DennisG01

Well, that would (does) really **** me off. I don't mind if a business makes money - that's what it's all about. But not at the expense of price gouging or exploitative. Sounds like a call to the NJ Better Business Bureau is in order - along with any documented proof you can provide. Heck, if it's that bad, I would even be tempted to call the local news channel.

v8_ranch

My 2008 has had the less than adequate litigate response for a while. I removed the pump to find it was low of hydrualic fluid and was leaking from the seal of the reservoir. Has anyone determined the actual o-ring size for the pump reservoir? I have tried to replace the factory clamp with another to see if it could be tightened. Helped for a bit, but then eventually leaked out again. I have a local place that actually makes o-rings so confident I can get whatever size I need, but wondered if anyone has actually determined the right size. If no one has, I will just remove it and take to the the o-ring place, but thought I would check here first. Thanks

silvergl

After looking around more, the liftgate control unit is defective and needs replacement. There is a TSB on this that says it just needs to use Xentry to reprogrammed. who knows, what a pain.

https://f01.justanswer.com/73bbchevy...alfunction.pdf

tadiguy

What exactly is the symptom of your lift gate problem? The part number you reference looks like a the gate strut for the X166 family. What's the year and model of your truck?

MichielV

I am having a similar issue with my GL450 where the trunk makes an electrical noise when trying to open the trunk with the remote or from within the car at drivers seat, but doesn't physically open. I tried to operate the emergency trunk release from within the car, and while I can lift it up and then release it, it does not appear to actually open the lock. When visually looking through the gap at the lock, lock mechanism doesn't appear to be enclosed within the securing pin. Pressing from within the car and pulling on the outside while using the remote to unlock the hatch has not worked to open the hatch. Obviously I am curious to inspect the locking mechanism to determine whether it needs to be replaced.

Any help / thoughts on this one would be appreciated!

UPDATE: Pulling on the emergency lever a little bit harder helped and resolved the issue. Lock was working just fine but during last closing it appears that something was stuck in it with caused it to fail. A simple reset fixed it.

Miguk_Saram

I thought I'd update this thread for future reference.

I started having this same issue a week or two ago... it got to the point where the tailgate would go up with a moan, but would not come down on its own.

So I passed by my local Harbor Freight and picked up some Sta-Lube Hydraulic And Jack Oil , added a few ounces to my [dried out] reservoir (filled a little above the "+" sign on the reservoir) and problem solved. Everything works smooth (and quietly) -- a 30 minute DIY.

I have a 3 ton hydraulic jack that uses this stuff.. and I'm pretty sure the tailgate weighs less than that.

Miguk_Saram

I came across an interesting thread on the FCP Euro blog, so I am linking to it here for the record (just in case anyone is interested in converting their tailgate to a manually operated one).

ML and GL Manual Tailgate Conversion (W164 and X164)