GL Class (X164) 2007-2012: GL320CDI, GL420CDI, GL450, GL550

Starter Replacement

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Old Jul 16, 2018 | 01:13 PM
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From: Emmett, ID, USA
2007 GL450
Starter Replacement

Just got finished replacing the starter. It was an extraordinarily lengthy job, partly because I was working with my son, and partly because I am extraordinarily lame.

Here are some tips, not meant to be a comprehensive guide:

I removed the motor mount instead of the exhaust. This is a technique I read about on Mercedes Medic. It works well, except that the bolt on top of the motor mount is difficult to access and remove. I sprayed PB Blaster on it after it resisted substantial torque; it then released easily. I used the specialized motor mount bolt tool in addition to a flex stubby ratcheting wrench. The bolt was easy enough to remove after PB Blaster; I wouldn't have needed the special wrench, but I'd probably get one if I were attempting this again, as it is cheap and could be a real life saver.

Access the starter bolts looking forward from the mid point of the truck. The first bolt was easy to find, but the second took me forever - and I even ended up removing the wrong bolt, above the correct one, because I couldn't see the correct upper bolt. I went nuts trying to find it, and only later realized I could see the bolt from the rear.

The solenoid housing heat shield didn't quite fit the new starter. It's loose. I used the spec sheet provided with the starter as a shim. I recommend test fitting the starter heat shield off the motor.

Note carefully the alignment, etc., of the battery and solenoid wires. My son disconnected, and I reconnected, and it took some tries to get them oriented right. Thankfully, they're tucked out of the way when correct, but they aren't easy to put on.

There's a funny little plastic cap on the main battery wire terminal. I discarded mine, as it did not survive de-installation. and taped up the exposed electrical with self fusing rubber tape.

Do not reconnect the battery before you install the motor mount heat shield. Its final position is perilously close to the battery terminals, and I arc welded it a couple of times before capitulating and unhooking the battery. Pay very careful attention to the orientation of the heat shield when you remove it; the installation is maddening, but when you get the orientation right, it just drops right in place and basically won't budge after that time.

Consider removing or replacing the bank 1 upstream oxy sensor while you're in there. It will make removing the starter easier.

All in all, I'd recommend the motor mount technique. It's not without its pitfalls, but it sure seems easier than removing the exhaust.


Working on that truck reminds me of the sadistic puzzles from Saw. You have to assemble a jigsaw puzzle inside a box; you can't see what you're doing, and the walls of the box are covered with barbed wire.
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Old Jan 16, 2023 | 02:08 PM
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Great job!
wonder if you've checked related youtube videos. They show some tricks of rotating starter to certain angle for it to come out of the tight space.
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Old Jan 16, 2023 | 02:10 PM
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by the way, wonder you feel any improved starting after replacing the starter,
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Old Jan 16, 2023 | 02:17 PM
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It was a long time ago, but yes it fixed the sluggish starting problem.

It would crank slowly when warm. Not too bad when cold.

I never researched the alternative removal methods. Supposedly you can remove it without even loosening the motor mount.
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Old Jan 16, 2023 | 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by eric_in_sd
It was a long time ago, but yes it fixed the sluggish starting problem.

It would crank slowly when warm. Not too bad when cold.

I never researched the alternative removal methods. Supposedly you can remove it without even loosening the motor mount.
yes that's what they show in some youtube videos.
e.g.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=DS3RHnDJs4s&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE


Last edited by texas008; Jan 16, 2023 at 03:01 PM.
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