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2012 GL350 - Oil Disappearing- Crankcase Vent Vale?

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GL Class (X164) 2007-2012: GL320CDI, GL420CDI, GL450, GL550

2012 GL350 - Oil Disappearing- Crankcase Vent Vale?

 
Old 06-10-2019, 05:41 PM
  #26  
alx
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Lol egt of om642 is about 800- 1000 degrees on average and about 1200 when you are really pushing it. Yes, you cooked that sealant right out of there.
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Old 06-10-2019, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by alx View Post
Lol egt of om642 is about 800- 1000 degrees on average and about 1200 when you are really pushing it. Yes, you cooked that sealant right out of there.
Yeah, I'm not sure what I was thinking. Seemed like a good idea at the time. Well, hopefully that means my cartridge is still ok.
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Old 06-10-2019, 07:56 PM
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Pre Oil?

Originally Posted by ccrobin View Post
Yeah, I'm not sure what I was thinking. Seemed like a good idea at the time. Well, hopefully that means my cartridge is still ok.
Did you add oil to "pre oil" the new turbo cartridge? O think they recomend adding 30cc of oil to get it lubed til oil pressure gets up to operational pressure.
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Old 06-11-2019, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by alx View Post
Lol egt of om642 is about 800- 1000 degrees on average and about 1200 when you are really pushing it. Yes, you cooked that sealant right out of there.
Well, I think I found my issue...
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Old 06-11-2019, 10:11 PM
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gasket...

I would say you are on to it! Normally though you see a black soot around exhaust leaks. Are you going to replace the gaskets with new?
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Old 06-12-2019, 05:07 AM
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Originally Posted by KrustyKustom View Post
I would say you are on to it! Normally though you see a black soot around exhaust leaks. Are you going to replace the gaskets with new?
It may not be the only leak as There were a few spots I had the gasket sealant on as well. Also, it has only had a few hundred miles (and only heard the leak for about 50 miles) so it may not have had time to form soot.

As far as replacing the metal gaskets. I'll have to see what it looks like when I get it all apart. I am headed out of town for a few days so I won't have a chance to check it out until this weekend.
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Old 06-16-2019, 08:51 PM
  #32  
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Update:

I installed to cross threaded bolt properly (fortunately did not have to re-tap) and the offending noise is gone.

Reset the MIL and went for a good long drive. Dang MIL returned about 30 minutes into the drive. Scanning with DAS reveals only a stored regeneration aborted event.

Using DAS, checked actual values of the DPF, and all was within specs (Load value actually has been reduced to 4 now).

Nosing around a bit, I decided to look at values for the Exhaust Gas Recirculation. Here I found the Boost Pressure is out of spec. Values should be 898-948, but my actual value is 965. Could this slightly high boost pressure interrupt the proper completion of a regen cycle?

Anyone with tips on where to start with finding the root cause of this?

Thanks for those of you still following and offering assistance! I feel I'm very close to getting this thing finally running properly after months of DPF issues.
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Old 06-19-2019, 11:39 PM
  #33  
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Catch Can install complete..

The replacement Crankcase Valve did not do the trick so I decided to upgrade my catch can to the ProVent 200 (1" lines in and out). Here are the pics,

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...on-solved.html

We will see if this helps. I am amazed at idle how much volume of air comes through the catch can. If the engine is producing more crankcase blow by i will surely see oil begin to accumulate since the diesel has so much compression it is not likely to burn oil til the rings are bad.
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Old 06-20-2019, 09:33 AM
  #34  
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Well, for me the new turbo cartridge seems to have cured the oil consumption (or at least slowed it down considerably). All seems good now except a slightly high boost pressure. I've not had much luck finding a good starting point to figure that issue out. Not sure if I need to run another cycle to clean the DPF, if it is just a sensor, if the crankcase valve is the culprit, or my EGR.

Ugh! I'll be happy when I finally get this all dialed in.
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Old 06-21-2019, 08:43 AM
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So after some research my suspicion is that the EGR system is likely clogged and sticking and the cause of the high boost pressure. I am going to conduct an EGR cleaning using Lubri Moly 20208 Intake System Cleaner. I'm still trying to determine the best place to access and spray the cleaner into the system, but it seems like it should be fairly straightforward (I'm open to suggestions if anyone reading has done this before). I also purchased a can of Diesel Purge and am going to run it direct to the system by draining the fuel filter and filling with the purge.

