GL350 engine noise
06-10-2016, 02:47 PM
#101
Alx, what do you drive personally? I'm curious.
06-12-2016, 05:39 PM
#102
Perhaps, but certainly doesn't apply to me.
My GL is used for two things. 1. Driving between northern Chicagoland and southern Milwaukee (~60 miles a stretch, nearly no traffic, high quality pure diesel available at multiple truck stops), and 2. Towing a 5,500 lb ultralight travel trailer, typically for very long stretches at a time (400-500 miles), a couple of times a year.
Nearly no city driving, very little "start-stop", minimal idling, even minimal biofuel (I've got my selection of stations that serve up "pure" diesel, most of which are truck stops with rapid turnover).
Why am I disgusted with the brand?
1. Apparently, the problem isn't "fixable". I'm $8K in already, with 6 weeks in the shop. Whatever was the root cause of the problem, the dealer isn't going to be able to figure it out!.
2. No one will take responsibility for it. 3 other mechanics advised me to patch it up, and then pass off the turd as a trade-in or auction item, foisting the problem on some other unsuspecting soul. I didn't; I sucked it up and paid for the repair. But, what is the proper/decent thing to do now? Bite the bullet, and junk the car, writing off my loan as "unfixable"?
In my specific case, this isn't a question of the right engine in the wrong application. This is an unfixable engine; which makes me suspect that many of the other experiencing similar problems also have unfixable engines.
My GL is used for two things. 1. Driving between northern Chicagoland and southern Milwaukee (~60 miles a stretch, nearly no traffic, high quality pure diesel available at multiple truck stops), and 2. Towing a 5,500 lb ultralight travel trailer, typically for very long stretches at a time (400-500 miles), a couple of times a year.
Nearly no city driving, very little "start-stop", minimal idling, even minimal biofuel (I've got my selection of stations that serve up "pure" diesel, most of which are truck stops with rapid turnover).
Why am I disgusted with the brand?
1. Apparently, the problem isn't "fixable". I'm $8K in already, with 6 weeks in the shop. Whatever was the root cause of the problem, the dealer isn't going to be able to figure it out!.
2. No one will take responsibility for it. 3 other mechanics advised me to patch it up, and then pass off the turd as a trade-in or auction item, foisting the problem on some other unsuspecting soul. I didn't; I sucked it up and paid for the repair. But, what is the proper/decent thing to do now? Bite the bullet, and junk the car, writing off my loan as "unfixable"?
In my specific case, this isn't a question of the right engine in the wrong application. This is an unfixable engine; which makes me suspect that many of the other experiencing similar problems also have unfixable engines.
There is definitely an issue with the diesel in the GL or the way the GL is being used is affecting the reliability. Could the problems stem from short trips and too frequent starts and stops? We know a diesel shines when it is run for a long time. Could it be the right engine for the wrong application?
06-12-2016, 10:20 PM
#103
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E55, GLS450, GL63, GLE350
I noticed the pattern many years ago and used to get flamed for bringing up the questionable dependability of the GL diesel. Now that there are more diesel owners on the forum with more miles on their vehicles, we are starting to see the problems and failures happen much more frequently.
06-13-2016, 09:30 AM
#104
2. No one will take responsibility for it.
just providing you with a different point of view.
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a2j (08-10-2016)
06-14-2016, 12:31 PM
#105
Alx, you misunderstand.
My vehicle is not fixable.
I've called 3 independent mechanics. They don't want to work on something that a dealer has "messed up".
I've called about 8 dealers within 100 miles of me. They don't want to step on another dealer's toes, and either will not respond to my service requests, or suggest I go back to the original dealer.
I've spent a ton of money to get this fixed, and it isn't fixed. Replacing the timing chain, again, and all of the timing components will be just as expensive this time around, and I have every reason to believe that it didn't address the root of the problem.
There is something very wrong with an engine that stretches timing chains every 20k miles. You shouldn't need to replace every timing component every other oil change. Even if I was willing to spend another $7-8k on fixing it, there is no reason to believe that I won't have to do it again, in 2 years; the level of technical competency required to diagnose the root problem here exceeds anything available at ANY MB dealer, even if other dealers were willing to talk to me about it, which they aren't.
