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2010 Mercedes GL450; 2000 Mercedes ML55 AMG; 2016 VW GLI SEL Stick!!!
Originally Posted by Iceytys
Not sure about the turn signal bulbs yet as I havent installed as I am waiting on other bulbs, but they are canbus and supposed to not hyperflash....we shall see.
On the Philips parking light, yes they are Philips....Hmmmm....still waiting on them, but if they throw errors, I bought some extra Canbus T10 LED lights, so if they throw off a error will swap em.
Good to know on the back up lights, but they too are Canbus.........guess Ill find out too....LOL.
Thanks
Not all canbus parking light bulbs are made equally. 😡🙄
I went throigh 4 pairs and 3 different brands before I got to one that lasted and kept working. The rest kept flickering and failing after a week or two.
The one I mentioned works great, and the heat dissipation tech is amazing.
2010 Mercedes GL450; 2000 Mercedes ML55 AMG; 2016 VW GLI SEL Stick!!!
Originally Posted by Solo wing
I just installed OSRAM D1S CBB bulbs. The 7000k thing is just marketing thing, as they are pure white, with a slight hint of blue closer to 5500k. They look great and elegant. Lighting up more than the factory OSRAM/ Philips. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nice review! I think the osram cbb and philips xtremevision are very similar. It just comes to preference and marketing.
I'm Dutch...so I guess we know who I'm going to support ��
Do you like your parking lights ? I saw in your review you have the yellow ones.
TBH I don't like how yellow parking lights are, even though they are the blue bulbs ( but I geuss nothing beats LED/HID in color)
I tried Lasfit T10 W5W LED bulbs but they kept flashing on & off then stopped working. So I gave up the search, add to that how PITA it is to replace them.
2010 Mercedes GL450; 2000 Mercedes ML55 AMG; 2016 VW GLI SEL Stick!!!
Originally Posted by Solo wing
TBH I don't like how yellow parking lights are, even though they are the blue bulbs ( but I geuss nothing beats LED/HID in color)
I tried Lasfit T10 W5W LED bulbs but they kept flashing on & off then stopped working. So I gave up the search, add to that how PITA it is to replace them.
yeah. Its a pain.
I got it down to an art and science now. 10" needle nose pliers and they're out in a jiff.
Try out the ones I posted if you feel like giving it another go
2010 Mercedes GL450; 2000 Mercedes ML55 AMG; 2016 VW GLI SEL Stick!!!
Originally Posted by DrMel
+1 to the 10" pliers! I used them to replace my parking bulbs in about 15 minutes total.
for those in the dc area , I'm more than willing to give a gift to you this holiday season! 🎄🎁
I have spare bulbs from my 10 pack parking bulbs I listed earlier in the thread ; and if you need help i also have the 10" pliers if you need help getting them in 😆
2010 Mercedes GL450; 2000 Mercedes ML55 AMG; 2016 VW GLI SEL Stick!!!
Originally Posted by eric_in_sd
My '07 doesn't have "inner and outer" turn signals. Just one at the corner. Am I missing something?
I wonder if the '10 has more tolerant software on the CAN bus. If not, I'm real curious what your bulbs are doing with the extra wattage they're dumping as heat. With a load resistor, at least you're getting that heat away from the socket, etc. The excess heat shouldn't be a problem, because the peripheral lights are only on for brief periods, but still I'm curious.
It's pretty stupid that by '07 the MB engineers didn't anticipate people installing low power consumption replacement bulbs.
My high beam H7 LEDs are fantastic. It's unreal how much light they throw down-road.
2010 Mercedes GL450; 2000 Mercedes ML55 AMG; 2016 VW GLI SEL Stick!!!
I just installed the ijdmtoy license plate bulbs that a fellow member mentioned for our cars and they work great!
they come with a built in resistor and they work great! It is essentially a light bulb and glass cover piece in one and it works perfectly.
I'll up date the post at the very top to include it
Word of caution before you order. Ijdmtoy has three versions listed for sale on Amazon and their website.
2 with a built in resistor, one without.
Stay with the built in resistor.
Also check to make sure that you look at the design of your license plate design before you order. The gas vs diesel in the listing isn't correct. My gl450 had the curved license plate lights; and I had ordered what ijdmtoy had said would fit gas models first.
Be sure to check what you have on your car first before you order and save yourself the headache I had to return and reorder.
