I did my 10k oil change about a year ago and was recently due for the 20k mi oil change. Although most oil changes aren't difficult, I wanted to know how much oil to pick up and what size sockets (canister is usually takes a non common one) to have ready. Surprisingly, there are not really any "how to" threads on something at simple as an oil change on a 2017 G63. You can find a few written instructions but I like to follow pictures so I thought I would document the job. There probably aren't many G63 owners who change their own oil but if this helps out even just one person, then it was worth the effort. I spent a total of $123 on the oil/filter from the dealer and it took me 30min of actual wrenching time, and maybe another 15 min of clean up. I don't do this to save money (although I'm sure the dealer charges much more!) but because I enjoy working on my own vehicles and I also like to make sure things are done properly. When you take your vehicle into the dealer for an oil change, its not the seasoned factory trained mechanic that gets to do it, but instead the high school auto shop drop out who over torques your drain plug and overfills the oil, all while leaving behind a huge dripping mess of oil.

All it takes are a few very basic hand tools, oil pan and funnel, 9L of oil, and the filter/o ring/ washer. 17mm socket/wrench for the skid plate, 13mm socket for the drain plug, seal pick for the o ring, torque wrench for the canister and drain plug. Not seen in the photo is the 27mm socket for the canister.




The stated capacity for the G63 is 8.5L, but that puts you on the low end of the dipstick. Just shy of 9 gets you right at the "Max" line. I always pick up a spare Liter as I go through at least one every 10k mi. Actually, the first 10k mi I went through 2. I'm assuming part of this was due to the break in. The last 10k consumed just over 1L, which is fairly normal. The filter comes with the o ring but the copper washer for the drain plug is extra. I usually replace this with every other oil change. Before starting, I get the truck up to operating temperature so the oil flows a bit better out of the drain.




The first step is actually the hardest part of the whole thing.... removing the front skid plate. It is probably 30lbs and kind of awkward to wrangle but a simple cardboard box (like the one a case of MB oil comes in) positioned underneath makes removing/reinstalling it a bit easier. There are a total of (4) 17mm bolts that hold it in place. The front two are held by captive nuts and easy to remove, the rear two require a wrench on the nut above while working the bolt itself with the socket wrench. Loosen the front, remove the rears, then carefully remove the fronts.






Next locate the 13mm drain plug on the PS of the oil pan. Directly above it is the alternator. Position your oil pan pretty far over towards the inside of the PS front tire as the oil really shoots out when you first undo the plug. However, keep an eye on it because when the flow decreases, it will come straight down and if your pan is not large enough, you will end up with a mess on your garage floor. I usually let it drain for a good 20 min. It will continue to slightly drip for a while after that, but there is practically no oil left behind after 15-20 min.




While the oil is draining, open the hood and locate the cover to the oil canister. It is really easy to get to and takes a 27mm socket. It may look like one of the intake pipes is in the way, but no need to remove anything as it will clear. You do have to tug on it a bit. Once out, you will have the canister lid attached to the oil filter. MB's canister is a great design that drains on the low side and does not leave any pool of oil inside, unlike the canister on my BMW. Pull on the filter and it will pop out of the canister lid. While not needed, a seal pick makes removing the o ring easy. A small screwdriver or even a paperclip/nail would work too. Throw away the old o ring and install the new one. Push the new filter into the canister lid. You may hear an audible "click." The filter center fits snugly on the pipe that is inside the actual canister so you will have to use a bit of force to push the filter/lid down. Hand tighten initially, then use the 27mm socket. It will take a few turns and some force to get it all the way down but you should be able to visually see it fully seat. While not necessary, its nice to check the torque with a wrench. The torque value is nicely printed on the canister lid (25 NM).








With the new filter installed, now is time to reinstall the drain plug and new (or reused) copper washer. If the washer did not come off with the drain plug, it will sometimes stick to the oil pan housing. If you forget to remove it and install a second, you may get a leak here. I couldn't find a torque value for this but 20 NM felt pretty good. You don't have to use a lot of force at all with a drain plug.




Next up is to add the new oil. If you have a steady hand, a funnel is not needed but makes this part much easier and less messy. Right off the bat I pour in 8.5L. That will get you just above the low mark on the dipstick. Start the truck and let it idle for a few minutes before shutting off and checking. I added another 0.4L which gets you to the max line. Now is a good time to check for leaks as well as check your brake and PS fluid. Don't check your coolant as it is likely under pressure, even with the engine off.




After ensuring there are no more leaks, I reinstall the skid plate, clean up my mess, and I am about done! I say "about" because there is one more step...resetting the service indicator light. This part takes all of 30 seconds. Turn the key to the second position (just before actually starting the truck). Then press and hold both the "Call" button on the right side of the steering wheel and the "Ok" button on the left side. You need to press the call button about a second before the OK button. After holding both for a few seconds, you will see this screen;




Scroll down (using the arrows and OK button on the left steering wheel) to "Assyst Plus" and press OK. Then scroll down to "Full Service" and press OK. It will then list a series of services. You do not select one, scroll to the bottom where it says "Confirm Full Service" and press OK. It will automatically log the appropriate service. Select YES, then CONFIRM. That's it, now you are officially done. I usually save windshield washer fluid bottles and use them for waste oil as they are relatively clear so its hard to overfill them. Any Walmart, Autozone, etc will take waste oil at no charge. Or in my case, I just give it to a buddy who has a M35 "Deuce and a Half" that will burn used motor oil.











If you have never changed your own oil but thought about it....do it. Its easy, kind of fun, satisfying, and gives you a chance to visually inspect other areas on the truck. Hell, it probably takes longer to drop off, fill out paperwork, and pick up the truck from the dealer than to just do it on your own.

 

Thank you so much for sharing your experience in changing the oil of your g63. I agree its nice to get your "hands a little dirty" and learn about the car. It a pleasure when filter is located on top and not bottom.. I just purchased a 2016 g63 and will do oil chg. in spring. I have been doing my own oil chg. on my 2009 Porsche 911 for years very easy also with top filter and save time & $$. Were do you get your filter parts and what brand do you like to use?? Also have you considered using evacuator pump instead of draining the oil??

Thanks for great details!!
Yukon

 

Super easy and the truck is tall enough you don't need a jack. Only thing I would add is that the oil shoots out sideways when warm so be aware not to scold your arm or make a mess on your garage floor.

 

Fantastic post, really appreciated it.
I found a Mercedes oil change kit 5w40 liqui moly 9 L, new plug, new seal for plug, oil filter and gasket all for below 100 USD.

Is it GOOD OIL? or should I go for the Mercedes brand?

Thank you,
LCL

 

I like to work on my cars too when I can. I would like to attempt an oil change myself.
I bought the oil and filter from a local parts store.
Didn’t realize O-ring and washer had to be changed.
Are these generic parts that I can order at local parts store? If so, what size?

 

Return the filter and get that from MB - it'll have the correct size o-ring/washer in the kit.

 

Perfect. Will do that.
thanks