Short of buying a new engine, which will cost more than the residual value of the car (north of $23k), no one can tell me a path forward for this vehicle, that isn't cheaper than writing it off as a dead loss.
What do I expect? Someone to tell me, the problem is X, we'll get it this time, guaranteed, and the timing chain stretch will not recur. It will cost Y. But despite my best efforts, and dozens of hours invested, this will not happen, and I've gone far beyond the efforts of the "average" consumer.
It's a machine. Machines are fixable. There aren't ghosts in the machine. But, the support network that MB has in place is not up to the task of making this machine work, at any price (Short of a write-off, which isn't a fix, its a discard).
As a customer, MB has failed me, miserably. And I won't be surprised if I'm the someone else posts with a timing chain stretch recurring, in which case you have to admit that either A) the engines are defective, and there is an alignment issue with the timing gears, B) The timing chains are defective, and made of substandard steel, or C) the repair manual instructions for replacement of a timing chain are incorrect, and cause damage to the timing chain during reinstallation.
This is outside of whether or not I think they should be financially responsible. If you take that off the table, they've still failed me miserably.
My vehicle is not fixable.
I've called 3 independent mechanics. They don't want to work on something that a dealer has "messed up".
I've called about 8 dealers within 100 miles of me. They don't want to step on another dealer's toes, and either will not respond to my service requests, or suggest I go back to the original dealer.
I've spent a ton of money to get this fixed, and it isn't fixed. Replacing the timing chain, again, and all of the timing components will be just as expensive this time around, and I have every reason to believe that it didn't address the root of the problem.
There is something very wrong with an engine that stretches timing chains every 20k miles. You shouldn't need to replace every timing component every other oil change. Even if I was willing to spend another $7-8k on fixing it, there is no reason to believe that I won't have to do it again, in 2 years; the level of technical competency required to diagnose the root problem here exceeds anything available at ANY MB dealer, even if other dealers were willing to talk to me about it, which they aren't.
Short of buying a new engine, which will cost more than the residual value of the car (north of $23k), no one can tell me a path forward for this vehicle, that isn't cheaper than writing it off as a dead loss.
What do I expect? Someone to tell me, the problem is X, we'll get it this time, guaranteed, and the timing chain stretch will not recur. It will cost Y. But despite my best efforts, and dozens of hours invested, this will not happen, and I've gone far beyond the efforts of the "average" consumer.
It's a machine. Machines are fixable. There aren't ghosts in the machine. But, the support network that MB has in place is not up to the task of making this machine work, at any price (Short of a write-off, which isn't a fix, its a discard).
As a customer, MB has failed me, miserably. And I won't be surprised if I'm the someone else posts with a timing chain stretch recurring, in which case you have to admit that either A) the engines are defective, and there is an alignment issue with the timing gears, B) The timing chains are defective, and made of substandard steel, or C) the repair manual instructions for replacement of a timing chain are incorrect, and cause damage to the timing chain during reinstallation.
This is outside of whether or not I think they should be financially responsible. If you take that off the table, they've still failed me miserably.
06-14-2016, 01:32 PM
#106
Comedy
Alx,
You really are a master of excuses.
"Out of warranty".....recall my case, it was by 800 miles over. That's completely ridiculous to leave me hanging with a paper weight of an engine at 50,800 miles.
I only chime in on this thread to remind people of how horrific this brand has become (and how they treat their customers).
For reference....not the same platform, but MB has a small history of this crap:
http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/201...-chain-issues/
I wouldn't even be surprised to see a class action lawsuit on the OM64 in a few years. The details of that previous "secret" case sound awfully familiar.
@Samiran: Junk the truck. Get it nice and hot, drive it to a dealer (non-mb), trade it in while it does not make the noise, drive away in a reliable vehicle. It's your only reasonable recourse. I reached that conclusion very quickly.
You really are a master of excuses.
"Out of warranty".....recall my case, it was by 800 miles over. That's completely ridiculous to leave me hanging with a paper weight of an engine at 50,800 miles.
I only chime in on this thread to remind people of how horrific this brand has become (and how they treat their customers).
