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MOUNTING AN OEM FRONT LICENSE PLATE MOUNT MB PN # A2138859100
MOUNTING AN OEM FRONT LICENSE PLATE MOUNT
MB PN # A2138859100
I’ve seen multiple questions on the forum about mounting an OEM front license plate on various models, but the discussions seem to veer to the subject of the governmental over-reach, legality, and likelihood of enforcement for not having a front plate, or the merits of tow-hook mounted plates.
Here’s the process I used for mounting an OEM bracket on a 2017 E400 Sport wagon (S123).
The bracket is shaped to be centered over the vertical peak in the center of the nose, and bridge the horizontal ridge below the upper grille with the star, and the lower grille.
On the back of the bracket, there are three pressure-fit push-in retainer clips that locate and help to secure the bracket, and for which you need to 3/8” drill holes. (This may have been intended for a 1 cm hole, (.394”) but 3/8” (.375”) gives a nice tight fit.) There are also some differently shaped hook clips on the lower back half of the bracket, probably intended to secure it to an eggcrate type grille, but not for this application.
Start by applying painter’s tape to the area of your work, and establish your vertical center-line, lined up with the top point of the 3-pointed star. Mark with a fine-point Sharpie and a flexible 6” ruler. I used an inexpensive homebuilder’s laser level, resting on an overturned 5-gal bucket.
Establish the distance from the horizontal ridge to the hole. This is hard to measure, but I think I used 1 ½” but I encourage your to verify. Drill pilot two holes, 9 ¾” apart, on the same horizontal line (and 4 7/8” from your center line). When drilling plastic, I like to start with a small bit, 1/8” or less, as its easier to locate precisely your starting point. (A brad point bit might be easier to start, but will still “grab” when through.) Check your work after each hole, but holding up the bracket and seeing if the holes are lining up, and adjust accordingly.
If you haven’t drilled plastic before, be aware that once the drill bit is through the hole, the bit will want to grab and thread itself very quickly through the hole, so go slow, or gradually increase the size of the bit, or use a brad point bit, or just be prepared and hold the drill back once through, or all of the above.
Check your left and right holes by placing the bracket up and feeding the tips of the clips into your holes (do NOT push it in at this time), and check your center hole mark for accuracy. Drill the center hole about 3/16” higher than the left and right holes, checking your work before your enlarge the hold to full size. Clean off any swarf and remove the painters tape.
The plastic retaining clips are NOT robust, and can easily be deformed by less-than-careful handling. Straighten them (a heat gun can help soften if they are really bad) and feed the tip of left pin in first, then the right, then the center. Push in completely, in the same sequence. The bracket should be very close to the body, now, and feel somewhat secure.
Using the left and right clearance holes in the indented areas of the bracket as a guide, drill two 3/32” pilot holes through the bumper. Remove swarf and install two stainless steel pan-head screws. Tighten gently; you don’t want to strip these.
Mount your license plate to the bracket using machine-thread stainless steel screws.
For me, having garaged my cars in the same NYC garage since 1985(!) I am painfully aware that they mean it literaly when they post a big sign “Not Responsible for Painted Bumpers”. I use a fold-out bumper guard in the back, and I tried a removable nose pad before getting lazy and just letting the painted bumpers get destroyed. This year, I’m trying a thick foam rubber front license plate frame, in the hope that it will cushion the front bumper from the “park-by-feel” school of car jockeying. It’s big. It’s ugly. It reminds me of a cow-catcher on a freight train, but its less visible on a black car.
Good luck!
MATERIALS USED:
License Plate Bracket PN A2138859100 ($74 at dealer, or about $20 on eBay)
Painter’s Tape
Laser Level and 5 gal car wash bucket
Fine-point Sharpie
Flexible stainless steel 6” Starrett ruler
Screw-gun/Drill Front of Bracket Top of Bracket Left Side of Bracket Back of Bracket Detail of Bracket Clip Back of Bracket Painter's Tape on Nose Using a laser to establish center line and level line Holes needed Bracket in Place Bracket secured with pan-head screws Side View of bracket, installed Rubber-Baby-Buggy-Bumper Installed.
#2 Phillips head tip in holder
3/32”, ¼”, and 3/8” drill bits
2 stainless steel panhead screws
4 stainless steel license plate machine screws
Opt: Luv-Tap Bumper Thumper ($20 Amazon)
It's a shame to have to put a big old bracket and the license plate on the front of a car the designers worked so hard to make stylish. Fortunately in my province we don't need to put one on.
It's a shame to have to put a big old bracket and the license plate on the front of a car the designers worked so hard to make stylish. Fortunately in my province we don't need to put one on.
I agree. It's hard to imagine drilling holes into the paintwork when there are other attachment options. We're fortunate in Florida that there are no front plates.
Previous owner had already drilled two screws into the bumper, and installed a badly-modified, badly-attached plate. Mine, at least, is secure, covered up his holes, OEM, and gives me some bumper protection. I have tow-hook mounted plates (and un-drilled front bumpers) on my other cars.
I recently moved from NC to TX where they are required to have a license plate on the front of the vehicle. Looks like I'll keep my fingers crossed to not ever get a ticket. I refuse to put a license plate on the front of my car. I'll tell them the brackets are on back order...lol.
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