up vacuuming process by much. This thing is a restriction, big time.
But if you forgotten that you have it removed, using it where the mating valve has valve core needing to be pressed..... you will wonder why no flow ? LOL.
Example nitrogen injection into Appion Tee side fitting where there is still valve core installed because it is for pressure or micron reading.
King of vacuum hose is still the 3/4" Tru-Blu. Best money spent on a vacuum hose is Tru-Blu. No valve core depressor at all for sure and big bore at its 1/4" end.
Its vacuum pump end is 3/8" or you can use the 3/4" one, the kit is complete. But my vacuum pump biggest port is only 3/8".
5 hours on a wet system, with twice nitrogen purged, I can get honest 534 microns.
Honest 500 microns means the Micron gauge is at HP side and vacuum hose at LP side. This is how micron gauge placement is supposed to be done, 100% system coverage end to end reading and micron
gauge reading at the most "wet" location.
If using manifold, we get cheated by so low a vacuum reading because you are reading the manifold, not the car refrigerant pipes/system furthest end,
that is why I told you to do 24 hours on your car. 1/4" hose regular non-vacuum rated one can probably get you honest 500 microns but 24 hours vacuuming is expected.
June 15, 11:59AM I started the vacuum pump.
.
This is a "wet" system. This car HVAC is poorly maintained, 1 hour 14 minutes later at 1:14PM, stuck at 638 microns
.
I did a first nitrogen sweep by 1:18PM
.
By 3PM, I could get only 558 microns.
.
.
.
2nd nitrogen sweep/purge by 3:14PM
.
By 4:49PM only down to 524 microns. My target is 5PM I stop vacuuming. Stop vacuum pump, shut off the valve at LP port ( vacuum port ).
===================
Vacuum decay test in progress: 4:52 PM
.
The decay rate is slow enough, not bad. DONE.
.
Expert way
While i am using baby cannister, a manifold set and a kitchen digital scale to refill, do you think i could first fill in HP side in liquid form (upside down the cannister) until around 400 grams filled and then flip the cannister back to upside up in order to let the vapor form to push the liquid in the systen and also filled up the line. After that, I can shut off the HP value (ignore the weight of refrigerant in the HP line) and fill the remaining amount in LP port in vapor form?
I am not sure is it ok or not, as this will be the first time I do the total refill to a vacuumed system.
Good news to share..... my system seems to be leak free as the vaccum decay reading is only from -970 mbar to -962 mbar in 16 hours.
Thanks.
Expert way
While i am using baby cannister, a manifold set and a kitchen digital scale to refill, do you think i could first fill in HP side in liquid form (upside down the cannister) until around 400 grams filled and then flip the cannister back to upside up in order to let the vapor form to push the liquid in the systen and also filled up the line. After that, I can shut off the HP value (ignore the weight of refrigerant in the HP line) and fill the remaining amount in LP port in vapor form?
I am not sure is it ok or not, as this will be the first time I do the total refill to a vacuumed system.
Good news to share..... my system seems to be leak free as the vaccum decay reading is only from -970 mbar to -962 mbar in 16 hours.
Thanks.
Both the liquid and vapor form of R134A has the same pressure., therefore you can not do below : do you think i could first fill in HP side in liquid form (upside down the cannister) until around 400 grams filled and then flip the cannister back to upside up in order to let the vapor form to push the liquid in the systen and also filled up the line.
Thus I told you to warm up the baby R134A cannister by 10C above your car HVAC component metal temperature, so you benefit higher by approx +30 psi or 2 bar at cannister.
Still you can never entirely finish up the baby cannister content of R134A because at some stage the pressure will equalize between your HVAC system and baby cannister.
What is the supposed exact R134A weight of the baby cannister you plan to use ? I read that 12oz or 340 grams is the standard weight.
Make sure you buy pure R134A and not alternative* ( *could be flammable gas ), must not contain sealer or addetive of any sort.
I found only this two in Walmart website : https://www.walmart.com/ip/Certified...T&athbdg=L1600 https://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tec...T&athbdg=L1200
Remember, Denso ND-8 is designed to be used with R134a .
Back to filling up R134A........
01. Weight the brand new 340grams can. Both of them.
02A. Purge the hose and coupler before use, remember, you can purge using vapor form of r134A to save refrigerant. 5 grams loss expected here in vapor form, assumed.
