Year One with a 2008 CDI
06-20-2015, 09:41 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Year One with a 2008 CDI
Its been a year since I bought my 2008 GL320 CDI, so it was time to get an oil change. This is a weekend car for us, so there isn't much mileage put on the truck, so no need to do service except for once a year. Very convenient, especially after you read the rest of my post.
Having the vehicle for a year, and getting close to 90k on the odometer, we noticed some things not working as they should:
1. Power Steering Rack. I had posted before that I received a warning in the winter about low power steering fluid. I filled it up, and made note to have the dealer check it when I brought it in for service. The dealer inspected and found that the rack was leaking, and that it had to be replaced.
2. Front Wheel Bearings. Recently, the truck had developed some significant road noise at high speeds, to the point where my wife commented she could feel the vibration in the floorboards. The dealer confirmed the noise, and found the front wheel bearings needed to be replaced.
3. Rear Door Lock Actuator. The driver-side rear door was sticking open, so that you'd have to lock the car multiple times before it would plunge. The dealer found that the actuator was defective and needed repair.
4. Moon Roof Sensor. When you closed the moon roof, the sensor would stop it and open it back up. The dealer confirmed this was a common issue and that it could be fixed through reprogramming.
This is where things get interesting. The first three items are covered under my extended warranty (3rd party). I brought the car in on a Saturday, and the dealer began diagnosis on Tuesday. Not sure what happened to Monday, but I suspect that having not taken a rental car put me in the back of the line. The dealer contacted the warranty company, who in turn dispatched a claims adjuster to confirm the issues. That took a week. The second week was spent negotiating with the dealer, who wanted to charge me significantly more hours to do the work than the warranty company authorized. I told them I couldn't afford to pay the difference (in the case of the steering rack, they wanted nearly twice the hours), and they ended up coming back to say they would honor the hours authorized by the warranty company. The catch? I would have to pay the $12/hr difference in what was authorized versus what MB charges. Oh well.
So, I ended up paying $300 or so for the alignment (necessary after the steering rack was replaced, apparently) and the labor difference. The warranty paid out about $3000 in parts in labor, still less than what I paid for it, but I have three years to go and (to my knowledge) the bags have never been replaced. The dealership ended up eating the labor differences, which really didn't cost them anything, just profit lost. I'd say about $1500.
All told, I'm not thrilled with the amount of time it took to do the work (after two prior experiences where time frames were blown to pieces as well). I don't think I will be returning to that dealership. I'm actually quite pleased with the warranty company. Even though it took them a few days to get it straight, they covered everything they said they would.
As for the stuff that wasn't covered under warranty, that is another story altogether:
1. Front Rotors. These measured below spec, so they need to be replaced. The performance shop that services my Audis said they can do the work for half the quote. I've already made an appointment to have the front rotors and pads (at 50%, but might as well replace) done.
2. Sway Bar Links. Oddly not covered by the warranty. I'll have the indy check those out and give me a quote. They aren't bad, just noisy. Might just need some grease?
3. Backup Camera. Every once in a while, I'll put the truck in reverse, and the backup camera is blank. The dealer wanted $3000 to fix, but after some research here, I assume this is the same problem many folks have the connector. It doesn't happen often enough for me to pay out that kind of money.
4. Turbo Seals. Another problem I see that others have and can be easily fixed with new gaskets. Dealer wanted $1000, but this sounds like another job for my indy to tackle.
Needless to say, this vehicle has been significantly more expensive to maintain after the factory warranty has run out as compared to my Audis, but I still really like the truck. Sorry for the long post.
Having the vehicle for a year, and getting close to 90k on the odometer, we noticed some things not working as they should:
1. Power Steering Rack. I had posted before that I received a warning in the winter about low power steering fluid. I filled it up, and made note to have the dealer check it when I brought it in for service. The dealer inspected and found that the rack was leaking, and that it had to be replaced.
2. Front Wheel Bearings. Recently, the truck had developed some significant road noise at high speeds, to the point where my wife commented she could feel the vibration in the floorboards. The dealer confirmed the noise, and found the front wheel bearings needed to be replaced.
3. Rear Door Lock Actuator. The driver-side rear door was sticking open, so that you'd have to lock the car multiple times before it would plunge. The dealer found that the actuator was defective and needed repair.
4. Moon Roof Sensor. When you closed the moon roof, the sensor would stop it and open it back up. The dealer confirmed this was a common issue and that it could be fixed through reprogramming.
This is where things get interesting. The first three items are covered under my extended warranty (3rd party). I brought the car in on a Saturday, and the dealer began diagnosis on Tuesday. Not sure what happened to Monday, but I suspect that having not taken a rental car put me in the back of the line. The dealer contacted the warranty company, who in turn dispatched a claims adjuster to confirm the issues. That took a week. The second week was spent negotiating with the dealer, who wanted to charge me significantly more hours to do the work than the warranty company authorized. I told them I couldn't afford to pay the difference (in the case of the steering rack, they wanted nearly twice the hours), and they ended up coming back to say they would honor the hours authorized by the warranty company. The catch? I would have to pay the $12/hr difference in what was authorized versus what MB charges. Oh well.
So, I ended up paying $300 or so for the alignment (necessary after the steering rack was replaced, apparently) and the labor difference. The warranty paid out about $3000 in parts in labor, still less than what I paid for it, but I have three years to go and (to my knowledge) the bags have never been replaced. The dealership ended up eating the labor differences, which really didn't cost them anything, just profit lost. I'd say about $1500.
