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Well, no photos forthcoming, as at the Mechanic's shop this morning, he said that the pan is ribbed aluminum, not flat stamped steel, so no real flat place to put the heater, like on an American vehicle. Seems that also there is a shield below the pan, which takes some doing to remove, so I opted for no oil pan heater at this time. He also said that under 0 degree weather, I should not need it, but at 20 below, probably.. so I will just go to Pa. without it.. Best I can do amigos...
Well, you know what you said about "not knowing your vehicle"? Now I'm the one - I had no idea it was ribbed. I've never had the insulation off, but I do change the oil myself and I guess I never looked close enough. I wonder if there's enough vertical height to put one on the side (the oil would have to be at a high enough level to avoid burning out the heater, though). I'm going to look closer, myself.
Another option is the type of heater that simply splice into the lower radiator hose. Just as efficient as the "OEM" way, but much less expensive. I have never personally used these, but I wouldn't hesitate to use it. I've heard plenty of good things over the years from fiends/acquaintances/forums.
"Shield"... is that some type of skid plate? I don't think I have that - just the insulation blanket.
Fish - you peaked my interest. I removed the oil pan blanket when I got home. It's totally flat (and steel - not that it matters for this application). I don't know if there's a difference between your '07 and my '08, but I suppose if the part numbers where the same for both of our trucks then it should be the same thing. The third picture is just an "interesting" one. When I removed the blanket, I found that tap laying in there... a Snap-On 8mmx1.25. No idea how or why it is there, but it's a size I don't already own and it's my toolbox, now!
Last edited by DennisG01; Jan 3, 2017 at 06:09 PM.
and this? So I would think that placing it on the lower part, is what my mechanic was thinking if this is what you have?? I personally did not pull the pan blanket off, but will drive up on some blocks, when we get back to Texas, and see what they put under my truck..??
It looks like the upper part of the pan may be flat, at least, on this diagram.. Only way to know for sure is to crawl under and verify personally.
Well, this is really strange. I went to that link and plugged in my year (and 2009, for good measure) and the diagrams look exactly like the one you posted. However, if you look at the pictures I posted, they look nothing like the diagram. The main sump of my oil pan is one piece - you can see the oil drain (a quick drain thing I installed) and the oil level sensor. But you can also see that it's one piece - at least 4" or 5" tall - certainly taller than what the "lower pan" looks to be.
Because the oil drain is where it is, that MUST be the lowest level of the pan. I mean, I'm looking in the right place, right?
The "lower pan" on the diagram looks like it could be flat, but we can't see the underside and there could be fins there. So maybe you have exactly what is listed there and my pan is different for some reason? Or maybe there's still another explanation. I'll be curious to see what you find out.
For what it's worth, I called Wolverine and they said DO NOT put the blanket back on. Said those blankets have a tendency to catch oil (from oil changes without that quick thing I have!) and road grime. A 300*F heater in close proximity to a blanket that could possibly be soaked in oil wouldn't be good thing!
Now you have me pondering the reason you pan could be different from mine?? I am trying to think, but like 'Curley' of the 3Stooges once said..."Nothing's happening"... only this.. could your pan be an after market large capacity pan? How many qts/liters do you use in an oil change? I know that they made them for VW's in the 60's, for the old Beetles. I have one on my dune buggy, here in Baja, and it holds 5.5 liters, plus 0.5 more for the add on filter.. Hopefully, we get to the bottom of this... no pun intended
I believe the last time I did the oil I used about 8 or 9 quarts. I think this is the normal amount? I've only ever seen a couple pictures or threads over the time that I've been on this forum, but I don't recall anything looking different than what I have, though. Although I can't say I was ever really taking a real good look to compare something that specific, either. I am not the original owner of this vehicle so I can't say for sure, but nothing "appears" non-OEM about it.
This is really strange. Maybe if ALX is reading this he can offer some guidance. Either that, or we need some extra help to solve this mystery...
All true guys. I started this thread, just to see what, if any issues the CDI's had with cold weather. I am new to the MB world, at least to the modern ones, as have had a few of the 60's & 70's 4 & 5 cyl. diesels. No problems. However, when my older versions started cranking slowly, Hubards Automotive, in Eureka, Ca. pulled the starter, and showed me the carbon build up, in the grooves in the armature. They cleaned it, and 'Viola' it cranked like normal. If your starter has done a couple of starts, a day, for 6 or 7 years, that upwards of 5000 starts, and that might be an issue to consider.
Fishnut1
I know this is a 6 year old thread, but Hubbards in Eureka really caught my eye as I bought cars from Jerry Hubbard (now deceased) and they worked on my German cars in the 21 years I lived there. Good guy and good repair shop.
Thanks for the memory..........
I wonder how many posters in this thread are still hanging onto their OM642s and what their experiences have been.
I just bought mine with 97,000 miles. Unfortunately I learned about the dreaded oil cooler O-ring afterwards but I still love the car and especially the range.
Anyway, I'm curious too but I can't be of much help.
So far, my research does not discover 'cold weather' starting hints for my 2007 GL CDI diesel. ?? No block heater factory installed, and no MB parts available, at least not in Fort Worth?? I am headed to a colder climate in Feb. and am looking for some hints. Thanks in advance for any comments.
Fishnut1
So far I'm finding when the temperature reaches-10C I'm un able to start my ML320, All glow plugs are new, glow plug module is new, battery brand new. This was the case all last winter for me, and this winter now we had our first snow dump and temp dropped to -10C she won't start again.
I'm going to hoarding off the engine bay and using forced air flexible ducting from a Diesel heater to see if this works.
So far I'm finding when the temperature reaches-10C I'm un able to start my ML320, All glow plugs are new, glow plug module is new, battery brand new. This was the case all last winter for me, and this winter now we had our first snow dump and temp dropped to -10C she won't start again.
I'm going to hoarding off the engine bay and using forced air flexible ducting from a Diesel heater to see if this works.
Something else is going wrong. It SHOULD start - I've found I need an extra glow cycle or two sometimes in those temps - but it does start. Are you positive the plugs are ACTUALLY glowing?
I'm not suggesting you shouldn't make the system better than originally designed, though.
Last edited by DennisG01; Nov 25, 2024 at 12:02 PM.
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