dr_crockett

Folks, I promise that I've already searched the forum, so please don't flame me if it's already answered.

I have a 2007 GL450. Ever since I purchased it used in 2013 with 60k miles, it has pulled to the right and had alignment issues. Over the past couple of years, I have replaced all of the air shocks with Arnott equivalents. I also replaced the entire front suspension (steering rack, lower control arms, upper control arms, tie rods, etc.) except for the shocks, which are in decent shape for the current 130k miles. N.B. - I did the work myself.

My front camber is out. The senior alignment tech at my local NTB advised that the vehicle design does not allow for camber adjustment beyond 0.5 degs-ish. When he discovered that I replaced the lower control arms with aftermarket (Loemforder) parts, he suggested that I re-install the original Mercedes items.

So, I did. Camber is worse. Alignment tech can't get it in (that's what she said). This weekend, he showed me a set of eccentric bolts that he said I need to source as it is the only way to adjust camber on these vehicles.

After an internet search, I see multiple instances of eccentric bolts and variable plates that look like larger versions of those circular metal spark-gap gauges.

Does anyone have experience in this? If so, can you recommend a remedy and/or a source for the correct parts? Otherwise, I'll pull the bolts and try to find something with the same dimensions that's eccentric if not necessarily blessed for the x164.

Thanks to all!

gl450x164

Wow cant believe they scammed you into replacing the lemfoeders with lemfoeders with the mb logo on them... Mb sells the bolts for the camber issue at least they dis for my w164

K-Mac

Yes Toe (directional) adjustment is all that is available OEM (new car industry’s best kept secret).

CAMBER – Allows to actually “change tire contact angles” to resolve costly, premature edge tire wear, improving traction/understeer/oversteer

CASTER – Correctly resolves steering pull, increases steering response. With better turn in and high speed directional control. Along with improved anti dive/lift under brake and acceleration

No above Camber and Caster adjustment is OK if maintained and driven at showroom height. But the reality of day to day commuting encountering high cambered roads or altered height through load carrying or lowering. Fitting wide profile tires. Curb knocks.... Camber and Caster - full adjustment capability is essential.

For the front (only) you can fit inaccurate (one only offset position) fluted bolts – but they only offer a minimal 0.3 degrees (1/8”)!

We saw the need therefore to re-instate from the early 90’s precise/full adjustment capability – TO FIX IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME.

THE K-MAC PATENTED DESIGN FRONT KIT PROVIDES MORE THAN 5 TIMES the adjustment range of the “one position” bolts and is PRECISE SINGLE WRENCH ADJUSTMENT – accurately on car (under load) direct on alignment rack. Resolving the costly premature inner edge wear even if the car has been lowered up to 50mm.

Extra feature (SUV’s) is that the front kit at the same time replaces the 4 highest wearing bushings. Especially the lower control arm inner rear which prematurely fail - and are expensive to replace. These K-MAC bushes have twice the load bearing area and are Caster adjustable.

Rear kit also provides precise Camber adjustment doubling the existing adjustment range.

W164/X164, W166/X166, W251
Front Camber and Caster kit #504016K $480
Rear Camber and Toe kit #504026 $480

Delivery one kit $30 (front and rear $50). We accept PayPal, Visa or MasterCard.

BlownV8

K-Mac, do you have anyone on the GL forum that uses your product and can give us a positive review?

dr_crockett

Thanks K-Mac. I appreciate your reply as it's clear that you understand the precise issue and have a possible remedy.

Honestly, those are great-looking bushings and bolts, but I'm choking on the $400+ price tag. As another member asked, can you point me to any satisfied customers on the board that I may contact as a reference?

Thanks again

C Scoggan

I also had a similar problem after lowering my 2011 ML550. Which was to much negative canner that the alignment shops could not correct for. To make a long story short. I used Kmac bushings front and rear and was able to gain the travel needed to get a factory specs alignment.

What i have now is:
2011 ML550 AMG look
Running 20" wheels with 65mm offset. Whel edge at flare edge.
295/40R20 Falcon tires. 12.1 wide each
Bilstein HD B6 struts
H&R Springs. 1.9" lower in front, 1.5" lower in back.
Drives like a dream.

Thanks,
Curt S.
Brownsburg, In.