For reference....not the same platform, but MB has a small history of this crap:
http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/201...-chain-issues/
I wouldn't even be surprised to see a class action lawsuit on the OM64 in a few years. The details of that previous "secret" case sound awfully familiar.
@Samiran: Junk the truck. Get it nice and hot, drive it to a dealer (non-mb), trade it in while it does not make the noise, drive away in a reliable vehicle. It's your only reasonable recourse. I reached that conclusion very quickly.
06-19-2016, 08:40 AM
#107
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GL 320, 993TT, BMW 550XI
Originally Posted by alx
The diesel does not like to start and stop. Lots of compression puts a stress on the valve train when it is spun by the starter alone. Not to mention that the high pressure fuel pump is driven by the engine and when the starter spins everything and the pump the adiabatic resistance is significant which puts great strain on the timing chain and the valve train altogether.
06-20-2016, 02:25 PM
#108
There is definitely an issue with the diesel in the GL or the way the GL is being used is affecting the reliability. Could the problems stem from short trips and too frequent starts and stops? We know a diesel shines when it is run for a long time. Could it be the right engine for the wrong application?
I will say, it is strange that the sound doesn't start immediately on starting the engine, it is almost as if the tensioner starts out with pressure, drops for a few seconds, and then the pressure rebuilds.
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...F2RzJFSVgzdUd3
My guess is that whatever is happening on start to cause this condition is also the cause of the premature wear, and the subsequent problems (broken guides, worn sprockets, etc . . .)
07-11-2016, 12:09 AM
#109
alx is a nice guy, but, otherwise, agreed.
I'm done. Test drove every large SUV (and most medium 3 row) on the market, and bought a beautiful Sequoia Platinum.
It kicks butt. Faster than the Bluetec (considerably). More torque than the X164 Bluetec. (About 50 ft lb less than the X166; 401 ft lbs ). More HP than the GL450. It's really only matched in terms of engine by the GL550, and only in the X166.
Manual lists the max hitch tongue weight as 880 LBs. Better yet, the car is SAE J2807 rated, which means that you don't have the follow the 80% rule on towing ratings; it really will tow the max listed weight under extreme conditions.
Downsides? The interior is not as luxurious looking as the GL or QX80. But; the infotainment system is heads/tails better than my 2011 was, and better than the loaner 2014 GLK I spent a lot of time in.
Flipside? The interior is WAAAYYY more spacious. Cavernous. Like, I can barely reach my wife over the center console, huge. Did I mention there were 5 cupholders that the driver can access? And a spot for my phone? And for my wireless brake controller? And for the bluray entertainment remote? And for hanging file folders? (Seriously). The center console on the first row is massive. The center console on the second row is just huge. The side consoles on the third row are just "large"; but 3 can be seated comfortably back there.
Oh, and intelligent cruise control (laser) comes standard.
As a family hauler, pulling a camper, it is a vast improvement over the GL. The auto-leveling air suspension is better designed for towing, as you can click "manual", allowing you to properly level and adjust your WD hitch system. The procedure to do so is in the manual, and is something the designers clearly thought about.
MPG sucks, especially compared to the diesel, but the maintenance cost reduction will make up for it (not including $$$ repairs, just basic maintenance), and $/mile is equal to the GL450, and better than the GL550, because it burns regular, rather than premium gas.
Now, I don't really want to knock anyone else; if you enjoy your GL, you should stick with it!
But . . . if you are tired of the maintenance issues, and are looking for a good alternative vehicle, you should really consider a Sequoia. Lexus has always treated me well (12+ years of driving Lexuses), and my intermittent experience with Toyota has similarly been very good. It really is just a better thought out, and better engineered vehicle.
If anyone is interested in purchasing a (Chinese) STAR diagnostic unit copy, send me an IM.
I'm done. Test drove every large SUV (and most medium 3 row) on the market, and bought a beautiful Sequoia Platinum.
It kicks butt. Faster than the Bluetec (considerably). More torque than the X164 Bluetec. (About 50 ft lb less than the X166; 401 ft lbs ). More HP than the GL450. It's really only matched in terms of engine by the GL550, and only in the X166.
