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Romess angle is the angle of one of the suspension arm ( usually camber arm ), or CV drive shaft in Left Right reading.
Or inner to outer reading. Something like below using low cost inclinometer.
See the two red dots on my front camber arm, that is supposed to be where a Romess tool is to be placed.
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You ask :
Also do you think the camber adjusting bolts would be sufficient to pull it back into alignment?
I can't say with certainty that it will be able to pull the value back to mid center proper spec, you need to try.
But make sure your arms are healthy too, the bushings .
Add/edit 6th April 2026 01:42 pm: Since I only done correction bolts ( for the front ) on my car ONLY, albeit I experiement a lot....BUT not other 9* cars with various values ( * not enough sampling/experience ) I can't be certain on how much the effectiveness of correction bolt will be on your car.
Common figure on the internet is +/- 0.3 degree worth of correction for the correcion bolt, the same as what Bruce mentioned.
If indeed you can achieve -0.3 degree correction for your Right Front Camber, perhaps the final result maybe borderline with the spec required.
Remember, anything corrected on the left side, it effects also the right side and vice versa.
Camber and caster are related, due to the suspension geometry.
Good luck
Last edited by S-Prihadi; Apr 6, 2026 at 02:42 AM.
I concluded that the extra 180 degrees of torque specified, on the camber arm nut, is because the camber arm bushing is held between two metal plates.
To guarantee that the metal plates are pinched tightly together in to the metal inside the rubber bushing you should apply an extra 180 degrees.
It's not that the nut will work loose, it is because you don't want to risk the inner metal tube of the bushing to ever start to slip and rotate up and down on the camber bolt (or wear the metal plates)
You want the rubber in the bushing to do that work.
So I will re-torque at 100Nm + 180 degrees as directed by Mr Prihadi and he will sleep better at night not worrying about me
W212 FRONT CAMBER BOLT REPAIR - TORQUE THE NUT AT 100 Nm PLUS 180 DEGREES (EXTRA HALF TURN)
Metal plates:
I concluded that the extra 180 degrees of torque specified, on the camber arm nut, is because the camber arm bushing is held between two metal plates.
To guarantee that the metal plates are pinched tightly together in to the metal inside the rubber bushing you should apply an extra 180 degrees.
It's not that the nut will work loose, it is because you don't want to risk the inner metal tube of the bushing to ever start to slip and rotate up and down on the camber bolt (or wear the metal plates)
You want the rubber in the bushing to do that work. So I will re-torque at 100Nm + 180 degrees as directed by Mr Prihadi and he will sleep better at night not worrying about me
W212 FRONT CAMBER BOLT REPAIR - TORQUE THE NUT AT 100 Nm PLUS 180 DEGREES (EXTRA HALF TURN)
Metal plates:
I guess you are correct.
Unlike our brake caliper bolts or cylinder head bolts which goes into a machined deep female thread on a thick metal block,
the suspension arm bolts sits on a subframe ( two steel plates ) which need squeezing to make bushing works as proper bushings.
Yes.....Now I can sleep better, thinking of your car having the 180 degrees on them bolts.
MB World member made us aware re this W212 front and rear Camber thread !
Reading through - Front offset Camber bolts and rear upper adjustable Camber arms.
K-MAC - What obviously need to point out we have the experience of manufacturing (not just sourcing imports) Front Camber and also Caster - along with Rear Camber (and extra Toe) kits - plus uprated performance bushings - longer than anyone else !
Click “HERE” for attached pamphlet - A “TOTAL SYSTEM” when it comes to all W212 models incl. E63, E65/S.
Example: Mercedes Benz (Front only) Camber & Caster bolts - they are only a inaccurate / one offset position and provide only 0.3 degree change.
K-MAC - Serious adjustment up to 2 degrees adjustment range to fix it right the 1st time. And the unique patented design revolutionising how adjustment is made “precise single wrench” - ULTIMATE direct on alignment rack UNDER LOAD (Also same time uprating the 4 front / rear highest wearing bushings).
Plus all (Front & Rear) kits specially designed - so “no special tools” or time consuming need to “remove control arms” to install !
