mdadgar

Is that 6000 PLUS the trailer or 6000 INCLUDING the trailer?

- Mark

rabtech

Well lets add the stuff up.
2002 Boss Hoss Trike 1500 lbs
2002 Boss Hoss Bike 1000 lbs
2006 Boss Hoss Bike 1000 lbs
2006 Triumph Rocket III 750 lbs
2003 Honda VTX 1800R 750 lbs

i am estimating here. I am close to 5000 lbs but not dead on. And this is PACKED with the trike all the way in the nose and the 4 staggered very closely. I don't usually pull all of these. I usually pull just the BOSS HOSS products.

And the trailer is the one in the pic. I don't know exactly what it weighs but you can get an idea. The trike in the v-nose makes it pull really good. It gives it just the right balance and plenty of tongue weight. You need a little weight on the tongue to keep the sway out.

I used to have a hybrid tahoe and it did very well. EXCEPT it would sway. I actually had to use a camper hitch with a sway bar hooked up. When I started using the Mercedes ML and GL i never had a problem. I haven't even used the sway bar since. Both are 4-matic. I am wondering if this helps the sway?

ysgi

[quote=rabtech;4203339]I have both a 2010 gl550 and a 2010 ml550. I can tell you both have no problem pulling a 7x20 v-nosed enclosed trailer well into the triple digits. quote]

rabtech

[QUOTE=ysgi;4204865]I actually would agree with you. I only tried it in the triple digits a couple of time. There is a road "hwy. 24" it is a straight 4 lane with a huge grass median. It hardly every has a car on it. I was on it when I tried it. I was so impressed with the 550 power. I could easily run 110 with no effort. I poked 120 for a few seconds. Everybody has to see what is possible once in a while The Tahoe was always under a bind. It was also governed at 98mph.

I usually pull it at 85 on the interstate. Maximum 90

Didnt mean to come off like a madman....

vntgspd

[quote=rabtech;4204919]You are a madman. Thankfully, it appears that you are nowhere near me.

Bad things happen when a trailer tire blows at 65mph, I'd hate to see what happens at 100mph.

Glad to hear of the positive experience though. I too am going from a Tahoe (non-hybrid) to a GL and looking forward to it.

mdadgar

So I did end up buying a 2011 GL350 and this past weekend I finally got a chance to tow my race trailer with it. Pic of rig attached.

I have not reinforced my stock receiver, however it has definitely been redesigned by MBZ since the other pics in this thread were posted (I put up a pic of it in another thread a while back).

This is an exceptional tow vehicle - WAY, WAY better than my 2007 Escalade ESV was. I could not be happier.

Some mileage comparisons using the same trailer and route at 62 mph:

7.5 mpg - 2007 Escalade ESV
10.50-11.0 mpg - 2002 GMC 2500HD Duramax diesel
12.0 mpg - 2011 Mercedes GL350 Bluetec

Note that I also use a ProPride 3P Hitch, which is TOTALLY worth the rather lofty price tag. No sway AT ALL. EVER. I would not tow a tag without a 3P hitch ever again (short of a diesel dually pickup). Yes, it's expensive, but my GL350 + trailer + race car come out to a much, much higher total.

http://www.propridehitch.com/

Oh, and for those curious about the car, I attached a pic of that, too.



- Mark

emayer

AWESOME!

A few questions since I tow a similar load. Were you able to determine tongue weight? Did you add mirror extensions? If so, any recommendations on brand?

Thx for the feedback....

stmeme

After lots of research I bought these mirrors
https://www.makariosrv.com/products/...-Products.html

Expensive but so is the GL

If you google the manufacturer milenco, you'll find lots of great reviews of the aero grand. I had to email Milenco to find out where I could buy them this side of the pond.

I mount them with the bar on the top of my mirrors so they have lots of clearance when folded in. Personally tested to 85mph... Very little vibration as advertised.

mdadgar

Ahh, awesome find! The stock mirrors are usable, but make backing up a real nightmare (and I have to back down my street as I live on a cul de sac).

Ordering now!

- Mark

emayer

Excellent recommendation. Thx!

mdadgar

So I ordered a set of these as well and I did my first tow with them to Laguna Seca last week.

They rock. If you tow with the GL, buy a set.