Manual lists the max hitch tongue weight as 880 LBs. Better yet, the car is SAE J2807 rated, which means that you don't have the follow the 80% rule on towing ratings; it really will tow the max listed weight under extreme conditions.
Downsides? The interior is not as luxurious looking as the GL or QX80. But; the infotainment system is heads/tails better than my 2011 was, and better than the loaner 2014 GLK I spent a lot of time in.
Flipside? The interior is WAAAYYY more spacious. Cavernous. Like, I can barely reach my wife over the center console, huge. Did I mention there were 5 cupholders that the driver can access? And a spot for my phone? And for my wireless brake controller? And for the bluray entertainment remote? And for hanging file folders? (Seriously). The center console on the first row is massive. The center console on the second row is just huge. The side consoles on the third row are just "large"; but 3 can be seated comfortably back there.
Oh, and intelligent cruise control (laser) comes standard.
As a family hauler, pulling a camper, it is a vast improvement over the GL. The auto-leveling air suspension is better designed for towing, as you can click "manual", allowing you to properly level and adjust your WD hitch system. The procedure to do so is in the manual, and is something the designers clearly thought about.
MPG sucks, especially compared to the diesel, but the maintenance cost reduction will make up for it (not including $$$ repairs, just basic maintenance), and $/mile is equal to the GL450, and better than the GL550, because it burns regular, rather than premium gas.
Now, I don't really want to knock anyone else; if you enjoy your GL, you should stick with it!
But . . . if you are tired of the maintenance issues, and are looking for a good alternative vehicle, you should really consider a Sequoia. Lexus has always treated me well (12+ years of driving Lexuses), and my intermittent experience with Toyota has similarly been very good. It really is just a better thought out, and better engineered vehicle.
If anyone is interested in purchasing a (Chinese) STAR diagnostic unit copy, send me an IM.
Alx,
You really are a master of excuses.
"Out of warranty".....recall my case, it was by 800 miles over. That's completely ridiculous to leave me hanging with a paper weight of an engine at 50,800 miles.
I only chime in on this thread to remind people of how horrific this brand has become (and how they treat their customers).
For reference....not the same platform, but MB has a small history of this crap:
http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/201...-chain-issues/
I wouldn't even be surprised to see a class action lawsuit on the OM64 in a few years. The details of that previous "secret" case sound awfully familiar.
@Samiran: Junk the truck. Get it nice and hot, drive it to a dealer (non-mb), trade it in while it does not make the noise, drive away in a reliable vehicle. It's your only reasonable recourse. I reached that conclusion very quickly.
You really are a master of excuses.
"Out of warranty".....recall my case, it was by 800 miles over. That's completely ridiculous to leave me hanging with a paper weight of an engine at 50,800 miles.
I only chime in on this thread to remind people of how horrific this brand has become (and how they treat their customers).
For reference....not the same platform, but MB has a small history of this crap:
http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/201...-chain-issues/
I wouldn't even be surprised to see a class action lawsuit on the OM64 in a few years. The details of that previous "secret" case sound awfully familiar.
@Samiran: Junk the truck. Get it nice and hot, drive it to a dealer (non-mb), trade it in while it does not make the noise, drive away in a reliable vehicle. It's your only reasonable recourse. I reached that conclusion very quickly.
07-12-2016, 10:00 PM
#110
I think the biggest liability with that Toyota (and the Lexus) is the fuel mileage. If everyone else is getting significantly better fuel consumption with their V8s, something must be wrong with they way Toyota has implemented their engine. But back to the diesel...
I have had more repairs than I would like with my GL 320, but nothing related to the diesel. I do think it has to do with drivers pushing the revs, but I have no evidence to back that up. The person who said "good engine in the wrong application" may be on to something.
I have had more repairs than I would like with my GL 320, but nothing related to the diesel. I do think it has to do with drivers pushing the revs, but I have no evidence to back that up. The person who said "good engine in the wrong application" may be on to something.
