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When I was in NYC I always depended on the DMV to register my trucks. Since I moved out here to LA I decided to get AAA after one of my Land Rovers left me high and dry in the middle of I5 about 200 miles from home at 2a. I had to threaten to cancel Geico to get them to cover my full towing cost.
Then I bought my E63 and found out I could skip the DMV entirely for car registration, which has been a game changer for me! All I do now is get a smog check, bring that in with the Title to AAA and they get me a sticker on the spot. Not sure if your truck is a NJ truck. AAA can also issue plates as well.
May be worth a shot to avoid the DMV... which is an archaic waste of time.
When I was in NYC I always depended on the DMV to register my trucks. Since I moved out here to LA I decided to get AAA after one of my Land Rovers left me high and dry in the middle of I5 about 200 miles from home at 2a. I had to threaten to cancel Geico to get them to cover my full towing cost.
Then I bought my E63 and found out I could skip the DMV entirely for car registration, which has been a game changer for me! All I do now is get a smog check, bring that in with the Title to AAA and they get me a sticker on the spot. Not sure if your truck is a NJ truck. AAA can also issue plates as well.
May be worth a shot to avoid the DMV... which is an archaic waste of time.
same here.... moved from NY to CA ... and got AAA ... they are open... and do 80% of what DMV can do,
When I was in NYC I always depended on the DMV to register my trucks. Since I moved out here to LA I decided to get AAA after one of my Land Rovers left me high and dry in the middle of I5 about 200 miles from home at 2a. I had to threaten to cancel Geico to get them to cover my full towing cost.
Then I bought my E63 and found out I could skip the DMV entirely for car registration, which has been a game changer for me! All I do now is get a smog check, bring that in with the Title to AAA and they get me a sticker on the spot. Not sure if your truck is a NJ truck. AAA can also issue plates as well.
May be worth a shot to avoid the DMV... which is an archaic waste of time.
Originally Posted by amgdvl
same here.... moved from NY to CA ... and got AAA ... they are open... and do 80% of what DMV can do,
I wish! NJ blames their old DMV computer system that they can't support satellite offices. There's one other half-shady option but I'm left with pretty much no choice now.
1.) Noticed I was getting an ABS light warning, even when I first got the truck. I've had this happen on LR builds and even on my End 63, so I thought I was going to have to hunt down a speed sensor.... not a fun task without a scanner.
Ran codes for the ESP and got two faults for the steering angle sensor:
The Speed Sensors are insanely expensive in these trucks, and so is the steering angle sensor, upwards of $400.
I remembered an old trick I performed on my E63.
Turn the wheel full right, then full left and then center it. I did this after a quick drive around the block to trip the sensor and nothing happened.
I turned the car off, went inside to get ready to run to the hardware store for screws for my visors and as I backed out the ABS light tripped again.
So I figured, why not do the procedure in reverse gear while stationary. Turned the wheel full right, then full left and then centered it. Backed out of my driveway, the light was still on.
Pulled into a gas station to grab some water. Hopped back in the ABS light was off. Drove for about 5 miles, shopped, got back in drove another 5 miles... which all that driving would have the sensor react... and nada.
ABS due to the steering angle sensor successfully reset!! Win!
2.) Got screws that were about 8mm longer than the stock ones and had to carve some material out of the way, but finally have sun visors and my headliner and accessories transformation to black is complete. I may eventually buy a overhead lap unit and paint it black. But for now I'm finally done w that!
1.) Noticed I was getting an ABS light warning, even when I first got the truck. I've had this happen on LR builds and even on my End 63, so I thought I was going to have to hunt down a speed sensor.... not a fun task without a scanner.
Ran codes for the ESP and got two faults for the steering angle sensor:
The Speed Sensors are insanely expensive in these trucks, and so is the steering angle sensor, upwards of $400.
I remembered an old trick I performed on my E63.
Turn the wheel full right, then full left and then center it. I did this after a quick drive around the block to trip the sensor and nothing happened.
I turned the car off, went inside to get ready to run to the hardware store for screws for my visors and as I backed out the ABS light tripped again.
So I figured, why not do the procedure in reverse gear while stationary. Turned the wheel full right, then full left and then centered it. Backed out of my driveway, the light was still on.
Pulled into a gas station to grab some water. Hopped back in the ABS light was off. Drove for about 5 miles, shopped, got back in drove another 5 miles... which all that driving would have the sensor react... and nada.
ABS due to the steering angle sensor successfully reset!! Win!
2.) Got screws that were about 8mm longer than the stock ones and had to carve some material out of the way, but finally have sun visors and my headliner and accessories transformation to black is complete. I may eventually buy a overhead lap unit and paint it black. But for now I'm finally done w that!