02B. Use first 340 grams can and fill your HVAC system in liquid form into HP port. When there is no more pressure difference , your 340grams can will stop flowing into car HVAC.
===Stop===
03. Weight the spent 1st 340 grams can.
04. Dump the balance of the 1st can into atmosphere, yep it is legal at that small amount.
05. Weigt again the now empty 1st can. Figure out the actual R134A they sold you. Assume honest 340 grams.
-----assume you are able to fill well the 1st can because you heated up the can again while filling using electric heater gun-----
-----assume step 04 and 05 resulted in only 5 grams leftover in 1st can---------
Thus you have filled up 330 grams ( 5 grams lost to purging) and need only 590 less 330 grams = 260 grams more.
At 330 grams you can already start the engine and run HVAC. maximum cold, maximum blower. If someone can hold RPM at 1,500 even better.
06. Use 2nd can in vapor form into LP port. Purge the hoses when installling to coupler using vapor form...you loose 5 grams here, assumed.
07. R134A 2nd can on the kitchen scale on a table or stool and slowy fill the car while seeing 270 grams gone. 5 grams for the two hoses involved. 5 grams was lost to purging.
---- You just completed 590 grams fill ...yipee -----
I know, first time filling is no fun. Purging all hoses when making connection is something you must never forget.
====
Here is a recording of me filling the ML400 1,050 grams. I use audio note with screen recording for my own record.
I will take screen captures.
First you must understand where my LP pressure gauge is at and how it gets the pressure reading and the time it takes for TXV to equalize its vapor side to its liquid side ( could be 20-30 minutes) :
Filling at HP port only in liquid form R134a.
Naturally HVAC system is under vacuum still.
.
.
Last video capture is when I placed a pressure gauge at HP port when I removed the micron gauge and it shows the actual pressure at HP side at 98.6 PSI.
Video time shows the duration of the entire process. Here you can figure out the slow transfer of pressure or slow equalization from HP section via TXV to LP section and the pressure difference.
==============
W212 wrote : Good news to share..... my system seems to be leak free as the vaccum decay reading is only from -970 mbar to -962 mbar in 16 hours.
Yes, that is good enough. Rubber hoses and compressor oil will surrender its vapor , thus you see 8 millibar rise or 6,000 microns rise.
For analog gauge, you have done your best
If you have a micron gauge with good vacuum hose and done a very dry vacuuming down to 500 microns or -1,012.5 millibar-gauge,
16 hours vacuum decay can have rise by no more than 1,500 microns or 2 millibar rise.
1 millibar = 750 microns.
Both the liquid and vapor form of R134A has the same pressure., therefore you can not do below : do you think i could first fill in HP side in liquid form (upside down the cannister) until around 400 grams filled and then flip the cannister back to upside up in order to let the vapor form to push the liquid in the systen and also filled up the line.
Thus I told you to warm up the baby R134A cannister by 10C above your car HVAC component metal temperature, so you benefit higher by approx +30 psi or 2 bar at cannister.
Still you can never entirely finish up the baby cannister content of R134A because at some stage the pressure will equalize between your HVAC system and baby cannister.
What is the supposed exact R134A weight of the baby cannister you plan to use ? I read that 12oz or 340 grams is the standard weight.
Make sure you buy pure R134A and not alternative* ( *could be flammable gas ), must not contain sealer or addetive of any sort.
I found only this two in Walmart website : https://www.walmart.com/ip/Certified...T&athbdg=L1600 https://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tec...T&athbdg=L1200
Remember, Denso ND-8 is designed to be used with R134a .
Back to filling up R134A........
01. Weight the brand new 340grams can. Both of them.
02A. Purge the hose and coupler before use, remember, you can purge using vapor form of r134A to save refrigerant. 5 grams loss expected here in vapor form, assumed.
02B. Use first 340 grams can and fill your HVAC system in liquid form into HP port. When there is no more pressure difference , your 340grams can will stop flowing into car HVAC.
===Stop===
03. Weight the spent 1st 340 grams can.
04. Dump the balance of the 1st can into atmosphere, yep it is legal at that small amount.
05. Weigt again the now empty 1st can. Figure out the actual R134A they sold you. Assume honest 340 grams.
-----assume you are able to fill well the 1st can because you heated up the can again while filling using electric heater gun-----
-----assume step 04 and 05 resulted in only 5 grams leftover in 1st can---------
Thus you have filled up 330 grams ( 5 grams lost to purging) and need only 590 less 330 grams = 260 grams more.
