Lease vs. Finance vs Baloon help?
I called my accountant yesterday to re-confirm what I had written in the above post and what I said was re-confirmed.
The only miles that you put on a car that are tax deductible are what he calls "business point to business point miles." So in my case, as a physician, I can't even deduct the mileage driving from my home to the office in the morning. I couldn't deduct the mileage if I drove from my house to a hospital in the morning. However, if I leave the first hospital and drive to a second hospital, I can decuct the mileage from hospital A to hospital B, because that is "business point to business point mileage." I think you can make these deductions whether you own or lease a car as long as the car useage fits the rules. So in my case I don't "business" drive enough to get tax dedcutions. I also could deduct miles driven for continuing education.
It seems to me that the only people who can benefit from the tax rules are sales people who are on the road all the time as their business. And that makes sense, the IRS wants to limit the deduction to people who's business requires the driving. It's the same as trying to legally deduct costs of a "home office", it's hard to do legally, by design of the IRS.
But isn't that really fair. Remember, any tax deduction that anyone else gets, is ultimatley being paid for by someone else in their taxes.
#1 I lease AND I pamper and love my GL. I have as much or more pride in that thing than most that own them. That chest pounding "I own it" is comical!
#2 99% of cars are not investments, therefore they have NO equity! What some of you are calling equity is not what I would call equity. If you owe $20K and you sell a car for $25K - that is not equity. It's getting $5K back that you already paid. Equity is something you get above the original purchase price and all costs incurred. Fact is, if you trade every 2-3 years - you are possibly wasting money that could be sitting in a growth product that would help make the payments on the vehicle.
#3 There are very legit deductions for leasing for the right people. Owning for a business person allows a 5 year depreciation. Most do not keep cars that long, therefore can only depreciate 3 years worth...so if you do not drive a gazillion miles - you should do the math on a lease.
#4 The point about dealers making more money on a lease - well, you can negotiate the cap cost of a lease - therefore the cost of the vehicle would be the same if purchased. The fees generally go to the finance company, not the dealer. The return of the customer is true if you buy or lease. The re-sale of the first leased vehicle is not a concern for the first customer, I'm happy the dealer will have a nice clear car to sell and make money on - I want them in business next time I am shopping. And if the residual is lower than what they are selling for at the time I have the option of buying it and re-selling for a profit...yes, it does happen!
#5 Many people on this board paid thousands for extended warranties. Those that lease the right way, do not have too...we are always under warranty.
It's the same as trying to legally deduct costs of a "home office", it's hard to do legally, by design of the IRS.[/QUOTE]
Hard to do legally? It's part of the tax code and quite simple if you do not get greedy. % of house used for business...pretty simple stuff. A good accountant that is worth her or his salt will work through the "design of the IRS" and make sure their customers are not overpaying their taxes.
#1 I lease AND I pamper and love my GL. I have as much or more pride in that thing than most that own them. That chest pounding "I own it" is comical!
#2 99% of cars are not investments, therefore they have NO equity! What some of you are calling equity is not what I would call equity. If you owe $20K and you sell a car for $25K - that is not equity. It's getting $5K back that you already paid. Equity is something you get above the original purchase price and all costs incurred. Fact is, if you trade every 2-3 years - you are possibly wasting money that could be sitting in a growth product that would help make the payments on the vehicle.
#3 There are very legit deductions for leasing for the right people. Owning for a business person allows a 5 year depreciation. Most do not keep cars that long, therefore can only depreciate 3 years worth...so if you do not drive a gazillion miles - you should do the math on a lease.
#4 The point about dealers making more money on a lease - well, you can negotiate the cap cost of a lease - therefore the cost of the vehicle would be the same if purchased. The fees generally go to the finance company, not the dealer. The return of the customer is true if you buy or lease. The re-sale of the first leased vehicle is not a concern for the first customer, I'm happy the dealer will have a nice clear car to sell and make money on - I want them in business next time I am shopping. And if the residual is lower than what they are selling for at the time I have the option of buying it and re-selling for a profit...yes, it does happen!
#5 Many people on this board paid thousands for extended warranties. Those that lease the right way, do not have too...we are always under warranty.
Also, sales tax. On a purchase (assuming no trade) you pay 100% up front. On a lease, you pay it monthly. Granted you do pay tax on the interest but that is a rather small incremental piece.
Also, sales tax. On a purchase (assuming no trade) you pay 100% up front. On a lease, you pay it monthly. Granted you do pay tax on the interest but that is a rather small incremental piece.
#1 I lease AND I pamper and love my GL. I have as much or more pride in that thing than most that own them. That chest pounding "I own it" is comical!
#2 99% of cars are not investments, therefore they have NO equity! What some of you are calling equity is not what I would call equity. If you owe $20K and you sell a car for $25K - that is not equity. It's getting $5K back that you already paid. Equity is something you get above the original purchase price and all costs incurred. Fact is, if you trade every 2-3 years - you are possibly wasting money that could be sitting in a growth product that would help make the payments on the vehicle.
#3 There are very legit deductions for leasing for the right people. Owning for a business person allows a 5 year depreciation. Most do not keep cars that long, therefore can only depreciate 3 years worth...so if you do not drive a gazillion miles - you should do the math on a lease.
#4 The point about dealers making more money on a lease - well, you can negotiate the cap cost of a lease - therefore the cost of the vehicle would be the same if purchased. The fees generally go to the finance company, not the dealer. The return of the customer is true if you buy or lease. The re-sale of the first leased vehicle is not a concern for the first customer, I'm happy the dealer will have a nice clear car to sell and make money on - I want them in business next time I am shopping. And if the residual is lower than what they are selling for at the time I have the option of buying it and re-selling for a profit...yes, it does happen!