Thanks to stmeme for the pointer.

- Mark

MRAMG1

Thanks for the tip guys

As the stock mirrors really do stink for towing, or for that matter driving

EWT

Great tip on the mirrors. Backing blind down a narrow boat ramp isn't much fun.

hbillsmith

Live in Allen and I need the same work done.
Thanks,
Bill

ddruker

I also purchased those mirrors - they work great - thanks for the link. While the stock mirrors stink for towing, the backup camera is great for hitting the hitch ball.

I just posted about our good results towing a 27 foot Airstream 3000 miles over the last three weeks in the main towing thread here - https://mbworld.org/forums/gl-class-...ml#post5285609

Question - are you "heavy load" folks watching your tire pressure when towing? My rear tires heated up to where they were running at 45 to 46 PSI at freeway speed on hot (100+ degree) days - vs. 38 PSI cold. Anyone know if this is problematic? I have the stock run-flats which are labeled to allow for a max pressure of 51 PSI cold, so I assume I was still way within spec.

mdadgar

Yes, I keep an eye on the pressures. Generally low/mid-40s is what I see in the rear.

- Mark

joelans

I have a 2008 GL450, towing Passport 3220BH with an Equalizer weight distribution hitch. The trailer is 600 lbs dry hitch weight, and max of 7,400 lbs fully loaded. The GL450 is fully capable of pulling (I pulled it before getting the hitch reinforced), except for the weak OEM hitch. Can barely tell that there is something behind you, other than looking at the tachometer that changes gears at a higher RPM. So, I had significant upgrades done to the weak OEM hitch. Attached are some pictures. Thanks to all in this string for the ideas, and especially Andy at Can Am who provided me the initial picture and instructions.

As you can see, there are two (one on each side) 1/4" thick triangular steel supports welded from the main hitch bar to the receiver drop down. Then, they welded a 2" square tube to a flat piece which is then welded to the back of the receiver drop down on one end and to a flange on the opposite end. The flange is then bolted to the suspension cross-member with two grade 8 bolts. Since the 2" square tube goes from the receiver to the cross-member, it goes above the air tank, which is dropped down about 2" with "bolt extenders".

This looks like it should now tow anything I want up to the 7,500 lb max, while still exceeding the OEM 600 lb tongue weight limit. With this drop down supports on both sides and the 2" tube to the suspension cross-member, it is much stronger now. Also, with the way this shop did it, it looks like it was standard from Mercedes! (at least to me). Also, I called Mercedes support, and they did say you can use a weight distribution hitch with the OEM hitch.

hbillsmith

Using the Andersen Weight Distribution hitch and it's working great. My hitch does not look like any of these older models, perhaps MB has upgraded it though I still have the 600# hitch weight limit. I've checked after trips many times and see no distress cracks etc. My trailer is rated at 505#s on the hitch although I have had as much as 800# from loading the storage bin too much. The Andersen is the lightest WD hitch so it doesn't use up as much of the available 600 as others. I've CAT scaled many times and it basically moves about 100# forward to the drive axle and 150# back to the trailer. I use a separate tongue weight scale to manage the tongue. It usually means moving some goods out of storage into the rear of the trailer. Not really a big deal.

deckerfl

After reading this thread and others, I decided to re-enforce my hitch. I called around but no-one really seemed to want to do it except Machine shops. I pulled off my hitch / tow bar, mostly following another thread for removing the rear bumper for an ML, GL is very similar. Then removed the interior bolts, 8, 16mm nuts, using a 5/8' combo wrench, because it fit a bit more snuggly on the nut than my 16mm. I was worried about stripping these, but they were really not that tight. then removed the 4 exterior big bolt (22mm socket?) that connect the tow bar to the frame. pull back the wiring and the tow bar was off. by this time I had learned that my wife's co-worked had a MIG welder and he offered to help me. I ordered some 3/8" thick A36 steel from onlinemetals.com, and cut out gussets. I cut 4 but ended up using only 2. Sanded all the areas to be welded, and brought over a bottle of wine for my new welding friend. and now have a re-enforced hitch receiver. The OEM drop plates were welded only on the outside, he did the insides, and any other obvious places that needed added welding then added the gussets one on each side welding between the tow bar and the OEM drop plates. I'll see if I can post some pictures. I'll test it out this weekend on my 30 foot travel trailer (dry, 650 lbs tongue weight and 6050 lbs). Wish me luck, I'm leaving the rear bumper off for a the weekend to inspect for cracks.