07-13-2016, 01:06 PM
#111
i would buy the new gen escallade before i buy a sequoia or the whale of infinity... the new llade despite its live rear axle is far more luxurious and proper compared to the japanese offerings
08-11-2016, 11:11 PM
#113
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gl 350
I have a 2011 GL350 as well making the same flopping or chatter for about 4 seconds on a cold start....sometimes. I have had to the dealer twice, once for a week so they had multiple cold mornings and they determined it was in fact the timing chain but because it went away quick there was nothing they would be authorized to do.
I started studing the chain and tensioner myself. The tensioner is accessed from outside the engine block so I decided to replace the tensioner. Fairly easy job. When I got the original tensioner out you could tell the end of it had been "hammering" whatever it rides on and there was not a lot of spring tension on it. Now I understand it pumps up with oil pressure but with a new tensioner hand in hand there was significantly less tension. I installed the new tensioner, started it and the rattle was worse, then it went away for two or three minutes and slowly you could hear the sound coming back. Not liking that sound I put the original tensioner back in. All better, but I still have my cold start up flop.
Took it back to dealer and they say it may be a bad oil pump? I am just bummed as I have changed the oil every 5k and never cold start hard drive the car. I also have a 2012 Sprinter van with the same engine and it sound smoother than my GL through the rpm range making wonder if the GL is suffering from general low oil pressure causing some extra clatter? The GL has 55k on it and uses no oil at all, been a great vehicle aside from this but I am not sure what to do next?
I started studing the chain and tensioner myself. The tensioner is accessed from outside the engine block so I decided to replace the tensioner. Fairly easy job. When I got the original tensioner out you could tell the end of it had been "hammering" whatever it rides on and there was not a lot of spring tension on it. Now I understand it pumps up with oil pressure but with a new tensioner hand in hand there was significantly less tension. I installed the new tensioner, started it and the rattle was worse, then it went away for two or three minutes and slowly you could hear the sound coming back. Not liking that sound I put the original tensioner back in. All better, but I still have my cold start up flop.
Took it back to dealer and they say it may be a bad oil pump? I am just bummed as I have changed the oil every 5k and never cold start hard drive the car. I also have a 2012 Sprinter van with the same engine and it sound smoother than my GL through the rpm range making wonder if the GL is suffering from general low oil pressure causing some extra clatter? The GL has 55k on it and uses no oil at all, been a great vehicle aside from this but I am not sure what to do next?
The reason why it continuously makes the noise after replacing tensioner is because the tensioner extends to a certain amount and has stops after that, on the old tensioner the stops were broken and it would extend further than designed that way it kept the chain tight after start.
Hope this helps someone.
Now why an 80k car would have this problem so early is definitely because of poor design or lack of quality of the materials used.
I'm going to contact Mercedes and see if they'll help with some of the costs since it's 10k miles over warranty. If not I'll see if I can contact a few lawyers that are willing to take this as a class action since there are so many people with the same problem.
08-12-2016, 03:50 PM
#114
OM642 engine
I really do not understand the timing chain issue. The Sprinter vans have not had the issue but I don't know what may be different on the internals of the two OM642 engines.
The only other thing I wonder about is the distinct change in specified oils. Since back on 07 MB suggested 5w-40 in the V6 diesels. Mid last year they shifted that over to 0w-30 or 5w-30 (what I now use). I am sure the lighter oil is for fuel economy reasons however you still wonder feasibility of the lighter oil?
I do not have a copy handy of the Technical Service Bulletin but they do acknowledge the problem. The TSB shows between 39k miles and 140k miles this may occur.
I have put almost 50k on mine since the chain replacement and it is sounding great, even though I listen closely everytime I start it up.
The only other thing I wonder about is the distinct change in specified oils. Since back on 07 MB suggested 5w-40 in the V6 diesels. Mid last year they shifted that over to 0w-30 or 5w-30 (what I now use). I am sure the lighter oil is for fuel economy reasons however you still wonder feasibility of the lighter oil?
I do not have a copy handy of the Technical Service Bulletin but they do acknowledge the problem. The TSB shows between 39k miles and 140k miles this may occur.
I have put almost 50k on mine since the chain replacement and it is sounding great, even though I listen closely everytime I start it up.