#5 Many people on this board paid thousands for extended warranties. Those that lease the right way, do not have too...we are always under warranty.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Also you miss the point on equity.. yes equity is only built when something appreciates, but in my analysis, I was referring to equity as value of the car over and above what you owe the bank when you trade.. and if you do that math over 10 plus yrs of car ownership and compare lease every three years vs buy and trade every 3 yrs, you will come ahead if you buy unless of course your business situation allows you to deduct all lease payments.
Also you miss the point on equity.. yes equity is only built when something appreciates, but in my analysis, I was referring to equity as value of the car over and above what you owe the bank when you trade.. and if you do that math over 10 plus yrs of car ownership and compare lease every three years vs buy and trade every 3 yrs, you will come ahead if you buy unless of course your business situation allows you to deduct all lease payments.
If buying you can depreciate the total cost of the vehicle over 5 years along with yearly operating costs, gas, oil, maintenance, car washes, XM, upgardes, etc.. as a portion of you business use. I was audited back a few years ago with my ML430 and I had to submit copies of my trip records -mileage report along with a copy of the door sticker that showed that the GVW was over the threshold, I think by about 28 pounds.
Keep in mind when leasing that while you can negotiate the cost of the vehicle the residual value is based on a % of MSRP and not what you negotiated so at the end of the lease term you should try and negotiate again on the price or just walk away.
Here is the link to the 31 page PDF file from the IRS on how to take a tax deduction for the part of your home you use for business?
http://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-pdf/p587.pdf
Hardly "quite simple" as you said. Yes an accountant can figure it out, that's what they do.
My point was that the IRS puts "a lot of hoops to jump through" to get the deductions legally. They want to limit the people who can take the deduction.
Here is the link to the 31 page PDF file from the IRS on how to take a tax deduction for the part of your home you use for business?
http://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-pdf/p587.pdf
Hardly "quite simple" as you said. Yes an accountant can figure it out, that's what they do.
My point was that the IRS puts "a lot of hoops to jump through" to get the deductions legally. They want to limit the people who can take the deduction.
Here is the link to the 31 page PDF file from the IRS on how to take a tax deduction for the part of your home you use for business?
http://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-pdf/p587.pdf
Hardly "quite simple" as you said. Yes an accountant can figure it out, that's what they do.
My point was that the IRS puts "a lot of hoops to jump through" to get the deductions legally. They want to limit the people who can take the deduction.
but I want my accountant working as hard for his money as I do for mine. It's their job to know the hoops and work the system.
BJ
Now an argument for leasing. My wife had a fender bender with our leased Audi. It was repaired to perfection (at least to the visible eye.) Unfortunately, when I tried to sell the Audi 6 months before lease-end (42 mo), the buyer had a meter that detected the change in paint thickness. The price dropped to $4K less than payoff, so it turned out to be cheaper to keep the car until the end of the lease (only $2850 in payments.) Leases have a negoiated resale value that protects you from accident history based loss of value.
That said, I normally keep my cars 3-4 years & my mileage is predictable. So, I always compare total lease cost versus total finance cost. My GL (very high residual/low MF) was cheaper to lease, but my SL (high residual/high MF) was cheaper to finance (low APR.) Of course if I get in a fender bender with the SL, I may end up losing $5k on the deal.
Now an argument for leasing. My wife had a fender bender with our leased Audi. It was repaired to perfection (at least to the visible eye.) Unfortunately, when I tried to sell the Audi 6 months before lease-end (42 mo), the buyer had a meter that detected the change in paint thickness. The price dropped to $4K less than payoff, so it turned out to be cheaper to keep the car until the end of the lease (only $2850 in payments.) Leases have a negoiated resale value that protects you from accident history based loss of value.
That said, I normally keep my cars 3-4 years & my mileage is predictable. So, I always compare total lease cost versus total finance cost. My GL (very high residual/low MF) was cheaper to lease, but my SL (high residual/high MF) was cheaper to finance (low APR.) Of course if I get in a fender bender with the SL, I may end up losing $5k on the deal.
Now an argument for leasing. My wife had a fender bender with our leased Audi. It was repaired to perfection (at least to the visible eye.) Unfortunately, when I tried to sell the Audi 6 months before lease-end (42 mo), the buyer had a meter that detected the change in paint thickness. The price dropped to $4K less than payoff, so it turned out to be cheaper to keep the car until the end of the lease (only $2850 in payments.) Leases have a negoiated resale value that protects you from accident history based loss of value.
That said, I normally keep my cars 3-4 years & my mileage is predictable. So, I always compare total lease cost versus total finance cost. My GL (very high residual/low MF) was cheaper to lease, but my SL (high residual/high MF) was cheaper to finance (low APR.) Of course if I get in a fender bender with the SL, I may end up losing $5k on the deal.
Agreed on the car problems and leasing - you get a near lemon or just a bunch of issues and you can eventually walk away from the problem car if you leased. When you buy your stuck with it and can only hope you can get out of it without too much loss.
Forget the baloon, I see that as a rip-off.
I lease all my vehicles, except my Prius because I'm planning on keeping the car for five years, and more. The same goes for my 3 BMW's, I paid cash, and I don't think I'll sell them anytime soon. Everything else I can't stand it after 2-3 years, I change vehicles that often.
Rates have been around 6.35% recently...that's on the low side. Credit unions and special deals are lower, i.e. MBUSA is currently offering 4.99% on certain models. Although, that doesn't help if you want to buy a model like the 550, which currently has no special offers.
I found Chase to currently have the lowest auto rate. They just gave me 5.84% and knocked off another .25 if you have your payment deducted from a Chase account. So the final rate was 5.59% for 60 months. That's pretty dang good.