At 330 grams you can already start the engine and run HVAC. maximum cold, maximum blower. If someone can hold RPM at 1,500 even better.
06. Use 2nd can in vapor form into LP port. Purge the hoses when installling to coupler using vapor form...you loose 5 grams here, assumed.
07. R134A 2nd can on the kitchen scale on a table or stool and slowy fill the car while seeing 270 grams gone. 5 grams for the two hoses involved. 5 grams was lost to purging.
---- You just completed 590 grams fill ...yipee -----
I know, first time filling is no fun. Purging all hoses when making connection is something you must never forget.
====
Here is a recording of me filling the ML400 1,050 grams. I use audio note with screen recording for my own record.
I will take screen captures.
First you must understand where my LP pressure gauge is at and how it gets the pressure reading and the time it takes for TXV to equalize its vapor side to its liquid side ( could be 20-30 minutes) :
Filling at HP port only in liquid form R134a.
Naturally HVAC system is under vacuum still.
.
.
Last video capture is when I placed a pressure gauge at HP port when I removed the micron gauge and it shows the actual pressure at HP side at 98.6 PSI.
Video time shows the duration of the entire process. Here you can figure out the slow transfer of pressure or slow equalization from HP section via TXV to LP section and the pressure difference.
==============
W212 wrote : Good news to share..... my system seems to be leak free as the vaccum decay reading is only from -970 mbar to -962 mbar in 16 hours.
Yes, that is good enough. Rubber hoses and compressor oil will surrender its vapor , thus you see 8 millibar rise or 6,000 microns rise.
For analog gauge, you have done your best
If you have a micron gauge with good vacuum hose and done a very dry vacuuming down to 500 microns or -1,012.5 millibar-gauge,
16 hours vacuum decay can have rise by no more than 1,500 microns or 2 millibar rise.
1 millibar = 750 microns.
Hope your r134A fill will be succesful.....
Million thanksssssssss!!
My system is kept vacuum now until i have time to do refilling, probably in this weekend.
Good day!
I just do a recharge..... but totally failed..... so sad......
first, i am too stupid to run the engine for 15 minutes (to charge up the battery) before doing refrigerant refill, so that only 100 grams of refrigerant could be filled in the system and no more could be able to add (at that time the low side and high side presure shown in the manifold set are both 100PSI........At that time, I run the engine and turn on MAX ac and fan, but the compressor seems could not be engaged as the low and high side pressure unchanged....
Is it too low of refrigerant (only 100 grams) to engage the compressor in my case? Or have I done something wrong? I need some advice please. Thanks.
I just do a recharge..... but totally failed..... so sad......
first, i am too stupid to run the engine for 15 minutes (to charge up the battery) before doing refrigerant refill, so that only 100 grams of refrigerant could be filled in the system and no more could be able to add (at that time the low side and high side presure shown in the manifold set are both 100PSI........At that time, I run the engine and turn on MAX ac and fan, but the compressor seems could not be engaged as the low and high side pressure unchanged....
Is it too low of refrigerant (only 100 grams) to engage the compressor in my case? Or have I done something wrong? I need some advice please. Thanks.
Aha, the HVAC system too hot temperature wise and it wont accept much R134A from your baby cannister as the R134A inside the car will have higher pressure than baby cannister.
Its okey, we all learn from mistake.
Lets recap again :
Your system new components are :
01. New compressor.
02. New condenser + filter drier.
ASK :
AA. Did you oil balance your new compressor ? How much oil ND-8 you kept or put in your new compressor. I do not know its actual oil quantity when shipped new.
BB. How much oil did you add for new condenser + filter drier.
CC. How much oil di you add where you flushed some hoses ?
DD. Did you spin by hand clockwise at least 10 times to spread the oil inside the new compressor ?
100 grams of R134A ( short of 490 grams to the target 590 grams ), will still provide "system pressure" because that is the nature of R134A
and your scanner showed 7.8 BAR of which I do not know the HVAC component metal temperature at that reading time.
2nd try......
Wait for you car to cool down back to ambient temperature.
Place your manifold and read LP and HP pressure before 2nd try recharging. Use another baby bottle of R134A and warm it 10C warmer than ambient temperature, fill liquid form into HP port.