08-26-2016, 05:56 PM
#115
Senior Member
12-25-2016, 10:32 AM
#116
Senior Member
Add my 2012 GL 350 to the list producing the noise (last four or five startups - we were traveling away from home otherwise I would have put it in the garage until I can deal with it). It's got only 54,600 miles on it, maintained 100% to MB guidelines using 100% approved fluids and parts.
I bought it used at 19k miles and it was dealer serviced to that point; I did the service beyond that. I'm not a professional mechanic but I can do an engine change on my race car, by myself, in less than 10 hours, so I'm no slouch. I'll say, this vehicle has been the biggest disappointment of my automotive lifetime. $81k sticker price and it's been nothing but trouble. Before this noise started, I actually told myself rolling down the road "wow, it's gone 4,000 miles without having to be repaired." So much for that.
Fortunately we have a spare BMW that I can drive while this sits like a beached whale in the garage. I drove BMWs for 20 years exclusively, only switched to the GL so I could tow the race car and haul the kids. May need to do some soul searching on whether to waste my time on a repair or just trade this lemon in on a better brand.
I bought it used at 19k miles and it was dealer serviced to that point; I did the service beyond that. I'm not a professional mechanic but I can do an engine change on my race car, by myself, in less than 10 hours, so I'm no slouch. I'll say, this vehicle has been the biggest disappointment of my automotive lifetime. $81k sticker price and it's been nothing but trouble. Before this noise started, I actually told myself rolling down the road "wow, it's gone 4,000 miles without having to be repaired." So much for that.
Fortunately we have a spare BMW that I can drive while this sits like a beached whale in the garage. I drove BMWs for 20 years exclusively, only switched to the GL so I could tow the race car and haul the kids. May need to do some soul searching on whether to waste my time on a repair or just trade this lemon in on a better brand.
01-11-2017, 10:18 AM
#117
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2014 GL 350
Timing Chain failures - oil related?
My chain failed at 63k on my 2012 GL 350. Fortunately under CPO warranty. My friend (2012 GL 350, 70k miles) was not so lucky, he apparently waited a while after the noise started and it destroyed the engine. His was also covered under CPO warranty but truck was at the dealer for 9 weeks!
I also read about Sprinter owners with large fleets that have no issues. Very strange. Are there just a batch of bad timing chains out there? Seems like that would effect a specific range of VIN's.
My bigger concern is the movement of MB oil specs from 229.5 to 229.51 to 229.52. The oils are getting thinner to make the engines heat up faster and the wear additives are being reduced to protect the DPF.
My friend and I are both conservative on OCI at about 7500 miles. We use the correct spec oil. And we both had failures.
Anyone considering running the higher viscosity boutique oils like Lucas 10W40 or 10W60? Both are listed as acceptable viscosity in the owners manual and the oil has MB 229.52 approval.
I also read about Sprinter owners with large fleets that have no issues. Very strange. Are there just a batch of bad timing chains out there? Seems like that would effect a specific range of VIN's.
My bigger concern is the movement of MB oil specs from 229.5 to 229.51 to 229.52. The oils are getting thinner to make the engines heat up faster and the wear additives are being reduced to protect the DPF.
My friend and I are both conservative on OCI at about 7500 miles. We use the correct spec oil. And we both had failures.
Anyone considering running the higher viscosity boutique oils like Lucas 10W40 or 10W60? Both are listed as acceptable viscosity in the owners manual and the oil has MB 229.52 approval.
Last edited by Tomcat728; 01-11-2017 at 10:23 AM.
01-11-2017, 10:51 AM
#118
That said, 1 week and 1000 highway miles after the first time I used the Valvoline, the oil cooler seal failed when the truck had 60k miles. Coincidence? Probably.
Dealer cut me a slight break on the oil cooler replacement because the engine mounts were also leaking and the combined job saved on some labor. Only $4500 instead of $5500. Such a deal!
01-11-2017, 12:28 PM
#119
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2014 GL 350
I agree with coincidence, my friend and I have both had the oil cooler seals fail on our 2012's at about 60k miles and it seems to be an even more common issue than the timing chain failures.
Interesting note on the engine mounts. I have read that the diesels are the only mounts with "high temperature" fluid to withstand the under-hood temps. If these are failing as well the issue of temperature may be an additional element piled onto the "spec dilution" on the later oils. I have read some recommendations to remove the underbelly pans to allow more airflow.