I hope your issue is solved for good.
My ABS light has come on a few times, seems it is normally triggered when stationary (sitting in a drive through or parking lot with the car running). Whenever I turn the car off and back on, the light goes away.
I started out with the free (easiest) solution, which was trying to reset the steering angle sensor. I tried that process a few times, but never knew if I was successful, as the light rarely comes on and, as stated, disappears after restart. After trying that, I got the light again...
I then went with the cheapest solution, replacing the brake pedal sensor, it is about 20.00 and installed in about 25 minutes. I thought I had it solved.
Light came on again. With the original code reader that I had, I could never run codes after the light was on, as when I plugged it in, it would tell me to turn off the car for 10 seconds, thus erasing the code.
I purchased the icarsoft “professional” scanner. Ran for codes regarding abs and got nothing....
I am not sure if the code reader isn’t working, as when I scan the ABS codes (while driving), it shows all the wheels at a speed of zero...?
Now I am just waiting for the light to come on again so I can plug in the icarsoft reader, as it appears you don’t need to turn off the car to hook it up.
I will take another look, maybe I never ran ESP codes and that is why I never found anything....
Who knows my problem could be solved too, I am just too OCD with my vehicles and want to have a permanent fix.
Thanks for this thread, good stuff.
(I am hoping that your driver’s seat has some play in it and you post a diy on fixing it, as that is about the last item I need to resolve. Ok, I really hope you don’t have the driver’s seat problem...I just want to find a fix
Well I definitely have to eat my hat. The ABS light came back on. I did the SAS reset and it went off. Drove a bit and boom. Back on.
I am going to look at replacing the steering angle sensor and make a write up.... now I just want to source the least expensive one, as I realllly need to slow down on spending cash on this truck.
As for the passenger seat it's pretty easy to access all the bolts aside from the right rear, which requires you to take off the plastic cover for the electronics, which is a total PITA.
If it's the base of the seat just lift the carpet up, it actually comes right off the floorboard really easy and inspect the bolts. If it's the right rear... prepare to cut your fingers up taking off that cover.
I had to exacto the plastic "rivets" that were put on at the factory to get the plastic cover off.
If you do remove your seat to inspect it, there is a Male / Female connector that runs along the tranny tunnel inside the seat rail that you have to disconnect first... I didn't and had to re-wire the damn thing.
Yea the iCarsoft tool is a bit of a learning curve... in the LCD direction. It's not anything super advanced, so you need to slow your thought process down a bit to have it make sense.
I'll do a quick write up on how I found the code when I go in to tackle the steering angle sensor, which I will also document.
Well I definitely have to eat my hat. The ABS light came back on. I did the SAS reset and it went off. Drove a bit and boom. Back on.
I am going to look at replacing the steering angle sensor and make a write up.... now I just want to source the least expensive one, as I realllly need to slow down on spending cash on this truck.
As for the passenger seat it's pretty easy to access all the bolts aside from the right rear, which requires you to take off the plastic cover for the electronics, which is a total PITA.
If it's the base of the seat just lift the carpet up, it actually comes right off the floorboard really easy and inspect the bolts. If it's the right rear... prepare to cut your fingers up taking off that cover.
I had to exacto the plastic "rivets" that were put on at the factory to get the plastic cover off.
If you do remove your seat to inspect it, there is a Male / Female connector that runs along the tranny tunnel inside the seat rail that you have to disconnect first... I didn't and had to re-wire the damn thing.
Yea the iCarsoft tool is a bit of a learning curve... in the LCD direction. It's not anything super advanced, so you need to slow your thought process down a bit to have it make sense.
I'll do a quick write up on how I found the code when I go in to tackle the steering angle sensor, which I will also document.
Sorry to hear the ABS light came back on, hopefully the cleaning works.
I have inspected all the connections/mounting points in regards to the seat and they all appear solid. I am starting to think that it is a spring that somehow was “blown out” or otherwise got disconnected at some point....
Agree with you on icarsoft, one of these days I just need to buy a good scanner. I know have about 7 cheaper ones that help out at times and other times are useless.
Had something similar happen to mine last month... the SRS air bag system dash warning came on. Not the same thing, but my mechanic recommended that I replace the steering control module which cost around $385. I wouldn't have thought that was related, but it seems to have taken care of the issue.
Cleaning is free. On my Volt the mode selection stopped working. I couldn't get it out of electric mode and into mountain mode. 98k miles on it. NFW did I want to take the car to a "mechanic" and spend money hand over fist until they replace all the wrong parts to find the right one to replace. So I popped the button cover off, blew inside and it has worked ever since.
Well went the cleaning route and the steering angle sensor is even worse off now
The ABS light comes on the second you touch the wheel.
