fitting a trailer brake controller


Finding that wire and routing 10amp (or was it 30) wiring was all that was needed.
This integrated well as when I used the brake controller manually (with the switch I could reach from the drivers seat), the brake light went on and disconnected the cruise control.
No brake controller wires running from back to under dash, so hitch place had to run them when they put the Prodigy in, and also when dealer installed the hitch ($2k), they didn't program the computer to recognize the lights and took two trips back for them to figure it out. (plus one other because the back hatch wouldn't open after they finished).
The most annoying part of the whole thing is that they advertise this car towing houses and boats and whatever other giant contraptions, and then throw their hands up and say "oh, we can't support a brake controller and if you put one in then your on your own". The whole reason I bought this car is for the trailer and its promised towing capacity. Pretty ridiculous.
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If worse comes to worse i will just use fuse 71 for power and the center brake light as the trigger and just hook everything up myself but I let them know I would prefer to use the MB connector and that the car is sold as a capable tow vehicle so additional cost/parts and programming is unacceptable. I should have an update tues.
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One just needs to find a mechanic who is familiar with the towing kit. Here's a post by DR.DIESEL who installed one recently in a GL450. Folks who have questions might want to post a followup in that thread. I'll also include a DR.DIESEL link on my info page. MBUSA is not yet all that clueful when it comes to towing...
http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforu...6&postcount=10
Last edited by Wolfgang; Oct 31, 2006 at 10:24 AM.
I challenged the dealer to find the connector during the 1-3k checkup and even authorized 1 hour labor to give them a head start. I don't think they could find it (did'nt try to hard)so they gave my wife an estimate of 3 hrs ($395) to locate it and she really let them have it. So bad in fact that when I called to checkup on the status they said they located it and routed it to the rear fuse access panel for the 1 hr. charge.
They said they located it under the sub woofer and behind the rear sam unit. It has a green connector just as shown in wolfgang's post. I think you can reach it by pulling the pins and pulling back the right side of the spare tire well to reach it. Now I just need to pull the wires to the front and I am all set.
Does anyone know what the 4-pin connector looks like or better yet, have a link so I can buy one quickly?
Does anyone know what the 4-pin connector looks like or better yet, have a link so I can buy one quickly?
In the right wheel well near the fusebox there is a small green connector that "apparently" is to be used for an electric brake controller. There is a place on the fusebox to plug it in. However, no one from Mercedes could find the other end underneath the steering wheel. Despite pulling apart half the dash. It may be there somewhere, but...
As an alternative, consider a Tekonsha RF. It is not hard wired under the dash. The main control unit mounts on the trailer tongue, and then you have a remote unit plugged into the 12v outlet near your dash. It is a little more complicated to "pair" up the remote with the trailer controller, but you have the advantage of taking the controller with you no matter what trailer or tow vehicle you are using.
I hope that helps.
Now I traded my 2010 450 GL against a 2015 350 Gl bluetec and I decided to
use a Tekonsha Prodigy Rf to control the trailer brakes. Wow, no wiring needed and the installation costed me nothing. Just 4 screws in the trailer frame and the rest is plug in. This is the way to go! It works fantastic. The display can be installed on the dashboard and pluged in the cigarette lighter. The controller is fixed to the trailer frame with 4 screws. All you need is a 7way plug on the car and on the trailer. You also need a LED bypass adapter so the mercedes can control the LED lights. I just drove from Tucson to Denver with my 7000 lbs toy hauler and it worked great. I don't understand anymore why so mani MB owners mess around with wiring and under dash fitting of a brake controller.
For those looking to tow closer to the max tow rating, read the "Towing a big load?" thread and consider re-enforcing the hitch if you have an older (2007-2010?) GL. The newer GLs seem to have fixed the weak welds issue on the OEM hitch.
Good Luck.
Now I traded my 2010 450 GL against a 2015 350 Gl bluetec and I decided to
use a Tekonsha Prodigy Rf to control the trailer brakes. Wow, no wiring needed and the installation costed me nothing. Just 4 screws in the trailer frame and the rest is plug in. This is the way to go! It works fantastic. The display can be installed on the dashboard and pluged in the cigarette lighter. The controller is fixed to the trailer frame with 4 screws. All you need is a 7way plug on the car and on the trailer. You also need a LED bypass adapter so the mercedes can control the LED lights. I just drove from Tucson to Denver with my 7000 lbs toy hauler and it worked great. I don't understand anymore why so mani MB owners mess around with wiring and under dash fitting of a brake controller.
1) They already have a brake controller and don't want the hassle of selling/repurchasing/wasting money.
2) They don''t trust the RF mechanism. Not saying their distrust isn't misplaced, just that people tend to view dependability differently when anything wireless is involved in towing.
Last edited by 4everalone; Jul 21, 2016 at 11:13 AM.
It implies that the harness from this rear connection to the front driver footwell will be present, but I think this may be the case only on cars factory fitted with the trailer package.
My fairly early production car was not factory fitted and the dealer fitted the hitch and hitch wiring upon my purchase. Turns out they did not run the wiring to the front for the brake controller (and there wasn't any there factory fitted), but indeed the connector for this wiring is present near the rear fuse block ... I assume because a new SAM was fitted when hitch was installed.
Here's the answer to the hard part: the part number for the rear-to-front harness is 164 540 69 13. This is a little difficult to find in the parts system (EPC) and it's not listed in group 31 or 54 but in group 99. $36 msrp, $24 + freight ordered online.
I've obtained this harness and for sure the connector will mate with the green connector floating in the rear compartment, and the green connector at the other end does indeed mate with the connector block that the DTB lists for making a harness to the controller. It's all color coded the same green and the fuse holder that's part of the harness is also color coded to the correct (72) empty spot on the rear fuse block.
When I'm back from Christmas travel, I'll pay dealer to install this harness. Until now I've only pulled my motorcycle trailer which has surge brakes as opposed to electric brakes and I haven't needed a brake controller. Now step-daughter has horse trailer with electric brakes and I'd like to be able to loan her my car on occasion, as her ancient pickup isn't really long highway trip usable.
BTW, the "weak welds" on my hitch were corrected long ago via factory recall or service campaign.
Last edited by lkchris; Dec 12, 2016 at 05:21 PM.