I think you are on the right track with the 20W50 oil. I bounce between Michigan and Florida and tow a car back and forth, so the 10W60 might do the trick for me, plus it is listed as an acceptable option in the owners manual.
I'm in the process of buying a 2014 GL 350 and I've added two years of additional CPO warranty to get me out ot November 2020 with unlimited mileage. I can't see owning one of these without the warranty.
Interesting note on the engine mounts. I have read that the diesels are the only mounts with "high temperature" fluid to withstand the under-hood temps. If these are failing as well the issue of temperature may be an additional element piled onto the "spec dilution" on the later oils. I have read some recommendations to remove the underbelly pans to allow more airflow.
I think you are on the right track with the 20W50 oil. I bounce between Michigan and Florida and tow a car back and forth, so the 10W60 might do the trick for me, plus it is listed as an acceptable option in the owners manual.
I'm in the process of buying a 2014 GL 350 and I've added two years of additional CPO warranty to get me out ot November 2020 with unlimited mileage. I can't see owning one of these without the warranty.
Last edited by Tomcat728; 01-11-2017 at 12:31 PM.
01-11-2017, 01:42 PM
#120
After mobil1 dropped the 5w40 I have been using castrol turbo diesel 5w40. It meet the same spec but I can't it reasonably anymore
i am going to delete the dpf and try another oil. Curious what would be the best protecting oil if the dpf was not a concern.
Hopefully the delete pipes should be available in month or so.
i am going to delete the dpf and try another oil. Curious what would be the best protecting oil if the dpf was not a concern.
Hopefully the delete pipes should be available in month or so.
01-11-2017, 03:17 PM
#121
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2014 GL 350
I have been using Rotella T6 5W40 in my 2003 GMC Duramax since new, 136K and zero oil related issues.
I also used in my 2007 GL 320, 160K and zero oil related issues.
Rotella has I believe about 1200 PPM zinc and phosphorus and 1000 PPM sulfacted ash. These anti wear agents have all been cut 20 - 40% in current spec 229.52 oils.
Rotella is readily available and very reasonably priced
I also used in my 2007 GL 320, 160K and zero oil related issues.
Rotella has I believe about 1200 PPM zinc and phosphorus and 1000 PPM sulfacted ash. These anti wear agents have all been cut 20 - 40% in current spec 229.52 oils.
Rotella is readily available and very reasonably priced
01-16-2017, 02:43 PM
#122
Add my 2012 GL 350 to the list producing the noise (last four or five startups - we were traveling away from home otherwise I would have put it in the garage until I can deal with it). It's got only 54,600 miles on it, maintained 100% to MB guidelines using 100% approved fluids and parts.
I bought it used at 19k miles and it was dealer serviced to that point; I did the service beyond that. I'm not a professional mechanic but I can do an engine change on my race car, by myself, in less than 10 hours, so I'm no slouch. I'll say, this vehicle has been the biggest disappointment of my automotive lifetime. $81k sticker price and it's been nothing but trouble. Before this noise started, I actually told myself rolling down the road "wow, it's gone 4,000 miles without having to be repaired." So much for that.
Fortunately we have a spare BMW that I can drive while this sits like a beached whale in the garage. I drove BMWs for 20 years exclusively, only switched to the GL so I could tow the race car and haul the kids. May need to do some soul searching on whether to waste my time on a repair or just trade this lemon in on a better brand.
I bought it used at 19k miles and it was dealer serviced to that point; I did the service beyond that. I'm not a professional mechanic but I can do an engine change on my race car, by myself, in less than 10 hours, so I'm no slouch. I'll say, this vehicle has been the biggest disappointment of my automotive lifetime. $81k sticker price and it's been nothing but trouble. Before this noise started, I actually told myself rolling down the road "wow, it's gone 4,000 miles without having to be repaired." So much for that.
Fortunately we have a spare BMW that I can drive while this sits like a beached whale in the garage. I drove BMWs for 20 years exclusively, only switched to the GL so I could tow the race car and haul the kids. May need to do some soul searching on whether to waste my time on a repair or just trade this lemon in on a better brand.
