08 GL 320CDI Power Loss and Cold Weather
The first time, the check engine light came on. I went to a local service station and they read the code as P1402 and cleared the code and check engine light. The second time it happened, the check engine light never came on.
I have to wait for the temperatures to drop again to take to my dealer so they can duplicate the issue.
Did anyone experience this and what was the issue?
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w901...ode-p1402.html
Mike T.
it is in the driver side back of the engine
here is a pic from behind
#4 is the hose that goes into the egr valve. it is held by two bolts.
My independent mechanic read the OBD fault code P2078 which is the pressure differential sensor. The sensor was replaced and the problem has been resolved as of this morning when it was 10 degrees F outside and I tested it again.




The following results were found:
Mercedes Benz: Exhaust gas recirculation open-loop control
BMW: Heated Catalyst Power Switch Overtemperature Condition (Bank 1)
Daihatsu: TPS 2 open or short circuit
Fiat: Flap
Fiat: Ventol EGR throttle valve
Ford: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Metering Orifice Restricted
Kia: EGR Control Solenoid Circuit Signal High/EGR Valve Position Sensor Circuit
Mazda: EGR Valve Position Sensor Circuit
Nissan: EGR System Fault Detected
PSA: EGR Metering Orifice Restricted
Subaru: Fuel Level Pressure Sensor Circuit
VW: EGR Valve Circ Short to B+
You searched for: P2078
The following results were found:
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Standard DTCs (ISO 15031-6/SAE J2012): Intake Manifold Tuning (IMT) Valve Position Sensor/Switch Circuit High Bank 1a
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I took off the EGR valve and gave it a good cleaning. I also changed the MAP sensor. Is the MAP sensor the same thing as a differential pressure sensor? After all this troubleshooting, it's still happening. Now it's throwing a P0069 code today (after I put the new OEM MAP sensor in).
I read in other posts that it could be the charge pressure sensor. Is that the same sensor as an air intake/charge temperature sensor?
Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!
I'm unsure if this is the same part as the "differential pressure" sensor. On the 2009 GL320 parts blowout, it's literally the same part image in the same location as the 2008 images.
Here's the URL to mbpartsworld image (part #095): mbpartsworld pressure sensor
My theory is that as the severe cold weakens the battery, and as we get in the vehicle to start it, several electrical consumers power up, so by time we crank, the battery has taken a sucker punch. The differential pressure sensor reads the dip in voltage as a particulate filter restriction, and triggers a check engine and the ECU puts the vehicle in limp home. Like anything else, the sensors are much older and have probably over 100K miles on them, so the accuracy slips. (Just like the O2 sensors on gas cars need to be replaced every so often.)
The pressure sensor in the front of the motor is an intake pressure sensor. Not the same.
I changed the battery today. Since it was the original OEM one, it was time!
Thanks folks.




My theory is that as the severe cold weakens the battery, and as we get in the vehicle to start it, several electrical consumers power up, so by time we crank, the battery has taken a sucker punch. The differential pressure sensor reads the dip in voltage as a particulate filter restriction, and triggers a check engine and the ECU puts the vehicle in limp home. Like anything else, the sensors are much older and have probably over 100K miles on them, so the accuracy slips. (Just like the O2 sensors on gas cars need to be replaced every so often.)
The pressure sensor in the front of the motor is an intake pressure sensor. Not the same.




It all depends what you mean by "compatible".
No diesel runs with jelled fuel.
Just because your battery is new does not mean everything else is within spec.
Last edited by N_Jay; Feb 7, 2014 at 11:22 AM.








If the sensors are throwing codes due to low voltage as opposed to an actual out of spec measurement, it could be due to a longer than expected crank due to degradation and wear of other parts.
The better the battery (and connections) the better it will supply an acceptable voltage for a longer the normal cranking period.
The Honda Pilot (my previous car) is famous for odd error codes due to old batteries, bad battery connections (and grounds) and they often show up during/after long cranks.
This post was helpful for EGR removal: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w164...300-p0671.html
However, from what everyone else has seen, including me, that was not the fix. It gave me piece of mind, however it was a knucklebusting effort. Good luck!
Thanks for everyone's help on this forum. Next project...flushing the front diff!




Thanks for everyone's help on this forum. Next project...flushing the front diff!
Any idea how they determine a failure of the DPF Pressure Differential Sensor, verses an actual high differential pressure across the DPF?
I am thinking that as these cars get older the DPFs may be getting to the point they need to be properly cleaned above and beyond what a regen cycle does.
There is an entire industry popping up to recondition DPFs.
http://www.dieselservicecenter.com/dpfcleaner/
http://www.dpfregeneration.com/Services.html
and others.




Thanks for everyone's help on this forum. Next project...flushing the front diff!
And you have a part number and the location of this sensor?




I can't tell where it is mounted from the EPC pictures.
Just follow the lines from the DPF.
EDIT:
Found this
http://workshop-manuals.com/mercedes...ons/page_5626/
Location
The differential pressure sensor (DPF) is located in the left transmission tunnel at the transmission output flange
Last edited by N_Jay; Feb 11, 2014 at 03:31 PM.



