Main battery replacement 2012 GL350... Who's done it?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,189
Likes: 242
From: Albuquerque
'10 CL550, '12 GL550
Did not read every past post but can relate that the graphic indicating battery locations is for 166 and is not correct for 164.
the 164 auxiliary battery is just next to the main battery under the passenger seat. If you’re replacing the main, it’s a good time to replace the aux
ease of changing a positive cable is determined by ease of finding both ends … obviously.
the 164 auxiliary battery is just next to the main battery under the passenger seat. If you’re replacing the main, it’s a good time to replace the aux
ease of changing a positive cable is determined by ease of finding both ends … obviously.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 3,118
Likes: 782
NGL450 w/EORP, S550
Well, ultimately, what counts is the resistance in that cable. So find either end and measure it according to specifications, which I don’t know what are.
Why was your GL parked in the first place?
Why was your GL parked in the first place?
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2023
Posts: 18
Likes: 3
From: New Jersey, USA
2011 GL350
- Have not checked the resistance yet, but see the images below. Cable is browned and the top of the old battery is somewhat melted.
- GL was parked because the turbo went bad and I was shopping around for someone to replace it (shops), but they all wanted upwards of $5K to do it. Finally a buddy and I replaced the turbo with a new one, all gaskets and seals, and now we are here with electrical issues. Car won't turn over. Lots of voltage codes and the computers are not talking to each other. (See this post)
Member
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 126
Likes: 58
From: Gresham, OR
GL450
I saw something similar on my boat battery last year. The positive cable was loose, so it looked like it was arcing from the cable end to the battery and melted the battery around the positive post. The cable itself was fine, the arcing creates localized heat that damaged the insulation a little. But the metal conductors inside were fine. I had to replace the battery of course, but the terminal on the cable was still ok so I was able to tighten it onto the new battery post. I don't know what exactly is going on with your cable and battery, but maybe there was some arcing going on from the positive cable to the post? Also, from the look of the melted part of the battery, was the positive cable coming in at the wrong angle and the insulation pressed against the battery? Ideally the cable should be routed so that it doesn't touch the plastic part of the battery.
