E-Class (W212) 2010 - 2016: E 350, E 550
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2010 W212 E550 Intermediate shaft issue

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Old Sep 21, 2025 | 09:48 AM
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2010 Mercedes E550 and a 1997 S600 Coupe
2010 W212 E550 Intermediate shaft issue

Well, I seem to have messed up a bit. I was replacing the lower control arms on my 2010 E550 V8 4matic and found my drivers side CV axle boot was ripped and had almost no grease. I went to replace it and the axle was seized onto the intermediate shaft, I got part of the CV axle to pop out but the inner joint was still on the intermediate shaft. I eventually made a small tool to use a slide hammer to get the part off the intermediate shaft.... Well, it came out with the intermediate shaft but somehow in the process it broke the flange that holds the snap ring in for the intermediate shaft off the I'm guessing the upper oil pan? I guess my question is, can I put it back together without a snap ring to limp it to a shop to do the upper oil pan? Or am I royally boned? The upper oil pan doesn't look like that easy to do or is it? Any advice would be much appreciated!
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Old Sep 21, 2025 | 11:32 AM
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W204 2010 C300 4matic Sport M272
As I was reading this all I was thinking is please tell me you removed the snap ring holding the intermediate shaft on before trying to yank it out...

If im reading correctly you did not remove the snap ring and you pulled the intermediate shaft out of the oil pan, damaging the pan?

If that is the case the solution is to replace the pan. Which is a big job. From what I have seen it involves dropping the front axle carrier/subframe in order to be able to remove/install the upper oil pan.

Heres a thread to read thru on the subject: https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...e-removal.html

I was recently discussing this on another thread, about how the cv axle gets rusted to the intermediate shaft. I was commenting how on eBay I come across left cv axles being sold together with the intermediate shaft, how they are not seperated. Seems they couldnt get them seperated so pulled them out as one.

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Old Sep 21, 2025 | 11:35 AM
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W204 2010 C300 4matic Sport M272
I reread what you wrote and must have missed the part about taking it to a shop. Just put everything back together minus the intermediate shaft and cv axle, get it towed on a flat bed. thats what I would do.

If you have AAA the tow will be free.

Its too late now but i'll add if the joint in the cv axle still seems fine, no clicking noises, and the boot was just torn and leaking grease it is possible to replace the outter boot with the axle still in the car. One of my outter boots has a tiny pin hole in it, I think from dropping the strut down on it when I was replacing them, and plan on doing the boot replacement while still in the car. Heres a photo of someone doing it on a W211:



Last edited by TimC300; Sep 21, 2025 at 11:47 AM.
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Old Sep 21, 2025 | 09:27 PM
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2010 Mercedes E550 and a 1997 S600 Coupe
Yeah, I managed with a little ingenuity on my side to cold weld the flange back to limp it home to get into a shop soon to get the upper oil pan replaced... Silver lining is it does look like the upper pan was starting to leak anyways. Lesson learned, I should've done my due diligence but I had a lot of things going on in life and unfortunately rushed a bit on this job and well it bit me in the ***.
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Old Sep 28, 2025 | 11:10 AM
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I recently tried replacing the drivers side cv axle on my wagon and I couldn't get the inside of the axle to slide off the stub. I tried a slide hammer, heat, beating on it with a stick and it wouldn't budge. The shop that did the repair for said the there is little tolerance.
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