jmhinkle

We just picked up a 2012 GL350 with ~39k miles this week. The maintenance records show the 30k mile service done around 35k. I'm gathering everything for the 40k service now so I can get it back on schedule and know that everything is up to date as it starts its life with us. I've searched around and found some very helpful DIY's for everything I need, but I have some questions about specific items.

1) Is there an easy way to tell which exact fuel filter I have? I'm assuming I have the normal 5 pin, expensive style filter, but before I order one I want to make sure.

2) For the front and rear diffs, 75W-90 GL5 is approved?

3) For the tranny service, the DIY links the sedan page, but do we have to worry about the different style pan.

4) Also for the tranny service are you guys popping the guide into the pan to drain? Do you replace the guide or does it snap back in place?

5) ATE TYP 200 is acceptable even though it isn't the odd DOT 4+ rating?

I think that is all for now. Please steer me towards any other threads I should read or items I should check out right away. Hopefully she stays healthy and dependable for us for a long time. I was quite happy getting 25+ MPG on the return trip from Tacoma to Portland after the purchase.

sak335

1. If you have a 2012 you should need this one, which you can easily check by removing the plastic engine cover: MANN-FILTER WK82014
2. That's what I used
3. Search the forum, there is an excellent write up on this procedure.
4. Yes, it's a pressure fit.
5. Yes, I used Valvoline Synthetic, which I also have used for years in the race car

musquaro

it's very important that you use a DEXOS 2 engine oil, so that the particules or ashes can be burn out in the DPF , you don't want them in the cat filter !
For the transmission, I would recommend that you used oil that are certified 236.15.

jmhinkle

I could give two craps about meeting GMs Dexos label, but it does anyway. I used the Valvoline 5W-40 MST which is getting great reviews on BITOG and meets the MB 229.51. The M1 that was in it according to the last sticker on the car when I bought it looked like absolutely crap with lots of filth left in the engine seen through the fill cap. I'll be doing a 5k mile change to get fresh oil in after mixing with the crap stuck in there. I can tell you the staining inside is already gone that was there.

I also used the Valvoline transmission fluid and it shifts smoother than before by a large margin. I installed a drain plug for ease on next fluid change.

M1 went into the front and rear diffs. Both of which had pretty clean fluid that I drained out.

My fuel filter was the kind I thought and I used the newest 015 model for replacement.

The cabin and air filters were horrendous. Both packed full of lots of crap.

I cleaned the oil from turbo inlet pipe. Going to install a catch can on that stupid oil tube. Like all new motors, that design is a problem and an OCC fixes a lot of issues.

After doing the brakes 2 weeks ago, I've noticed the front drivers outer CV has a small puncture starting to leak grease. I picked up a new axle for $63 and will swap that out next week.

Truck feels like it runs much freer and smoother now after all the service.

007_e350

I won't use anything other than oem ATF, just a very expensive component to replace not worth saving a few hundred in oil costs ($18 a qrt x 9 or 10)

jmhinkle

Mercedes doesn't make oil. They do come up with requirements for oil makers to meet in their units though. 236.14 in this case and Maxlife ATF meets that standard along with the newer 236.15.

IIRC MB labeled oils are rebranded Fuch's. If I could get Fuch's locally I would have considered it, but I'm not overpaying for rebranded stuff because it has a label on it from a company that doesn't make oil at all.