How Many Miles Should I Expect on my Tires








The car is just above 96K miles, 2nd set of tires and still material left on the front (5/32), and less on the rear (3/32). The dealer attempted to align it 3 different times within the first 60K miles, and I was never charged, and the service note always said: "within specifications".
I can only imagine the tires/brakes durability is strongly correlated to road quality, traffic vs highway ( most of mine), driving habits (like coasting to the stop), and of course tire brand (stock Conti-Contact Pro)




You are correct, it comes down to load, but more specifically the tire deflection. It's the "bulge" that a tire makes under load or the torque applied to it. As you roll, this constant deformation creates heat. The more load that is put on or the higher the speed the more deformation occurs. Air pressure is used to counter that deformation and make sure the tire doesn't overheat. Every tire has a load rating. It's the number next to the speed rating letter. Every tire also has a max PSI that's found on the sidewall. Usually 50 psi or a little higher. That's the pressure at which the tire can hold its max load as specified in the load rating. By lowering the tire pressure you reduce the max amount of load that the tire can carry in exchange for comfort. So most vehicles use tires with a higher load rating than needed in order to be able to lower the tire pressure down from the max pressure on the sidewall.
Just to be clear. These are always cold pressures.
Last edited by superswiss; Feb 23, 2024 at 02:18 PM.
You are correct, it comes down to load, but more specifically the tire deflection. It's the "bulge" that a tire makes under load or the torque applied to it. As you roll, this constant deformation creates heat. The more load that is put on or the higher the speed the more deformation occurs. Air pressure is used to counter that deformation and make sure the tire doesn't overheat. Every tire has a load rating. It's the number next to the speed rating letter. Every tire also has a max PSI that's found on the sidewall. Usually 50 psi or a little higher. That's the pressure at which the tire can hold its max load as specified in the load rating. By lowering the tire pressure you reduce the max amount of load that the tire can carry in exchange for comfort. So most vehicles use tires with a higher load rating than needed in order to be able to lower the tire pressure down from the max pressure on the sidewall.
Just to be clear. These are always cold pressures.
GVWR (gross vehicle weight rating) is shown on the VIN sticker, usually on the driver's side door jamb. My W213 E350 lists the total gross weight and separately shows the gross front and gross rear (see attached). If you switch to non run flat tires or to different tire sizes, say a lower profile (wider), the new tires may not meet the GVWR at the tire pressures recommended on the fuel door. However, you may be able to meet the specs by increasing tire pressure, which increases load capacity. There are charts that will show the load values at various pressures.




You are correct, it comes down to load, but more specifically the tire deflection. It's the "bulge" that a tire makes under load or the torque applied to it. As you roll, this constant deformation creates heat. The more load that is put on or the higher the speed the more deformation occurs. Air pressure is used to counter that deformation and make sure the tire doesn't overheat. Every tire has a load rating. It's the number next to the speed rating letter. Every tire also has a max PSI that's found on the sidewall. Usually 50 psi or a little higher. That's the pressure at which the tire can hold its max load as specified in the load rating. By lowering the tire pressure you reduce the max amount of load that the tire can carry in exchange for comfort. So most vehicles use tires with a higher load rating than needed in order to be able to lower the tire pressure down from the max pressure on the sidewall.
Just to be clear. These are always cold pressures.

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