REAR KITS - Yes we manufacture also upper Camber arms (and not soft extruded aluminum - instead high strength chromoly steel) along with long life performance bushings.
But constant Design / Race testing / Proving - we have superceded these upper arms !
Now W212 Rear kit P/N 502126K ($495) provides both Camber (and extra Toe) and unlike upper arms - no time consuming need to remove arms, or difficult access to adjust.
Instead like K-MAC front kits - “easily accessible single wrench” precise adjustment - direct on alignment rack UNDER LOAD !
With more than enough adjustment to resolve any tire wear issues (or dial in extra Neg. for track days) and importantly (unlike upper arms) - when adjusting to resolve excess inner edge wear “RETAINS” / NOT REDUCING - IMPORTANT CLEARANCE TOP OF TIRE TO OUTER FENDER !
Report:
I fitted two new Pirelli 275 30 19 P Zero MO on the rear on 9.5J 19H2 ET48, P/N A2124014602, for an interstate road trip in Australia
On 7 May 2026 I drove from city of Adelaide to city of Melbourne 730km, then on to the country town of Lakes Entrance 320km
I was back in Adelaide on 11 May 2026. Total distance with very little city driving was 2182km
I had reduced the negative camber from -2 degrees to -0.5 degrees, which made the car feel very sure footed on the highway.
I swapped out the camber arms for adjustable ones as detailed above
All of the rubber is on the road, whereas with excessive negative camber I would say that only 50mm of the tyre was doing any work
I'm not suggesting that everyone operate outside MB spec for W212 rear camber, just reporting that it works for me.
I based the change on another MB we have, which is a W204, which gives the camber spec as -0.57 degrees, so that's how I applied it.
Highway speed across those States is 110 kph. I have an E250 which I wanted for economy for road trips, having owned a Toyota Prado 4WD at one time which was very heavy on fuel
I noticed slightly higher fuel consumption at 7 litres/100 km (40.3 mpg imperial), which is indication that there is more rubber on the road, ie greater rolling resistance
There is no excessive wear on the inside of the tyres like there was previously, tyre wear markers are at 1.6mm giving useful rubber as 6.4mm
The P Zero are a soft rubber compound so I don't expect super high mileage out of them.
Based on calculations for the rubber wear on that trip, I estimate tyre life now around 35,000km because there is no bad wear due to excessive negative camber
Photo is from accommodation at Quay West Apartments, Southbank, Melbourne, Australia, on the Yarra River with Princes Bridge in the background, if you are ever in this part of the world.
We lived in that city for many years and like to revisit it from time to time.
After having rear tyres melt like butter over and over on my E500 and getting plenty from the front pair, I'm getting adjustable rear camber arms. I have coilovers so height has changed from stock numbers. Camber tops for the front, which are set next to 0. Front tyres do pretty well.
Rear camber still sits around -2deg. planning to half this and see how it goes.
Not luck tracking down a 500 treadwear tyre in a 275/30/19 yet :P
W212 sedan (Special Edition which came with wide rubber)
I had Kumho Ecsta PS71 245 35 R19 tyres on the front wheels
One went out of shape without much wear.
You can tell when they start making a wop-wop noise
I won't drive on crap rubber
I see that PS71 is now discontinued and replaced with PS72 which is a new rubber compound
Anyway, I wouldn't buy Kumho ever again
Pirelli P Zero 275 30 R19 are on the rear already, 9.5J rims A212 401 4602 7 twin spoke
I measured tread depth 8mm
I am running -0.5 negative camber on the rear, toe-in set at 1.6mm
I can feel the difference, the rear of the car is positive on the road using all the rubber, not skittish using 50mm of rubber with excessive negative camber
Continental MaxContact MC6 245 35 R19 have been purchased, for the 8.5J rims A212 401 4502 7 twin spoke
I measured tread depth 7mm
Camber has been improved on the front wheels to -0.7 degrees left and -1 degree right, toe-in front set at 2.1mm
I'm running Continental on a W204 we also have, and they are showing low tyre wear
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having the 180 degrees on them bolts.
