Engine Shaking
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 2
Likes: 1
MB E350 W213
Engine Shaking
Hi All - new to the forum!
Looking for some help on my E350 W213 from 2016.
At cold start in the morning without touching anything in the car (engine runs in P), suddenly (after 1 minute) car revs from 6-700 rpm to 1000 rpm - it stands at 1000 rpm for approx 2 minutes, and then goes down to 6-700 rpm.
Then, when reaching 6-700 rpm, engine starts shaking - sometimes it is a violent shaking, and sometimes it is less than that.
However, when going into 'D' and then drive off, car is perfectly normal.
All values are good on xentry and no fault codes are present.
Once you drive the car, everything is perfect.
Any ideas are welcome!
Thanks in advance
Looking for some help on my E350 W213 from 2016.
At cold start in the morning without touching anything in the car (engine runs in P), suddenly (after 1 minute) car revs from 6-700 rpm to 1000 rpm - it stands at 1000 rpm for approx 2 minutes, and then goes down to 6-700 rpm.
Then, when reaching 6-700 rpm, engine starts shaking - sometimes it is a violent shaking, and sometimes it is less than that.
However, when going into 'D' and then drive off, car is perfectly normal.
All values are good on xentry and no fault codes are present.
Once you drive the car, everything is perfect.
Any ideas are welcome!
Thanks in advance
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 14,678
Likes: 4,578
From: unbegrenzt
2017 GLE350 4MATIC
Possibilities:
- fuel
- spark
- air
- electronics (sensors)
What service or repair work has been done on this vehicle in the past 6 months?
Check for strangeness under all conditions. Cold start, warm start, idle, high rpm in park, low speed driving, high speed driving.
Unmetered air is the easiest thing to check. Look for loose or cracked air pipes and tubes, such as duct clamps and PCV tubes.
Fuel usually presents itself as white or black smoke out the tailpipe, or unburned gas smell out the tailpipe.
Electronics need time and effort to find and wiggle the main sensors. Cam position x 4, crank position, mass air, manifold pressure, coolant temp and O2 sensors x 4.
Spark is often a “throw parts at it” thing in my view. Replace the plugs, bolts/wires and coils. They on borderline throw away items these days.
- fuel
- spark
- air
- electronics (sensors)
What service or repair work has been done on this vehicle in the past 6 months?
Check for strangeness under all conditions. Cold start, warm start, idle, high rpm in park, low speed driving, high speed driving.
Unmetered air is the easiest thing to check. Look for loose or cracked air pipes and tubes, such as duct clamps and PCV tubes.
Fuel usually presents itself as white or black smoke out the tailpipe, or unburned gas smell out the tailpipe.
Electronics need time and effort to find and wiggle the main sensors. Cam position x 4, crank position, mass air, manifold pressure, coolant temp and O2 sensors x 4.
Spark is often a “throw parts at it” thing in my view. Replace the plugs, bolts/wires and coils. They on borderline throw away items these days.
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2024
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
w213
I have the same problem ! Did you solve it ?
Hi All - new to the forum!
Looking for some help on my E350 W213 from 2016.
At cold start in the morning without touching anything in the car (engine runs in P), suddenly (after 1 minute) car revs from 6-700 rpm to 1000 rpm - it stands at 1000 rpm for approx 2 minutes, and then goes down to 6-700 rpm.
Then, when reaching 6-700 rpm, engine starts shaking - sometimes it is a violent shaking, and sometimes it is less than that.
However, when going into 'D' and then drive off, car is perfectly normal.
All values are good on xentry and no fault codes are present.
Once you drive the car, everything is perfect.
Any ideas are welcome!
Thanks in advance
Looking for some help on my E350 W213 from 2016.
At cold start in the morning without touching anything in the car (engine runs in P), suddenly (after 1 minute) car revs from 6-700 rpm to 1000 rpm - it stands at 1000 rpm for approx 2 minutes, and then goes down to 6-700 rpm.
Then, when reaching 6-700 rpm, engine starts shaking - sometimes it is a violent shaking, and sometimes it is less than that.
However, when going into 'D' and then drive off, car is perfectly normal.
All values are good on xentry and no fault codes are present.
Once you drive the car, everything is perfect.
Any ideas are welcome!
Thanks in advance
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 5,378
Likes: 1,104
.
at3h is located in Denmark. In Europe the W213 came out in the Summer of 2016 as a 2016 model. Model years in Europe correspond with the calendar year in which they are produced. Not so in the US. In North America the W213 was labeled as a 2017 model even though it was produced early in 2016. My 2018 W213 was produced in the Spring of 2017.
Last edited by ua549; Feb 5, 2024 at 11:54 AM.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 1,430
Likes: 820
From: Florida
2018 AMG E43
at3h is located in Denmark. In Europe the W213 came out in the Summer of 2016 as a 2016 model. Model years in Europe correspond with the calendar year in which they are produced. Not so in the US. In North America the W213 was labeled as a 2017 model even though it was produced early in 2016. My 2018 W213 was produced in the Spring of 2017.
It was a similar situation with the W205. Some regions got the first W205's as a 2014 model, whereas in the US the W205 was 2015+.
It can get confusing for sure.
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Super Member
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From: USA to Germany
W221/W222/W213/X290
How many miles do you have on the car?
Could be many things. As Chassis pointed out I would start with fuel pressure and then move up. There is a bleeder valve right under the drivers footwell area (you'll have to remove all the plastic covering under the car to get to it) that you can plug in a fuel pressure gauge. Make sure that your low pressure lines are sending fuel and at the correct values. If that checks out, look into the high pressure fuel pump and injectors.
If all that looks fine, then I would look into the PCV system and into the sensors. It could be your O2 sensors have **** the bed like mine did, but those should last 100,000+ miles like mine. If that all checks out then I would look into spark plugs and ignition coils.
Could be many things. As Chassis pointed out I would start with fuel pressure and then move up. There is a bleeder valve right under the drivers footwell area (you'll have to remove all the plastic covering under the car to get to it) that you can plug in a fuel pressure gauge. Make sure that your low pressure lines are sending fuel and at the correct values. If that checks out, look into the high pressure fuel pump and injectors.
If all that looks fine, then I would look into the PCV system and into the sensors. It could be your O2 sensors have **** the bed like mine did, but those should last 100,000+ miles like mine. If that all checks out then I would look into spark plugs and ignition coils.