If baby cannister is 340 grams, you need not worry of over charging.
Weight this 2nd try baby cannister and if total system you have 300+ grams, HVAC should be able to operate as there is enough mass of R134A.
Your scanner showed 0.81 amps the compressor control valve is being commanded ( power consumption ). This is good news.
Still, Check you connection/connector to the new compressor, make sure it is tight.
Let me know progress...........
Last edited by S-Prihadi; Jun 22, 2025 at 10:46 AM.
Aha, the HVAC system too hot temperature wise and it wont accept much R134A from your baby cannister as the R134A inside the car will have higher pressure than baby cannister.
Its okey, we all learn from mistake.
Lets recap again :
Your system new components are :
01. New compressor.
02. New condenser + filter drier.
ASK :
AA. Did you oil balance your new compressor ? How much oil ND-8 you kept or put in your new compressor. I do not know its actual oil quantity when shipped new.
BB. How much oil did you add for new condenser + filter drier.
CC. How much oil di you add where you flushed some hoses ?
DD. Did you spin by hand clockwise at least 10 times to spread the oil inside the new compressor ?
100 grams of R134A ( short of 490 grams to the target 590 grams ), will still provide "system pressure" because that is the nature of R134A
and your scanner showed 7.8 BAR of which I do not know the HVAC component metal temperature at that reading time.
2nd try......
Wait for you car to cool down back to ambient temperature.
Place your manifold and read LP and HP pressure before 2nd try recharging. Use another baby bottle of R134A and warm it 10C warmer than ambient temperature, fill liquid form into HP port.
If baby cannister is 340 grams, you need not worry of over charging.
Weight this 2nd try baby cannister and if total system you have 300+ grams, HVAC should be able to operate as there is enough mass of R134A.
Your scanner showed 0.81 amps the compressor control valve is being commanded ( power consumption ). This is good news.
Still, Check you connection/connector to the new compressor, make sure it is tight.
Let me know progress...........
Thanks. I have replaced the evaporator, condenser with filter dryer and the compressor, as well as flushed all lines with ac cleaner. Suppose it is free from any residual oil. My compressor is Denso and it is 120ml ND8 pre-filled. So that I just need to put all things together and no worries about the oil balance.
Yes, have rotated the compressor pulley several times, maybe 15 to 20, before installation. Also, I have placed it with pulley facing down the floor for 10 minutes to allow more lubrication for the shaft and the bearing (don't know it work or not!)
I will have a 2nd try and hope I can do it right....
There could also be a need for you to tell N2//7 AC computer to re-adapt to the new compressor.
There is a menu for that in Xentry and it fixed my ML400 case study.
Read here : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ompressor.html
Can ur iCarsoft do bi-directional control ?
Too bad my car is out of action and I can't use baby Launch scanner to see if it has the same menu as Xentry, below :
I have weight the baby cannister with the tap before doing recharge.....444g
After the system not accepting any refrigerant and repeated trials of turning on the compressor (but failed), interfacing finally disconnected all hoses and weight the baby cannister again with the same tap.... 331 grams
Supoose 5 grams vapor loss in the 3 hoses of manifold set plus purging, there should be 108 grams refrigerant filled in the system.....
There could also be a need for you to tell N2//7 AC computer to re-adapt to the new compressor.
There is a menu for that in Xentry and it fixed my ML400 case study.
Read here : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ompressor.html
Can ur iCarsoft do bi-directional control ?
Too bad my car is out of action and I can't use baby Launch scanner to see if it has the same menu as Xentry, below :
Thanks S-Pri, i will have a check of my icarsoft scanner to see if it has such function ot not....
cheers and good day!
Yippee....... the ac work again..... cheers and thanks all!!
One point on refrigerant refilling for sharing.... when finish refilling, there should be around 15 to 20 grams of liquid refrigerant (with tiny bit of compressor oil) left in the 6' long high pressure hose of the manifold gague set.... so, the amount of such loss should be counted when doing refilling, otherwise the system will be a bit undercharged.....
Having checked my icarsoft scanner, it has a function of compressor break in, but don't know why it do not work on my system after 3 attempt ......
Engine on......
Communication fail...... Further, one code popped up when i do the quick health check.....
I have never encountered this code.... electric heater booster?.... I am not sure whether my car has this booster or not..... will investigate.....
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
, therefore you can not do below :