I contacted ijdmtoy to have them update their listings to show the correct information. We will see if anything comes from it.
If it is curved, go with the link that describes itself as diesel ones only.
iJDMTOY OEM-Fit 3W Full LED License Plate Light Kit For Mercedes ML M GL R Class Diesel Version ONLY, Powered by 3-piece Osram Xenon White LED & Can-bus Error Free
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K4T75FF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_--LjCbNKG7JQC
If your light is square go with the one that is specified gas models only.
iJDMTOY OEM-Fit 3W Full LED License Plate Light Kit For Mercedes ML M GL R Class Gasoline Version ONLY, Powered by 3-piece Osram Xenon White LED & Can-bus Error Free https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K4WQKVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_X.LjCbB4EBE20
If in any doubt call ijdmtoy and ask for Cesar.
He helped me out with my return and trying to fix the listings they have on Amazon to reflect the discrepancies.
We have a ML-350 and the headlights really suck! Big time! The low beam is so low and warm that it doesn't aluminate. The high beam is marginally acceptable.
Replaced the high beam with LED and they're fantastic. But nothing can be done to the low beam that I know of. I'm thinking of adjusting our high beam angle down so they can be used as low beam without annoying oncoming drivers.
I have a Ford pickup. Replaced the halogen bulbs in the headlights and both low and high are fantastic. It's a shame that Mercedes can't match Ford. But it doesn't in so many ways. Our next family car will not be a Mercedes. Too much money for an inferior product.
That was a joke right? Now we are comparing lights and MB vs Ford and see which one has the upper hand? Halogen bulbs in these cars are optional, as far as lights technology, I'm sure everyone would tell you that MB is light years ahead of Ford. That is not an opinion, it is a fact. I would love to see what Ford product you are going to compare the GL to.
Last edited by interiormagic; 01-03-2019 at 09:26 PM.
2010 Mercedes GL450; 2000 Mercedes ML55 AMG; 2016 VW GLI SEL Stick!!!
Originally Posted by interiormagic
That was a joke right? Now we are comparing lights and MB vs Ford and see which one has the upper hand? Halogen bulbs in these cars are optional, as far as lights technology, I'm sure everyone would tell you that MB is light years ahead of Ford. That is not an opinion, it is a fact. I would love to see what Ford product you are going to compare the GL to.
let's be honest...the stock halogen lights are horrible and sub par.
This poster has a legitimate gripe and frustration that gets raised time and time again by owners who are surprised and frusterated by an inadequate product.
That is a fact and mb should be ashamed to continue selling them on gls, gle, e cla c and other models as standard.
But let's not dredge up old posts. We try to have solutions to failings ; like the Azn optics kit that solves al the gripes.
let's be honest...the stock halogen lights are horrible and sub par.
This poster has a legitimate gripe and frustration that gets raised time and time again by owners who are surprised and frusterated by an inadequate product.
That is a fact and mb should be ashamed to continue selling them on gls, gle, e cla c and other models as standard.
The MB halogen headlights are ridiculous in the context of a premium brand. As halogen lights go, they are normal, but the sad truth is they sell halogen lights as standard so they can charge kilobucks for HID upgrade.
Lighting is not rocket science. Halogen headlights were a huge improvement over regular incandescent back in the day; the next evolutionary step was HID, followed by LED. MB's halogens are at par for the technology, but are grossly superseded by later technologies.
This ain't rocket science, and it's lame to imply that one automobile maker knows something special. Don't be lame.
Originally Posted by kombifan
But let's not dredge up old posts. We try to have solutions to failings ; like the Azn optics kit that solves al the gripes.
Agreed; think and act positively instead of griping like menopausal spinsters.
The LED solutions work, but they've been rushed to market and the surrounding hardware is not mature. You can be a pioneer and go LED, but remember that pioneers got shot by Indians. That said, it's been a year and maybe the current crop of products is better. Do your homework. These forums are about resourceful guys, not Little Women.
I just installed the ijdmtoy license plate bulbs that a fellow member mentioned for our cars and they work great!
they come with a built in resistor and they work great! It is essentially a light bulb and glass cover piece in one and it works perfectly.
I'll up date the post at the very top to include it
Word of caution before you order. Ijdmtoy has three versions listed for sale on Amazon and their website.
2 with a built in resistor, one without.
Stay with the built in resistor.
