How Many Miles Should I Expect on my Tires
02-23-2024, 11:30 AM
#26
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2008 E350 (W211 @170K), 2012 ML350 (W166 @119K), 2014 E350 Sport (W212 @96K), 2015 ML350 (W166 @92K)
I have been using Continental ExtremeContact DWS06 tires in my SLK350 since day-1, and swear by these tires for overall quietness, handling/performance, longevity (>25K miles for me) and overall value for the money. In over 120K miles driven on this car, I have replaced these staggered set about 5 times (rears) and 4 times (fronts), hence averaging ~25K worry-free miles per set. This mileage works for me, as the car is a sporty ride and I have a lead foot. My W213 came with Conti ProContact RFs and currently at ~6/32 with ~10K miles added since purchase (~1 year of ownership). When replacement time comes I may just grab a set of my old reliable/favorite tire - Conti's DWS06 non-RFs. If I get about 25K miles out of these, I'll be mighty happy....
Another Continental supporter. I am told I also have a heavy foot (which is a relative opinion), but my ContiContactPro non-RF lasts longer than yours. Do you track your cars, SLK/E? or perhaps tire pressures? Or I drive like grandma then. I had thought about switching to ExtremeContact, but since these are working great, I have hesitated to change.
02-23-2024, 12:17 PM
#27
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Another Continental supporter. I am told I also have a heavy foot (which is a relative opinion), but my ContiContactPro non-RF lasts longer than yours. Do you track your cars, SLK/E? or perhaps tire pressures? Or I drive like grandma then. I had thought about switching to ExtremeContact, but since these are working great, I have hesitated to change.
02-23-2024, 01:56 PM
#28
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2015 ML350+2021 E350
Apologies for jumping in with a W212 E350, non-runflats tires.
The car is just above 96K miles, 2nd set of tires and still material left on the front (5/32), and less on the rear (3/32). The dealer attempted to align it 3 different times within the first 60K miles, and I was never charged, and the service note always said: "within specifications".
I can only imagine the tires/brakes durability is strongly correlated to road quality, traffic vs highway ( most of mine), driving habits (like coasting to the stop), and of course tire brand (stock Conti-Contact Pro)
The car is just above 96K miles, 2nd set of tires and still material left on the front (5/32), and less on the rear (3/32). The dealer attempted to align it 3 different times within the first 60K miles, and I was never charged, and the service note always said: "within specifications".
I can only imagine the tires/brakes durability is strongly correlated to road quality, traffic vs highway ( most of mine), driving habits (like coasting to the stop), and of course tire brand (stock Conti-Contact Pro)
Not to start another debate, but what pressures are you planning to run on your new tires? I do @36psi (cold) all around. Not too low, not too high. It irritates me when I get the car back from service with tires @40+psi. It feels like a basketball bouncing on the highway. I can immediately tell the difference as they warm up to 45psi sometimes.
02-23-2024, 02:07 PM
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2019 C63CS
You are correct, it comes down to load, but more specifically the tire deflection. It's the "bulge" that a tire makes under load or the torque applied to it. As you roll, this constant deformation creates heat. The more load that is put on or the higher the speed the more deformation occurs. Air pressure is used to counter that deformation and make sure the tire doesn't overheat. Every tire has a load rating. It's the number next to the speed rating letter. Every tire also has a max PSI that's found on the sidewall. Usually 50 psi or a little higher. That's the pressure at which the tire can hold its max load as specified in the load rating. By lowering the tire pressure you reduce the max amount of load that the tire can carry in exchange for comfort. So most vehicles use tires with a higher load rating than needed in order to be able to lower the tire pressure down from the max pressure on the sidewall.
Just to be clear. These are always cold pressures.
Last edited by superswiss; 02-23-2024 at 02:18 PM.
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02-23-2024, 03:45 PM
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2015 ML350+2021 E350
Most shops inflate the tires to the pressure listed on the door jamb unless told otherwise. They have to by law, unless the customer opts out on the work order. I always opt out and tell them not to change it. That pressure is known as the max load pressure and is for when the vehicle is loaded up to its gross weight. In the USA due to the Firestone issues in the 90s, the DOT decided to only list max load on the sticker as that is the safest pressure. For normal driving just by yourself, barely anything in the trunk and potentially 1-2 passenger that's what the normal tire pressure listed on the sticker inside of the fuel door is for. There are usually other pressures for when you want to drive higher speeds for extended periods. In some vehicles the pressure needs to be increased for speeds above 100 mph, in AMGs it needs to be increased for speeds above 155 mph.
You are correct, it comes down to load, but more specifically the tire deflection. It's the "bulge" that a tire makes under load or the torque applied to it. As you roll, this constant deformation creates heat. The more load that is put on or the higher the speed the more deformation occurs. Air pressure is used to counter that deformation and make sure the tire doesn't overheat. Every tire has a load rating. It's the number next to the speed rating letter. Every tire also has a max PSI that's found on the sidewall. Usually 50 psi or a little higher. That's the pressure at which the tire can hold its max load as specified in the load rating. By lowering the tire pressure you reduce the max amount of load that the tire can carry in exchange for comfort. So most vehicles use tires with a higher load rating than needed in order to be able to lower the tire pressure down from the max pressure on the sidewall.
Just to be clear. These are always cold pressures.