I'll post my results and try to also get some photos of the process in case it goes well and others wish to try.
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Old 06-22-2019, 10:12 AM
  #36  
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Remove the egr valve on the right rear side of engine. Easy job. You might to have to pry it off. Be gentle. Clean egr if dirty.

however, I believe your dpf needs to be cleaned manually. Or at least perform the cleaner procedure again.
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Old 06-22-2019, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by alx View Post
Remove the egr valve on the right rear side of engine. Easy job. You might to have to pry it off. Be gentle. Clean egr if dirty.

however, I believe your dpf needs to be cleaned manually. Or at least perform the cleaner procedure again.
Thanks, I was wondering about doing the DPF cleaner again. I'm wondering, since the turbo was leaking oil, should I be concerned about cleaning the front Cat as well? When cleaning the DPF from the sensor port I don't think any cleaner gets to the primary cat. Could that also be causing some excess pressure?
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Old 07-02-2019, 02:48 PM
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Getting very frustrated...

Originally Posted by alx View Post
Remove the egr valve on the right rear side of engine. Easy job. You might to have to pry it off. Be gentle. Clean egr if dirty.

however, I believe your dpf needs to be cleaned manually. Or at least perform the cleaner procedure again.
So I performed in intake cleaning with the Lubri Moly product. Engine is running better, but still can't keep the MIL from coming back. Only code I am finding in the control unit is a stored (not active) DPF aborted error. If I clear the code and perform the manual regen while driving it will successfully complete the regeneration, but the MIL and code comes back within 50-100 miles.

I started using DAS to go through all the various acuations related to the ECU, and found that the one for the Y27/9 (Left EGR positioner) failed. I am thinking that the EGR is probably still stuck. My next step is to pull the EGR as you mentioned to clean it, but with this error would I be better to just replace it? (Not sure if the actuation failure could be from it being dirty or if it is more of a positive indicator of a more serious failure).

Also, could this EGR issue cause the passive Regeneration to abort like I am experiencing, while at the same time somehow not interfering with the active regeneration I can complete via DAS?

What other issues could be causing the regen to abort without throwing an active or other identifiable code?
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Old 07-03-2019, 10:36 PM
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CCRobin,

There is a whole list of parameters that can cause the regen to abort or not finish up. I think I have the list of parameters and will see if I can link them up.

I just moved back to 5w/40 (Motul 229.51) from using the MB branded oil my cars whole life with the last three years using the MB branded oil 5w30/229.52. I already see less mist in the catch can from the 5/30 down here in Hot Houston. Still watching my consumption which I have determined is likely blow by rather than turbo leakage which is a pisser at only 144k of 5k or less oil changes with the correct oil since new. It has been interesting to watch how much crank case pressure there is on the OM642.
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Old 07-04-2019, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by KrustyKustom View Post
CCRobin,

There is a whole list of parameters that can cause the regen to abort or not finish up. I think I have the list of parameters and will see if I can link them up.

I just moved back to 5w/40 (Motul 229.51) from using the MB branded oil my cars whole life with the last three years using the MB branded oil 5w30/229.52. I already see less mist in the catch can from the 5/30 down here in Hot Houston. Still watching my consumption which I have determined is likely blow by rather than turbo leakage which is a pisser at only 144k of 5k or less oil changes with the correct oil since new. It has been interesting to watch how much crank case pressure there is on the OM642.
Wow, a list of parameters would sure help to narrow it down.

I also just switched to 5W40 to see if that slows the oil consumption. May have to look into a catch can myself.

Thanks for any info you may find to help get my regens working again.
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Old 07-12-2019, 03:01 PM
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Pressue

Is that turbo pressure just at idle or are you viewing live data? Iíve got massive oil consumption and dpr is regenerating every 50-250 miles. Iíve been getting the regen frequency is not ok, but now Iím getting the regen aborted code as well. I only have an autel scanner so I canít do as much. I also recently got no can message from upstream and downstream NOx sensors, but both are brand new and calibrated by dealer. I also had no CAN communication w the control unit. I cleared those and they are yet to return. Iíve been monitoring various pressures via live data, and will post them when I compile them. Where did you read the acceptable pressure for the turbo? It would be good to know proper values for everything, back pressure, differential pressure etc. I do have a recent EGR valve as well as rebuilt adblue tank in addition to both NOx sensors. Essentially everything minus the particulate filter itself. Iím wondering if the EGR could have gotten clogged up since replacement. Iíve seen some pictures of sludged up OM642 on that seized OM642 thread. I ran some amsoil engine flush at the last oil change, but ití would probably be wise to drop the pan for a look. Sounds like my turbo needs to be rebuilt to alleviate the oil consumption before cleaning the DPF, but then Iím scared of the back pressure blowing the turbo again. Guess they should be done at the same time. Iíve ordered the luqi moly products for good measure.

Last edited by TGcville; 07-12-2019 at 03:03 PM.
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