So I bought a new SAS, $450 good bye!
Quick question, anyone have a blown out diagram of the pieces that go to the steering wheel?
First: I ask because there is a wire that I accidentally broke a connector on. May replace the connector since it's easy enough, but would love to just replace the wire.
Second: There's a part that has some grease and a ribbon that turns, there was a lot of dust on that part as well, might as well swap that out too so I never have to go back in the steering wheel.
Side note, finally ordered new Bilsteins for my E63, as I had to finally drive the old girl last week and the suspension is toast. Another $2500.
Annnnd I think I am going to take on building a project Triumph TR6 once I relocate to Seattle in September (Going to do a restomod and have the first 2J single turbo build), just have to find a good candidate.
Well went the cleaning route and the steering angle sensor is even worse off now
The ABS light comes on the second you touch the wheel.
So I bought a new SAS, $450 good bye!
Quick question, anyone have a blown out diagram of the pieces that go to the steering wheel?
First: I ask because there is a wire that I accidentally broke a connector on. May replace the connector since it's easy enough, but would love to just replace the wire.
Second: There's a part that has some grease and a ribbon that turns, there was a lot of dust on that part as well, might as well swap that out too so I never have to go back in the steering wheel.
Side note, finally ordered new Bilsteins for my E63, as I had to finally drive the old girl last week and the suspension is toast. Another $2500.
Annnnd I think I am going to take on building a project Triumph TR6 once I relocate to Seattle in September (Going to do a restomod and have the first 2J single turbo build), just have to find a good candidate.
That's exactly what it is. Now I just have to scour the internet to find the part number. I'm sure the W463 variant will easily be $100 more than any of the others
I'm going to re-run the codes tomorrow to see if this is fouling out as well. It wasn't as dusty as I imagined it would be in there, but there was some fine white soot that accumulated over the years.
Found the clockspring part and ordered from FCP Euro, figure I'll do both at the same time to not have to go back in there, and if I do I'll have a lifetime warranty.
The space to get your hands in the spaces to bolt this thing up are super slim, luckily I had a transmission jack from swapping out the transfer case on my old land rover.
Tools needed below:
16mm deep socket
Swivel joint, there's no getting around not having this for this job
long extensions and lots of em
band aids
Use a tranny jack to get the hitch in position (you could probably use a floor jack w some wood, but you may want another hand for that)
Align the 4 bolts that mount the main plate first, but super loose.
Then adjust to get the bolts for the vertical pillars, this takes some patience.
The space tolerance is soo damn slim in there will leave with bruised wrists from fighting the fuel tank cover. But it's doable.
I just ordered a license plate bracket for the rear to raise the plate up by 10mm
Still just planning on renting a trailer for the bike pickup or buying one? How' the garage situation looking like after you move up the coast? I'm in the process of house shopping in NJ so looking forward to having a garage.
How's the iCarSoft scanner? I've been reading up on which one to get that goes beyond the basic OBDII functions.
I got the iCarsoft below, it's fantastic. A bit archaic in use, but it goes through all of the electrical systems in the truck. Hoping to use in on my E63 this weekend when I replace the airmatic shocks up front.
Locked in a nice 1930s house in Seward Park in seattle. The garage is tiny, the only thing I hate about the house really. But it's a rental until we fully explore Seattle, or we may pivot and move to Vancouver since my wife's family is from Victoria.
The garage is key, on a side note a good buddy of mine who's big in the film world has me reallllly thinking about property in Idaho.
As far as trailers are concerned, likely renting one. I may be changing my project from a CX500 Cafe build to a TR6 to wrench on and eventually do a small single turbo 2JZ build.
But if this "work remote" thing becomes ever green, I may be an Idahoan lol
I got the iCarsoft below, it's fantastic. A bit archaic in use, but it goes through all of the electrical systems in the truck. Hoping to use in on my E63 this weekend when I replace the airmatic shocks up front. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Locked in a nice 1930s house in Seward Park in seattle. The garage is tiny, the only thing I hate about the house really. But it's a rental until we fully explore Seattle, or we may pivot and move to Vancouver since my wife's family is from Victoria.
The garage is key, on a side note a good buddy of mine who's big in the film world has me reallllly thinking about property in Idaho.
As far as trailers are concerned, likely renting one. I may be changing my project from a CX500 Cafe build to a TR6 to wrench on and eventually do a small single turbo 2JZ build.
But if this "work remote" thing becomes ever green, I may be an Idahoan lol
Good luck w the house hunt!
Seward Park is a nice area, I live just across the lake (Mercer Island)
We should really have a Seattle area G-wagen meet up...seems to be a few owners here on the forum and would be nice to meet up...
07-08-2020, 11:16 AM
