Max Blast

Hi,

Longtime lurker but first time poster. I'm looking to acquire a GL320/350 within the next 6 mos but I'm doing my homework now.
My question is:
What's involved in the service intervals and what are dealers charging for it?
Thanks.

atwal

service A is usually $180+ to $250 at dealer assuming you use cupons. I do A & B myself so it much cheaper for me than this price.

nelson09

Where are you located? If you are in socal most definately worth a trip to ///HMS, see Serge at Hyevon. His shop is there on site.

harbormotorsports.com/default.html -

Max Blast

250 ish is not too bad, considering it's an MB. I'm trying to get an idea what the services I have to get done at the dealer will cost me, from hearing this I guess I can do A and B myself. I plan on keeping this car 10+ years, are there any enourmously expensive ones coming at higher mileages?

Cal

Note that for the GL350, you will need to have AdBlue added at every service interval. The dealer will charge you an extra couple hundred dollars for this, but you should be able to do this yourself for about $50. You can buy the Adblue at a VW dealership for that much. More info available in other threads in this forum.

ima55r2

I don't know what service is involved, but I read somewhere that changing the fuel filter is not a driveway option because of the high pressures involved and special tools are required.

dgiturbo

Fuel filter can be replaced yourself. The high pressure is after the engine driven pump, and the filter is before, so very little residual pressure. The only special tool needed is a clamp pliers. I used my needle nose.

Go with the diesel model. It will save you a lot in fuel over the 10 year life you want to keep it.

Max Blast

Diesel for sure. I haven't even considered the gasser versions.
I found the 2010 service manual and apart from the adblue fillups every 10k and flush every 20, it calls for fuel filter replacement every 20 k as well.
Good to hear that is DIY. Other than that, a tranny flush at 150 (driving style permitting) and a coolant replacement around 120k seems to be it...apart from the "AdBlue" which really is DEF that complies with the given ASTM standard for DEF (which I cannot think of right now)....available at any truck stop for pennies on the dealer dollar and also DIY.
Did anyone ever do a dealer filter replacement and how much did that cost?

stonecliff

First time around, the dealer charged ~$100 labor to replace the fuel filter. Did it myself yesterday (along with the air filters). It's a surprisingly long job on the 2007 320, as there is a lot of dismantling to do. But it can be done without special tools (as long as you have a fairly complete metric set, including star bits).

SkinnyVanilla

There will be no DIY for my wife's GL 320 . Just went in to dealer for 10K mile service. Close to $700; about $170 of that for the AdBlue.

+1 on "go for the diesel."

ima55r2

It's good to hear the fuel filter doesn't have to be replaced at the dealer. I don't think I will give it a shot though and just let my guy do it.

Max Blast

Ouch. Thanks for that tidbit!

scottybdiving

I paid; A $250 B $416. Tranny flushed at 40K. No Adblue.

43221B

Wow. Could you break down your bill for us? Mine was around $250 too but I declined the adblue.

Franman

I just paid ~$250 for 10k Service A and that included a $30 tire rotation on my 2009 GL550

SkinnyVanilla

Labor for 10K service $264
Parts (incl $161 AdBlue) $254

Force Balance 4 wheel $90 (because reported vibration at highway speed)

9 quarts Mobil 1 $51
Environmental fee $25
Tax $25

Total $709

43221B

OK, so if you remove the adblue and the balancing you are at $365. I checked my bill and I was charged $278 and they didn't rotate my tires. So while expensive, maybe if the dealer is in an expensive area their charge isn't too out of line. Having done the adblue myself, I just don't get how they can justify that price. My dealer is just as expensive. Honestly, it's like filling a push mower with gas. Other than putting windshield washer fluid in the reservoir, there couldn't be anything easier.

rich4368

Atwal,

I am thinking to try DIY service A on my 2010 GL350 at around 9500 mile. I have done a lot of DIY on my older lexus but never on GL. Actually called Mercedes dealer for service A they quoted $250 and later corrected with $380 said it's Bluetec. I have heard people said using pump to extract the engine oils but some said sludge might remain on the bottom. Did you also drain from the bottom after extract with a pump? Could you list out all the parts and equipment you used? I don't have a pump need to buy one. Is it the standard Mobile 1 synthetic oils that you used?

lkchris

Sludge is something found in 'merikun cars of the 1970s using dino oil.

It's not a problem with a 21st century Mercedes and synthetic oil (which is all that's approved).

Suck that oil out the dipstick tube.

Your diesel requires VERY SPECIFIC Mobil 1 and there is ONLY ONE version of Mobil 1 that's approved. That is Formula M ESP. (It's 5W-40, but that's meaningless). Anything else ruins your diesel particulate filter and that will be expensive and not covered under warranty if you do it. Don't even add a quart of anything else between oil changes, in fact. Notification that oil meets MB specification 229.51 must be PRINTED ON THE BOTTLE.

nynd

Wow - he paid $51 for 9 quarts of oil? I bought some from Pep Boys at $8/bottle -> so at 9 bottles, thats $72. Dealer actually sold for less or was it some other oil?

alx

No on the sucking. Sucking is for boat motors. Engine oil pan is internally braced and baffled so you cannot suck all the oil. And unless you suck it within 5 minutes of shutting off the motor all heavy harmful parts which are usually suspended in the oil will go to the bottom and not get sucked.

Also no on the absolute requirement for the 229.51 oil. It is desirable, but the old 0w40 is still ok. Even the manual says that if you are low on oil the regular 0w40 is ok to add.

Popo

Both Mercedes and BMW "suck" the oil out thru the dipstick at the dealership, and have done so for at least the last 10 years to my knowledge.

There is no issue to doing this, although some believe draining from the bottom of the oil pan is better. Personally i believe the dealership method is easier, faster, cleaner and just as effective.

drgeeforce

My DIY A/B was about 3 hrs: MityVac
Mobil1 Diesel $24/gal x2=$48 @ Walmart
oil filter Mahle $3.83 + @FCP Euro
DEF 11.88/2.5galx2= $24 @ Walmart
Fuel Filter Mahle $26.95 @ FCP Euro
Air Filter Meyle $35.95 @ FCP Euro
Cabin Filter $47.55@ FCP Euro
Checked Brakes, washer fluid, brake fluid, ATF fluid.
Did not rotate tires.
No environmental Fee
Tax 7.02 @ Walmart
Total $193.30
So, I got paid about $170/hr.

N_Jay

Can we all say "WRONG" together.


1) Many German cars use suction oil extraction.
From my understanding it is illegal to drain oil from the bottom in Germany due to some (probably overbearing) anti-pollution law. (May actually be an exaggeration of the law)


2) For CDI and Bluetec diesels you can not add ANY oil that does not meet the low ash requirements.


EDIT:

OOPs, just noticed I answered a 4 year old post.

phantomcypher

AB service here is $570 + tax. Hourly work rate $121 x 3 hours.....plus your parts....

$555.30

I think I'd rather pay someone a few bucks more and have their grease monkey go crazy under the hood while I sip on a French Vanilla in the waiting area...