While I did not do this job on mine myself I discussed it at length with dealer tech. Mine started sounding bad at 42k and I had it changed at 64k. They removed the drivers side valve cover (fuel rail as well), split the chain there, re-rivet the new chain to old and turn crank over to get it fed through all cams and crank.
I have had a couple of emissions related issues (DEF tank heater and Nox sensors) but now with 105k miles I am glad I stuck through it. Seems the stuff that was to be an issue has now been replaced! Just did the Airmatic myself as a preventative measure figuring over 100k is fair. Did it all but rear shocks as they looked fine but I was at my Spousal limit for car repairs that month also!!
Hang in there, it is painful at times with a OM642 but heck I get high 20s mpg and low 20s in the city. Nothing comes close...
01-16-2017, 03:21 PM
#123
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Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Michigan & Florida
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2014 GL 350
Why stick with the GL?
I went to the GL after 7 Suburbans, 5 1500's and the last 2 were 2500 Big Blocks for serious towing (boats, race cars, etc.). There were big and practical but not particularly refined. We bought a used 2007 320 CDI with 110k and drove it to 160k. No major issues. Refined, great fuel economy, took it to Florida several times. Like it so much that we bought the 2012 GL 350. My friend traded his Suburban for a GL 350 as well. You know the rest of my story.
So why am I buying another one? I rode in a fairly new Suburban last week and the difference in refinement is still there. Maybe a Escalade is better but they cost as much or more than a GL. Have never been able to warm up to Japanese. Plus I can say its made in America! (The last few of my Suburbans were made in Mexico) Plus the GL tows better than any of my 1500 Suburbans and gets double the fuel mileage while doing so!
The key for me is the Unlimited mileage CPO warranty. Given all we have learned about the apparent decline in reliability, I can live with it if MB is going to cover any issues. I paid $3500 for two additional years. So our "new" 2014 GL 350 is covered until November 2020. We drive a lot of miles so this makes sense for us.
While I enjoy working on cars, long are the days that I want to have to work on my daily drivers. I put myself through engineering school working as a mechanic and flipping cars on the side. I don't need that stress any more!
So for me daily drivers will come with a warranty.
So why am I buying another one? I rode in a fairly new Suburban last week and the difference in refinement is still there. Maybe a Escalade is better but they cost as much or more than a GL. Have never been able to warm up to Japanese. Plus I can say its made in America! (The last few of my Suburbans were made in Mexico) Plus the GL tows better than any of my 1500 Suburbans and gets double the fuel mileage while doing so!
The key for me is the Unlimited mileage CPO warranty. Given all we have learned about the apparent decline in reliability, I can live with it if MB is going to cover any issues. I paid $3500 for two additional years. So our "new" 2014 GL 350 is covered until November 2020. We drive a lot of miles so this makes sense for us.
While I enjoy working on cars, long are the days that I want to have to work on my daily drivers. I put myself through engineering school working as a mechanic and flipping cars on the side. I don't need that stress any more!
So for me daily drivers will come with a warranty.
01-22-2017, 08:37 AM
#124
Senior Member
Thanks Krusty, I did get a copy of WIS and confirmed that is the factory procedure. I've ordered the special tools that I know I can't fabricate (or were cheap enough that I didn't want to take the time) and I'm putting together the parts order now. Would you (or somebody else who has had the job done) please post the parts list that the dealer used? I want to see if they are replacing the o-rings and crush washers when the pull the injectors, and also some of the various gaskets and stuff. I don't want to have to make a parts order mid-job.
I stareted disassembly last night and it actually doesn't look like a bad job once you get into it.
I stareted disassembly last night and it actually doesn't look like a bad job once you get into it.
01-23-2017, 10:37 PM
#125
Sak....
I will pull the repair order and post it. It is not a terrible job but don't let that chain drop in the abyss! Whole front cover would have to come off...
Valve cover is the cam bearing halves so torque is crucial. Is there a special service tool that holds the cams when you have cover off?
Valve cover is the cam bearing halves so torque is crucial. Is there a special service tool that holds the cams when you have cover off?
