FYI and please correct if you disagree. I took this info from the maintenance booklet.

1. Oil/filter change every 10K
2. fuel filter change every 20K
3. Replace brake fluid every 2 years
4. Cabin filter change every 30K
5. Engine air filter every 40K
6. ATF and filter change every 40K
7. coolant change at 150K
8. there is no timing belt. The serpentine (accessory belt) has no scheduled replacement and is to be inspected every 20K miles.
9. front diff, rear diff, transfer case fluids--no scheduled interval--it says to "review" at 150K miles

 

What's to disagree with if it's printed in the maintenance booklet?

I agree that's what's printed there if that's what you're looking for.

Mercedes engines have timing chains and not timing belts.

All intervals specified are quite reasonable and the only one that's even a little questionable is the brake fluid change (too often) but it's not worth fighting it.

If your GL320CDI is a 2007 or 2008 and the trans fluid hasn't been changed yet, there's some advantage to doing so early because a new specification fluid is now distributed that improves transmission operating characteristics. 7-speed transmission fluid changes are basically impossible for DIY.

 

Thanks Kent...
I was just checking to see if anyone disagreed with the maintenance intervals. Esp the diff fluids not having scheduled replacement. But many cars say lifetime for the rear diff so probably not too important.

Anyway, that is interesting info on the ATF. We have not been happy with some of the low speed downshifting. Will the dealer cover the change over to the new fluid? Is there a TSB on it? we only have 4K miles so far.

 

ANB... Good summary... That is the same as what I have noted.

I just completed a 30K mile service on our 2007 GL320. Since I had to remove the Engine Air filter housings to get to the fuel filter, I went ahead and replaced them as well (sourced from Autohaus). They were actually pretty dirty (lots of insects) so I am glad I did it at 30K rather than waiting till 40K.

 

Danno - how do you access the air filter?

 

It is pretty easy to disagree when the 'book' insists on a fleece oil filter (several places) and one can't be obtained from any source - including a dealer! If they messed that up, what else is questionable?

Oil change interval of 10k mi for the CDI engines has been the subject of some discussion, Drivbiwire and others have noted that, providing the proper full synthetic oils are used, the 10k interval may be unnecessarily conservative. It was apparently put in at the insistence of MBUSA to "simplify" their dealer's training [And to increase dealre income?]. It has been noted that the european change intervals are variable. The car's computer - european models - specifies oil change intervals up to 19k mi based on the driving conditions YOU use.

In my case, I drive many more highway miles than short, cold miles. I am quite comfortable extending my OCIs to 15k mi. I am quite sure I am not damaging the engine by extending the change interval.

 

Reviving old thread

Curious if there are any other specific items that would be suggested as preventative maintainence on higher mileage vehicles before eventual failure.

I have 136 on an 08 cdi currently and love the vehicle. I put probably 25k+ a year and hoping to keep a long time.

 

I would send your oil to Blackstone for testing and decide. There are members who test here and 7500 seems to be the number for oil changes. 10K is high.

Buy an oil extractor and it is a 32mm nut to open the oil filter housing. An oil change is around $80 DIY. Takes me 10min to do an oil change. Plenty of DIY videos on YouTube if you need help.

 

Thanks I was curious about the intervals I usually change at 7500. Even if early feel safer. Was thinking about sending off just to see. Was disappointed that the 5w40 mobile 1 was dropped. I switched to castrol edge 5w40. Much harder and more expensive. I figured I had 120 on a 40 wt oil and did not want to drop to a thinner viscosity. Do seem to be burning less then with the mobile 1 and not having to add.

Really looking for small items my independent might be missing that are are not on the list. Other the obvious such as brakes ,mounts ect.

I am am on the road a lot and if there is a known week point I would like to change before it gets me. I figured others could benefit as well.

 

Still available on Amazon. I don't buy it though.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000SKV4RA..._tiZhybH0WMT38

 

No that's not approved for our engines. That's a different 5w40 formula. Iirc it will clog up the dpf. Ours was the ESP formula.

 

Interesting the book says 10,000 miles for an oil change.

 

that was the highly optimistic projection that led to many a OM642s early demise.

 

It's that or every year. Works fine in my experience.

If you have a 2007-8 it's interesting to know that specification 229.52 came out following production of these vehicles and is applicable to them. It basically means fuel saving 5W-30 as opposed to 229.51 5W-40.

Both specifications are full synthetic, meaning 10K miles is a walk in the park. It also means outside air temperature is irrelevant.

My '07 diesel was the first diesel I'd ever purchased new and its motor oil remained golden for about 3K miles. After that and ever since it's the usual diesel engine black.

Your '07 or '08 came from factory with yellow/gold G05 specification antifreeze. This has since been superseded by blue G48 formula. G05 is no longer available from Mercedes, but can be obtained from Valvoline/Zerex, (NAPA) as it remains specified for Chryslers. FYI BASF of Germany is the world's largest chemical company and their antifreeze brand is Glysantin, which is where G numbers come from.

I changed the gear oils on my '07 at around 10 years/75K miles. The differential oils came out looking brand new. Not so much for the ATF in the transfer case. Transfer case change requires new crush washers. Differential changes require new drain plugs since they come from Mercedes with new o-rings, metal washers not used. Transmission fluid/filter changes require new bolts for the pan, since the bolts are aluminum and stretched when tightened.

Not mentioned in original post or any subsequent posts is that B5 is the only approved biodiesel.

 

Also not mentioned above is fact that an air filter change on the diesel requires a computer reset. Adaptations.

 

Excuse me? What now?

I've had mine for almost 9 years, changed the filters a few times, never ran any adaptations before. What are you resetting? Some kind of airflow parameter or something??

 

See WIS document AR09.10-P-0980GZB Replace Air Filter Element

See step 22

 

Cool, thanks for that, I’ll try it tomorrow. I’m betting it’s more of just a service reminder thing. Unless there is some kind of manometer installed the air system somewhere??

 

I think lots of diesels have monitoring systems for air intake restriction.

maybe not so much Mercedes

https://search.yahoo.com/search?p=di...iction&fr=ipad