Also check to make sure that you look at the design of your license plate design before you order. The gas vs diesel in the listing isn't correct. My gl450 had the curved license plate lights; and I had ordered what ijdmtoy had said would fit gas models first.
Be sure to check what you have on your car first before you order and save yourself the headache I had to return and reorder.
I contacted ijdmtoy to have them update their listings to show the correct information. We will see if anything comes from it.
If it is curved, go with the link that describes itself as diesel ones only.
iJDMTOY OEM-Fit 3W Full LED License Plate Light Kit For Mercedes ML M GL R Class Diesel Version ONLY, Powered by 3-piece Osram Xenon White LED & Can-bus Error Free https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K4T75FF..._--LjCbNKG7JQC
If your light is square go with the one that is specified gas models only.
iJDMTOY OEM-Fit 3W Full LED License Plate Light Kit For Mercedes ML M GL R Class Gasoline Version ONLY, Powered by 3-piece Osram Xenon White LED & Can-bus Error Free https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K4WQKVM..._X.LjCbB4EBE20
If in any doubt call ijdmtoy and ask for Cesar.
He helped me out with my return and trying to fix the listings they have on Amazon to reflect the discrepancies.
Well, I feel like an idiot for not reading your entire post in detail!
I ordered the gas version, finally received them today, and yep, they don't fit. I looked at the part number of the housing cover and it matches the part number listed on their diesel version. Let the fun return process begin...
Happy to report...all the Ebay bulbs I ordered are all in...and have no error messages. So if anyone is looking to upgrade...se my other posts in this thread.
I have gone through 2 sets of HID bulbs...and headlights dont seem to be brighter......however I will admit.....I havent purchased the high dollar Philip's or Orsam bulbs......probably the housing / projector that's really holding these units back....but I am not sure I want to take the time and expense of replacing the units...lol. We'll see.
By looking at the picutres of that product on Ebay, they won't fit the x164 as listed. They look just like the ijdmtoy ones I got from Amazon. The housing should be rounded. Does that seller have to ones that are rounded?
Yes...if you look at Kombifans post....they are listing the wrong lights....I think however the seller might have corrected the listing.
I would send a message to seller when you purchase...just to be safe. Weird how diesel and gas would be different ....how does that even make sense?!?!? 🤦*♂️
2010 Mercedes GL450; 2000 Mercedes ML55 AMG; 2016 VW GLI SEL Stick!!!
Originally Posted by DrMel
By looking at the picutres of that product on Ebay, they won't fit the x164 as listed. They look just like the ijdmtoy ones I got from Amazon. The housing should be rounded. Does that seller have to ones that are rounded?
If you look at the very first post it is all there.
Descriptions of which ones to buy to match your own and links 😊
The driver side keeps blinking before it goes off. The passenger side comes on but when the engine is running, it starts to blinking and goes off as well.
Still confused about the turn signal lights. The Philips site has Front Inner Turn Signal and Front Outer Turn Signal. The manual has Turn Signal Lamp and Side Marker Lamp, so which is which?
My guess is Side Marker Lamp = Front Outer Turn Signal and Turn Signal Lamp = Front Inner Turn Signal?
New to the MB world and I've had my head under the hood of this car more often than the other cars I've had just for lights!
If you are willing to install a resistor in parallel with the bulbs, I have found that 100 ohm works for the "parking" lamps. Those are the 192 / W5W bulbs to the inside of the high beams.
The resistor will dissipate about 1.5W, so you have to use a power resistor of some sort. A 5W, 100 ohm resistor would work. The computer needs to see enough current flow, or it concludes that the bulb is burned out. That's why it flashes on and off; it is testing the bulb.
The front corner marker lights are a similar bulb, so 100 ohm should work there as well. I did the calculations on what I needed to substitute the current and came up with 30 ohm. It just happened that I installed 100 ohm and they work on the parking lights. I guess the wattage is sufficient to make the computer recognize the bulb as still good.
Unfortunately you can't just put in 5W LED 192 bulbs. They will melt the plastic. That also would be insanely bright.
I put in nice bright amber LEDs in the marker lights (the ones on the corner) and am very happy. I reckon they are a good safety item, making the vehicle more visible from the side. But it was a giant pain removing and reinstalling those bulbs. Silicone fluid on the o-ring helps a lot.
