Front brakes




Your front rotors need NOT be changed until you change the front pads a second time (i.e., every other pad change). It is true that the rotors are not designed to be "turned" but replaced instead. But they should be good for at least 70K miles, depending on whether you are a heavy use driver.
And BTW, you needn't change the front pads until you get the sensor wear warning, either.
Up to you, but I would never have the dealer do any of this work. Find an independent workshop if you insist on spending $500 for front brake pads (LOL)










I have followed the story of "warped rotors", rotors needing to be replaced with pads to avoid "squeaking" brakes, etc.
This is the biggest con out there.
Warped rotors: look at the rotors and then think about the heat and then instant cooling required to warp those rotors inches in thickness. Unless you are diving at extremely high speed with frequent application of brakes and then drive through a puddle of water the chances of warping your rotors is slim to non and slim just left town.
However if you replace your pads and feel pulsation or thumping when you apply the brakes then you might have warped rotors.
Brake pads: I agree with all the above. there is a sensor in the pads that in the old days you heard an audible metallic sound, now a warning on the dash. If you change the pads, quickly no damage has been done to the rotors. However if you wait, then the rivets in the pads might score your rotors. So if the light comes on, make arrangements to have your pads changed.
Rotors: Brake pads are designed to wear not rotors. I remember working on cars with drum brakes and how difficult it was to replace them and often had to turn the drums when you replaced the brakes. All that changed with disc brakes. Originally the service charge for disc was substantially less than change for replacing drum brakes. Not that everything is disc, both front and back, dealers are charging more for labor to change the disc pads than they used to change drum brakes, inflation considered.
Just my $.02 and hope this helps
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The Best of Mercedes & AMG




Many years ago, if you remember the rims of Mercedes were always black, because they used a very soft brake pad that lasted 10,000 to 15,000 miles while other pads, like on American and Japanese cars last 40,000 to 50,000. Mercedes said the softer pads were necessary to achieve short stopping distances.
Of course the stopping distances on the Mercedes were the same or only marginally better than other cars.
Then came BMW and Audi with all maintenance for the first 3 years included.
Guess what happened: Both BMW and Audi changed their brake pads to last longer and so did Mercedes. Amazing - but not really: once BMW and Audi had to bear the cost of replacing the brake pads, they went to a harder pad that lasted longer and stopping distances remained the same.
The bottom line, at least here in the New York Metropolitan area is that we have over 20 Mercedes dealers competing for your business along with Audi, Jaguar, Maserati and BMW. So the profits that were made in selling have greatly diminished. Now it is up to the service department to pick up that slack.
In fact the service department, plus used car sales, are the prime profit centers for auto dealerships today.
Fully agree with coasting to a stop and using engine braking wherever possible. This extends brake pad life in a meaningful way.
Also, it cannot be overstated that avoiding the use of assist systems extends brake pad life. Lane keeping systems and Distronic aggressively use brakes. What is less widely understood is that basic non-Distronic uses rear brakes to decelerate if the actual vehicle speed exceeds the set/target speed.
I make an effort to manually deactivate cruise control on downhill descents and when I want to decelerate to a lower highway speed. This avoids use of rear brake pads.

Fully agree with coasting to a stop and using engine braking wherever possible. This extends brake pad life in a meaningful way.
Also, it cannot be overstated that avoiding the use of assist systems extends brake pad life. Lane keeping systems and Distronic aggressively use brakes. What is less widely understood is that basic non-Distronic uses rear brakes to decelerate if the actual vehicle speed exceeds the set/target speed.
I make an effort to manually deactivate cruise control on downhill descents and when I want to decelerate to a lower highway speed. This avoids use of rear brake pads.
The backing plate is ~3mm, and the pad thickness can be estimated with respect to pad thickness vs the backing plate. I have 50k miles on my W166 and have quite a bit of pads left, front and rear. Rear rotors are smooth, front rotors have minor grooves. No vibrations when braking.
Actually the pad backing plate is almost 6mm. Full new pad thickness is 10mm and pads should be replaced at not less than 3mm. I replace pads at not less than 4mm and have all electronic aids inactive.