All told, I'm not thrilled with the amount of time it took to do the work (after two prior experiences where time frames were blown to pieces as well). I don't think I will be returning to that dealership. I'm actually quite pleased with the warranty company. Even though it took them a few days to get it straight, they covered everything they said they would.
As for the stuff that wasn't covered under warranty, that is another story altogether:
1. Front Rotors. These measured below spec, so they need to be replaced. The performance shop that services my Audis said they can do the work for half the quote. I've already made an appointment to have the front rotors and pads (at 50%, but might as well replace) done.
2. Sway Bar Links. Oddly not covered by the warranty. I'll have the indy check those out and give me a quote. They aren't bad, just noisy. Might just need some grease?
3. Backup Camera. Every once in a while, I'll put the truck in reverse, and the backup camera is blank. The dealer wanted $3000 to fix, but after some research here, I assume this is the same problem many folks have the connector. It doesn't happen often enough for me to pay out that kind of money.
4. Turbo Seals. Another problem I see that others have and can be easily fixed with new gaskets. Dealer wanted $1000, but this sounds like another job for my indy to tackle.
Needless to say, this vehicle has been significantly more expensive to maintain after the factory warranty has run out as compared to my Audis, but I still really like the truck. Sorry for the long post.
06-20-2015, 07:38 PM
#2
Super Member
You are being BS'd on the front rotors. The 'spec' is to be used when the pads need changing. It (the spec) thickness is the amount of metal needed for the rotors to safely last, using full breaking when necessary, until the pads need replacing again. If they are below spec and the pads have been replaced then that is an issue caused by whomever changed the pads before you owned the car. It is/should have been a normal part of the safety inspection the dealer is supposed to have performed BEFORE he sold you the car. Have him replace the rotors on HIS dime, not YOURS!
06-22-2015, 10:03 AM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I did find it interesting that while the dealer said the rotors wouldn't pass the VA safety inspection, I had a new sticker and a passing rating sheet in the car when I picked it up. I'm going to follow up with my indy to see what has to be done. I'm also somewhat concerned that with a vehicle that big having front rotors out of spec, but it's possible they could have been lying about that as well.
We took the truck out this weekend for an extended drive, and while the vibration is gone, there is still some noise coming from the tires. Since it also got an alignment, I'm wondering if maybe the tires are just getting noisy (I had that issue before on another car). I think I'll have my indy take a look while they are checking the breaks.
And like clockwork, I lost a low beam on the drive home. Fortunately, that is something I can handle on my own.
We took the truck out this weekend for an extended drive, and while the vibration is gone, there is still some noise coming from the tires. Since it also got an alignment, I'm wondering if maybe the tires are just getting noisy (I had that issue before on another car). I think I'll have my indy take a look while they are checking the breaks.
And like clockwork, I lost a low beam on the drive home. Fortunately, that is something I can handle on my own.
06-22-2015, 09:13 PM
#4
Super Member
Of COURSE the dealer told you it wouldn't pass the VA inspection - he is the one trying to sell you the new rotors and not likely to act like an independent inspector would.
Now, if I were an inspector and someone asked me to pass-fail a car presented to me and the car had brand new brake pads AND the rotors were worn below spec I'd fail the car too because the brakes may become unsafe to stop a max load at some point before the brake warning comes on. But from what you reported the pads are NOT new and may never have been replaced. As long as the brake warning light has not gone off you will be OK.
For example, we have over 110,000 mi on our '08 GL 320 and have never replaced either the pads or rotors. But we don't wear the brakes very fast on ANY of our cars. Never have.
Now, if I were an inspector and someone asked me to pass-fail a car presented to me and the car had brand new brake pads AND the rotors were worn below spec I'd fail the car too because the brakes may become unsafe to stop a max load at some point before the brake warning comes on. But from what you reported the pads are NOT new and may never have been replaced. As long as the brake warning light has not gone off you will be OK.
For example, we have over 110,000 mi on our '08 GL 320 and have never replaced either the pads or rotors. But we don't wear the brakes very fast on ANY of our cars. Never have.
06-29-2015, 02:18 PM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
The truck had a date with my indy today, and more money coming out of my pocket. The front pads are nearly new, but the rotors are in pretty bad shape. A hefty lip has built from someone replacing pads but not the rotors, probably the dealer I purchased it from. They are going to replace the rotors and sand the pads so they don't scruff the new rotors. $400
They also need to clean and adjust the parking brake cables. $150
The big money is going to replace the rear shocks (regular, not the air bags) and control arm bushing one one side. The warranty covers the air suspension but not the regular shocks. Wear and tear, I assume. One has bled out so bad that it has deteriorated the control arm bushing. That item is covered, but since it was damaged by a non covered item, no coverage. Beat by a technicality. $1300
So I'm in about $2500 in my first year of ownership.
They also need to clean and adjust the parking brake cables. $150
The big money is going to replace the rear shocks (regular, not the air bags) and control arm bushing one one side. The warranty covers the air suspension but not the regular shocks. Wear and tear, I assume. One has bled out so bad that it has deteriorated the control arm bushing. That item is covered, but since it was damaged by a non covered item, no coverage. Beat by a technicality. $1300
So I'm in about $2500 in my first year of ownership.
