Anyone have experience with a trickle charger on these “mild hybrid” setups. I assume the hybrid setup is what is causing the issue.

I hooked up my CTEK to the G and received an error light. I thought it was a fluke, until I noticed it continuing to happen. I am charging as I did with my 2021 G wagon, using the posts under the hood with the tender set to “AGM.”

Any ideas?

 

That's a really unusual problem! I'm sure you already checked the obvious -- reverse polarity, bad connection, etc. All that's left to try is the standard tech support remedy -- unplug it, count to 20 and plug it back in. Hope you figure it out!

(BTW, I'll never buy a mild hybrid.)

 

Yes, I tried the items you mentioned, I have a few different CTEKs for for charging AGM batteries and I throw on another and see what happens.

I reached out to the dealership and they are going get back to me, gonna send a quick email to CTEK to see if they have any input.

 

Why not?

 

Aside from the confusion and uncertainty that a mild hybrid contributes to even the simple task of trickle charging, I dislike that any malfunction in this modest contributor to fuel economy, which is entirely nonessential to driving the vehicle normally using ICE power, renders the vehicle undriveable until remedied.

 

It's just an alternator deployed in reverse by a control module when the battery is fully charged. Most modern Mercedes have over 50 control modules already and could be rendered undriveable if the alternator or any of those modules went down anyways. So I don't think reliability will be an issue with mild hybrids and they have been around for at least 5-6 years now if not longer.

 

Yes, it's an integrated starter generator that alternates personalities between being an engine starter and a battery charger. Sounds simple until reality enters the equation. Yet maturing lithium battery technology that requires thermal regulation and a controller that by itself is reliable until software is introduced. There's no fuel economy guarantee, because the savings come with increased starts and stops. But my main objection is that its malfunction cripples the vehicle. IMO the system should allow at least enough normal driving without it to get you a service location. All that carbon emission reduction over the past 6 months get chewed up by the big honkin' diesel flatbed that drives 20 miles to your rescue.

 

@streborx I was considering getting one, but, only to transport my ebikes from home to the trails...that way I can ride my China made Carbon Fiber Slave Labor super fancy bike (S-Works Levo) to the trails for even more coal powered enjoyment...and pretend I am "doing my part".

As for the OP. I have had issues (same ****, different pile) in my Sprinter 2500 (Interstate Airstream). A trickle charger on the system gets very confused and was cycling all night as it did not know what was up. The vehicle, like yours has a lead-acid battery (starter) as well as AGM. To make matters worse for me, add in the solar and the charger had no idea what in the hell was going on.

We found (with much research) that the job of a trickle charger was easily offset by just driving the car for MORE THAN 30 MINUTES on a regular basis. Short drives from home to the office (under three miles) did not give the lead acid time to recharge from starting the thing. Long term the theory is to use the solar to recharge the AGM and keep it topped off...that has been complicated by the switcher-thing-er-majig-er.

In the Sprinter, to keep them separate, and charge both we have this -

https://invertersrus.com/product/pre...0aAlCHEALw_wcB

 

Agree but probably not much more complicated and trouble prone as the crazy cylinder deactivation feature.

 

Received this from CTEK:

Thank you for contacting CTEK.

We have started to hear about this kind of issues when it comes to 48V systems.

Some indications shows that you disconnect the 48V system if you charges with the hood open/closed. If you know if the hood was open whilst charging, please try again with the hood closed, please be careful when closing the hood to make sure the cables are not pinched,

If you know that the hood was closed when charging - try to charge with the hood opened.

Last night after receiving an error with the hood closed. I dug back into the CTEK manual which states the winter snowflake setting is “recommended for many AGM batteries…consult your battery manufacturer when in doubt.”

I figured I would try it in “normal” mode and see what happens. Came out this morning and there was no error and the battery was fully charged.

I will keep you updated.

I reached out to CTEK to see if there are any issues with using this setting as a long-term solution.

 

In your opening post, you did not indicate which Ctek charger model you're using. Ctek says its newest MXS 5.0 model no longer has the winter mode setting and automatically adjusts to the environment. You might try a newer version or an alternate brand. I use Noco chargers on all my cars without any problem, although none of the cars have 48 volt systems in them. Maybe the Ctek's 8 stage charging algorithm is so analytical that it's interfering with itself. Sometimes complexity doesn't win top prize.

 

I am using the 7002.

Ctek responded that it’s fine to charge it in the “normal” mode, the only difference is that it may take a little longer to charge.

Perhaps other chargers won’t have the issue I ran into, but I guess the problem is solved.

 

I hope I don’t have to purchase a different charger. I’m currently using a Yuassa battery charger.

 

I have several Noco chargers, and the one I use most is the 1A maintainer that sells for about $35. It's a wall wart mount with a long cable that reaches the charging terminals. Any time my car is parked for more than a week, I connect it.

 

Mine is wall mounted also, but the new design isn’t. Mine isn’t expensive, but it works. It’s only a 1 amp maintainer.