Dealer quoted $395 for battery replacement on a GL. I can get one from Sam Club for $150. I'm going to replace it myself, anyone can suggest a DIY? Will computer relearn new battery or should I still go to the dealer?

 

Someone more experienced than I may have a better answer (I haven't replaced my battery yet) but --- I'd put a trickle charger on the jumper cable connections under the hood, then, with everything else off, including keyless go if installed, remove the right front seat, get the carpeting pieces out of the way, start taking the main battery out and put in the new one. Some photos are available on STAR TEC or EPC.
Good luck

 

Moving the seat all the way forward should allow you to remove the battery and replace it if you do not want to take the seat out. Make sure you put the air vent back correctly when you are done as it requires some "jiggling" to seat it correctly.

The battery is HEAVY, so take your time and be careful not to hurt yourself!

 

I have seen other posts where a radio code is required after the swap to reactivate it....200 for labor is silly, but if you end up there anyway paying for codes and a reflash of the ecu it may not be so bad in the longrun.

 

That is why I'd put a charger on the jumper terminals before beginning the process. That way the car never loses power. Remember the R side doors have to be open to get under the seat and that means the interior lights will turn on (for a while anyway). There is an auxiliary battery just forward of the main battery but it is designed to just power essential systems in the event of a complete battery failure.
Be VERY careful to NOT, REPEAT NOT! allow the positive wire from the battery to touch ANY grounded metal.

 

If you're over 50K miles, the battery is no longer under warranty. Otherwise it is, as there's no such thing as a 4-yr-old GL.

 

Many 2007 GLs had in-service dates in 2006, including mine. I believe that the 2007 GL came out in March of 2006.

 

a lot of the gl battery problems can be traced to bad battery positive terminal coupling to the battery wire. the connection is finicky and the gl presents often huge loads sufficient to "powder" the connection enough to be unreliable during high amp draws (starting, air compressor operation).

in other words lights, radio, etc. will work, but turning motor over will produce only clicks and reset dashboard. especially on diesel which requires more power to turn over.

i have yet to see a bad battery even on 07 gl trucks... drained- yes (there is a rear circuitry tsb for it), but not being able to hold charge- not a single one so far.

that... and women forget things on. statistically i have seen far more of the fairer gender stuck with dead battery than guys (now off i go to put my flak jacket on)...

 

alx
So, are you saying it would be a good idea to access the battery terminals, clean and check them before committing to a new battery?

 

"I have yet to see a bad battery even on 07 gl trucks... "

At 26,300 miles on my 2007 GL450 the battery "failed the Midtronics Test" and was replaced under warranty.

 

just the "+" terminal.. it is the one that is moved around connect/disconnect when the vehicle is serviced...

reddog- a critically discharged battery might need to be "conditioned". i am sure that the "failed" battery you experienced could be conditioned and would provide more service.

generally speaking non-gell acid batteries can be conditioned by charging the battery fully, then removing the charger and running the lights (without the engine) until lights start to dim. once they dim a bit, shut off everything and charge battery again. repeat for few times. if the battery is "good" you will notice that it takes longer and longer for the lights to drain the battery. usually 3-4 cycles are sufficient.

 

Call roadside assistance, they do not charge labor to put the battery in. If they cannot get your car jumped or see the proper volts, they should change it out for you. The cost of the battery is on you though...just food for thought.