You are correct, it comes down to load, but more specifically the tire deflection. It's the "bulge" that a tire makes under load or the torque applied to it. As you roll, this constant deformation creates heat. The more load that is put on or the higher the speed the more deformation occurs. Air pressure is used to counter that deformation and make sure the tire doesn't overheat. Every tire has a load rating. It's the number next to the speed rating letter. Every tire also has a max PSI that's found on the sidewall. Usually 50 psi or a little higher. That's the pressure at which the tire can hold its max load as specified in the load rating. By lowering the tire pressure you reduce the max amount of load that the tire can carry in exchange for comfort. So most vehicles use tires with a higher load rating than needed in order to be able to lower the tire pressure down from the max pressure on the sidewall.
Just to be clear. These are always cold pressures.
GVWR (gross vehicle weight rating) is shown on the VIN sticker, usually on the driver's side door jamb. My W213 E350 lists the total gross weight and separately shows the gross front and gross rear (see attached). If you switch to non run flat tires or to different tire sizes, say a lower profile (wider), the new tires may not meet the GVWR at the tire pressures recommended on the fuel door. However, you may be able to meet the specs by increasing tire pressure, which increases load capacity. There are charts that will show the load values at various pressures.
02-23-2024, 04:07 PM
#31
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2008 E350 (W211 @170K), 2012 ML350 (W166 @119K), 2014 E350 Sport (W212 @96K), 2015 ML350 (W166 @92K)
Most shops inflate the tires to the pressure listed on the door jamb unless told otherwise. They have to by law, unless the customer opts out on the work order. I always opt out and tell them not to change it. That pressure is known as the max load pressure and is for when the vehicle is loaded up to its gross weight. In the USA due to the Firestone issues in the 90s, the DOT decided to only list max load on the sticker as that is the safest pressure. For normal driving just by yourself, barely anything in the trunk and potentially 1-2 passenger that's what the normal tire pressure listed on the sticker inside of the fuel door is for. There are usually other pressures for when you want to drive higher speeds for extended periods. In some vehicles the pressure needs to be increased for speeds above 100 mph, in AMGs it needs to be increased for speeds above 155 mph.
You are correct, it comes down to load, but more specifically the tire deflection. It's the "bulge" that a tire makes under load or the torque applied to it. As you roll, this constant deformation creates heat. The more load that is put on or the higher the speed the more deformation occurs. Air pressure is used to counter that deformation and make sure the tire doesn't overheat. Every tire has a load rating. It's the number next to the speed rating letter. Every tire also has a max PSI that's found on the sidewall. Usually 50 psi or a little higher. That's the pressure at which the tire can hold its max load as specified in the load rating. By lowering the tire pressure you reduce the max amount of load that the tire can carry in exchange for comfort. So most vehicles use tires with a higher load rating than needed in order to be able to lower the tire pressure down from the max pressure on the sidewall.
Just to be clear. These are always cold pressures.
You are correct, it comes down to load, but more specifically the tire deflection. It's the "bulge" that a tire makes under load or the torque applied to it. As you roll, this constant deformation creates heat. The more load that is put on or the higher the speed the more deformation occurs. Air pressure is used to counter that deformation and make sure the tire doesn't overheat. Every tire has a load rating. It's the number next to the speed rating letter. Every tire also has a max PSI that's found on the sidewall. Usually 50 psi or a little higher. That's the pressure at which the tire can hold its max load as specified in the load rating. By lowering the tire pressure you reduce the max amount of load that the tire can carry in exchange for comfort. So most vehicles use tires with a higher load rating than needed in order to be able to lower the tire pressure down from the max pressure on the sidewall.
Just to be clear. These are always cold pressures.
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02-26-2024, 12:17 PM
#32
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2020 E450 Wagon
I find your experience with tires quite surprising. I've never had a set of tires wear out in 10K miles. I've always gotten about 30K miles out of them. This is for both cars that I've driven and for my wife's cars. Perhaps the climate affects wear. I always rotate my tires every 6k miles or so -- that probably helps.
02-28-2024, 08:31 PM
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2018 S560 and 2019 E450 Wagon.
My Wagon came with the Goodyear Eagle Run Flat tires and I got rid of them at 10K miles for a set of Michelin Primacy 3 Runflat tires and very happy I did that. The Goodyears had a extremely harsh ride and after have them removed I could see why, the tires are extremely stiff, like a rock. The Michelins ride much better and now the car has 34K miles on it so far thats over 24K miles on the tires and they still look good. I'm amazed you haven't damaged your rims on Long Island with the way the roads are so pothole ridden with those Goodyear Run Flats. If you needed a All season which you probably would being in NY the Continental DWS 06 plus might be your best option, the Primacy 3's are summer only tire but serve me fine in Sunny Florida.
03-01-2024, 03:56 PM
#34
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My Wagon came with the Goodyear Eagle Run Flat tires and I got rid of them at 10K miles for a set of Michelin Primacy 3 Runflat tires and very happy I did that. The Goodyears had a extremely harsh ride and after have them removed I could see why, the tires are extremely stiff, like a rock. The Michelins ride much better and now the car has 34K miles on it so far thats over 24K miles on the tires and they still look good. I'm amazed you haven't damaged your rims on Long Island with the way the roads are so pothole ridden with those Goodyear Run Flats. If you needed a All season which you probably would being in NY the Continental DWS 06 plus might be your best option, the Primacy 3's are summer only tire but serve me fine in Sunny Florida.