There is only one front turn signal bulb. It is the 1156 in amber. I didn't bother to change those, nor the turn signals in the rear. I did, however, change the backup bulbs and one of the two brake bulbs on each side; for those I put in a 10 ohm parallel resistor. Note for the brake bulbs, you must use a dimmable LED, as the brake circuit has a low mode for use as a marker light. I think most 12VDC bulbs are dimmable, though; they just push the straight 12V through the LEDs, not doing any voltage step-up or down.
One thing you have to be careful of: I noticed the top review said the longevity was a problem. LEDs are funny; they make more light per watt, but they generate a lot of internal heat that has to be disposed of. Incandescent bulbs are made of metal and glass so are heat resistant. LEDs are made of plastic and other heat sensitive components. Those bulbs you linked to brag about being CAN bus error free; they probably do this by simply using a lot of power, which they have to get rid of somehow. A two watt LED bulb is very bright, it's like a 20W incandescent. So I'm guessing people are complaining about early life failure because the bulbs are overheating. They finally made LED headlights that work only by putting cooling fans on the back to take away the waste heat. Those tiny bulbs don't have that option.
So I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure that if you get a small bulb that is CAN bus error free, the trade off will probably be a short lifetime. I kinda think you should shoot for 1/10 the power of the incandescent, or 1/2 W. Put a 100 ohm resistor in parallel and you add 1-1/2 W, for a total of 2W, which seems to make the CAN bus happy.
The marker lights don't have to be amber, but I dunno - seems like they ought to be. Like, you don't want someone looking at your vehicle from the side and thinking you're coming at them.
The factory marker bulb is an amber-coated incandescent, so the amber LED (which is pure yellow light) is much brighter.
I put amber LEDs in the parking lights 'cause I think they look cool, but I regretted it when I was trying to navigate a dark campground on my road trip. So I just bought some white bulbs to put in there.
One thing you have to be careful of: I noticed the top review said the longevity was a problem. LEDs are funny; they make more light per watt, but they generate a lot of internal heat that has to be disposed of. Incandescent bulbs are made of metal and glass so are heat resistant. LEDs are made of plastic and other heat sensitive components. Those bulbs you linked to brag about being CAN bus error free; they probably do this by simply using a lot of power, which they have to get rid of somehow. A two watt LED bulb is very bright, it's like a 20W incandescent. So I'm guessing people are complaining about early life failure because the bulbs are overheating. They finally made LED headlights that work only by putting cooling fans on the back to take away the waste heat. Those tiny bulbs don't have that option.
So I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure that if you get a small bulb that is CAN bus error free, the trade off will probably be a short lifetime. I kinda think you should shoot for 1/10 the power of the incandescent, or 1/2 W. Put a 100 ohm resistor in parallel and you add 1-1/2 W, for a total of 2W, which seems to make the CAN bus happy.
The marker lights don't have to be amber, but I dunno - seems like they ought to be. Like, you don't want someone looking at your vehicle from the side and thinking you're coming at them.
The factory marker bulb is an amber-coated incandescent, so the amber LED (which is pure yellow light) is much brighter.
I put amber LEDs in the parking lights 'cause I think they look cool, but I regretted it when I was trying to navigate a dark campground on my road trip. So I just bought some white bulbs to put in there.
The light/W vs size vs heat makes sense. How did you add a resistor to a small parking light? On some of the LED lights, I can see unpopulated pads can't tell how the actual circuit connects.
I'm still kinda divided on all white vs a mix of white and amber.
The light/W vs size vs heat makes sense. How did you add a resistor to a small parking light? On some of the LED lights, I can see unpopulated pads can't tell how the actual circuit connects.
I'm still kinda divided on all white vs a mix of white and amber.
You have to actually wire the resistor in parallel with the bulb. Splice into the two wires going into the bulb; connect one side to one end of the resistor and the other side to the other end. I'm fussy, so I soldered mine, but scotchlok connectors should work fine.
What I'd really love to do is hack the computer's code so it is much more tolerant of low current going through the bulb, but that's a pipe dream.
I'm a little late to the game, but I wanted to tack on my experience with the license plate bulbs in the interest of consolidating info. I got some LEDs for my 2010 that were the brightness and temperature I wanted, and little surprise, it threw notifications on the dash for both. I ended up soldering some resistors on the back of the unit. It's closer than I'd like to the housing since it's putting out about 4W of heat, but so far it hasn't melted the plastic or anything. I used 91 ohm 2W resistors which almost doubled the electrical load from around 2W to just under 4.
12-19-2018, 04:29 PM