deckerfl

Some pics of the re-enforced Hitch.

hbillsmith

[QUOTE=hbillsmith;5686801]Using the Andersen Weight Distribution hitch and it's working great. My hitch does not look like any of these older models, perhaps MB has upgraded it though I still have the 600# hitch weight limit. I've checked after trips many times and see no distress cracks etc. My trailer is rated at 505#s on the hitch although I have had as much as 800# from loading the storage bin too much. The Andersen is the lightest WD hitch so it doesn't use up as much of the available 600 as others. I've CAT scaled many times and it basically moves about 100# forward to the drive axle and 150# back to the trailer. I use a separate tongue weight scale to manage the tongue. It usually means moving some goods out of storage into the rear of the trailer. Not really a big deal.
[/QUOTE

UPDATE: December 2015 - MB Auto leveling airbags failed, oops $1400 repair bill. Turned out that using a leveraging weight distribution hitch with the MB GL's airbags puts extra stress on that system and after a few thousand miles towing, it will fail. You cannot turn off the autolevel. The end of this story is I now drive a GMC 2500HD and tow a fifth

RostamDastan

[QUOTE=hbillsmith;6734729]Sorry to hear about your air suspension issues. They seem to happen to vehicles that do not tow as well. Towing, of course, will exasperate the issue.

How did your hitch receiver hold up? Did it ever have any cracks or deformations? I am thinking of getting an Andersen hitch, and like to know if its hard on the receiver or not.

Thanks!

mikapen

[QUOTE=RostamDastan;6738948]Our ML Bluetec is towing champ. Possibly better than a GL because of the shorter rear overhang, which improves stability (ratio of rear overhang to wheelbase).
We tow a 27' travel trailer, @6,000 lbs and @620 lbs on the tongue.
It doesn't make sense that a WDH would be harder on an air suspension, since it reduces load on the rear suspension and should require less leveling from the air system.

Regarding the Andersen, yes, it does increase strain on hitch parts, because it's urethane bushing has much less range of motion than a conventional spring bar WDH. So going through big dips like approaching some gas stations puts an enormous front-to-rear twisting load on the hitch and its mounting points.
The Andersen's are reported by many in Travel Trailer forums not so transfer as much weight as conventional WD hitches, but they are very good at controlling sway.

I think any factory-installed hitch since since 2010 has the increased reinforcement, and wouldn't expect stress cracking.
We just removed the Hitch-to-Differential reinforcing tube that Can-Am RV Centre installed. We had to do that for a warranty fix on the AdBlue heater. Not sure if it was needed on our 2010 - we may measure deflection when tightening our WD bars soon.
By the way, our EaZ-Lift, with trunnion spring bars and friction sway bars is a superior system.

RostamDastan

[QUOTE=mikapen;6740456]Glad to see you have good results with your ML.

I don't want to start an argument here -- we are all friends -- but IMO the effect of rear overhang to wheelbase ratio on trailer stability is greatly exaggerated. I did a Google search for GL and ML's dimensions and for GL the ratio is 0.37. For ML the ratio is 0.34. Do you really think 0.03 makes any difference in towing stability? This is one of many myths that people swear by in Airstream forums -- They have repeated it so many times, they ALL believe in it now.

mikapen

[QUOTE=RostamDastan;6740597]Ha. I came up with a more favorable ratio for the ML, but my point was that many people think that the only good tow vehicle (TV) is a LWB 4 Door pickup - thinking that wheelbase is the important factor.
Others think that the wheelbase of the tow vehicle vs the length of the trailer determines stability.

But physics shows that the rear overhang to wheelbase is the important ratio. TV WB to trailer length is not a part of the equation - the TV only sees the trailer as a mass. It's not a myth, it's a noticeable fact. You CAN feel the difference even a shorter shank makes.

In any case, I don't think 1/2 Ton pickups are as capable tow vehicles as a good stout SUV. Plus you can't park the darn things - too long. For me, the GL is to long to tow with, too. For my use the ML is superior. YMMV.