K-Mac

Re the $400+ price tag – thank you for pointing this out! In fact it is the rear Camber and Toe kit that is $480. Front Camber and Caster is $595.

Both kits come with bush extraction tools (and lots of intensive, ongoing R&D – manufacturing “adjuster kits” now for 47 years and having more patents on innovative design breakthroughs than all other companies combined).

Do point out that Mercedes OEM (high volume/mass produced) “lower control arms” have heard where owners are paying $2400 just for a pair!

Have attached instruction sheet for the front kit and as mentioned further bonus is that it replaces the 2 rear highest wearing bushings at the same time with twice the load bearing area for extended life.

Contact K-MAC direct and can forward email address of satisfied customers.

mercedes_504016_instructions.pdf

BlownV8

C Scoggan,

How many miles have you put on the kit? I've read other users who have had the kmac bushings loosen after a few thousand miles and or control issues.

Really would.like the adjustability but don't want something that will need constant alignments since I drive so many miles. Also, the price.point is.very high when you factor in the cost.of installation and kit.purcjase price. Front and rear will cost around $2k total for purchase and install with alignment.

I've been on the forum for many years and have not heard any rave reviews. I want to believe in the product but have some serious concerns with longevity and dependability of the product.

C Scoggan

Hi Blown V8,

What car are you working on? Lowered?


I have not driven that much since all the changes to my car. Been using my daughters hybrid all summer. Today she went back to school and i am driving my car as a daily driver now. So can't offer any info either way on your concerns. But, I do do my own work on my car and i thought the new KMAC bushings where quite a bit larger then the oem bushes i had removed. The material is not rubber, it's some kind of hard poly urethane. They fit very, very tight right now. I have only 55k miles on my car now. I does drive great now and my wheels are set up nice. We'll just have to wait to see how they hold up, i suppose. I'll be going back to the alignment shop next week to straigthen up the steering wheel perfectly. Sloppy, they were.
Thanks,

Curt

K-Mac

Yes it is true constantly designing new products does create controversy for K-MAC.

But what you would expect with today’s autos only having Toe only - directional adjustment and we taking on the research and development (over 20 patents and patents pending) to re-instate Camber and Caster adjustment facilities.

Currently K-MAC front and rear adjuster kits total over 800 part numbers – World’s largest range Audi to Volvo.

So once again owners CAN ACTUALLY CHANGE TIRE “CONTACT ANGLES” to correctly resolve costly, premature edge tire wear, steering pull and improve traction.

We would rather be undertaking above and you must agree a whole lot better than the opposite of sitting on the fence – sourcing imports and doing nothing flawlessly!

REVIEWING QUALITY, STRENGTH, DURABILITY (47 years now of production).

1. “Bushings loosen” – Virtually all locking nuts in use today rely on teeth/friction to secure. If not fully tight can therefore loosen. We met this problem and resolved once and for all by designing/inventing a fail-safe system whereby once tightened it is impossible for nut to inadvertently loosen!

2. “Long term reliability” – K-MAC SUV type (front and rear) bushings we actually designed these back in 1993 – 24 years ago. So have been well and truly proven – virtual lifetime maintenance free (the #1 – fail safe lock system ensuring nuts are always tight/secure).

3. “Strength” – For ultimate proving we do our testing on the Race Track – all out 10/10ths heavy V8 competition racing. End of main straight hitting race curbs, fully launching and slamming down broadside lap after lap. Proudly situations where Race Safety scrutineers checking and evaluating brands rule K-MAC and only K-MAC bushings are allowed to be used.

4. “Re installation” – As per previously included front instruction sheet – have designed so no need to remove the two control arms. Same with rear – bush extraction tool also allowing bush fitment without arm removal.

SUMMARY – Always ongoing development – (anything and everything can be improved), as Ferdinand Porsche stated (and Elon Musk) – "if one does not fail at times then he has not challenged himself".

BlownV8

When did you fix the bolt loosening issues?

K-Mac

As mentioned, majority of lock nut brands rely on teeth and 100% tightness to prevent looseness issues.

Prior to August 2014 we were using this type (considered amongst the World's best - the Swedish Nord-Lok). Then we met the challenge and invented system whereby a nut once tightened (in any degree of tension) - simply cannot inadvertently loosen.