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Yeah, I'm not sure what I was thinking. Seemed like a good idea at the time. Well, hopefully that means my cartridge is still ok.
Did you add oil to "pre oil" the new turbo cartridge? O think they recomend adding 30cc of oil to get it lubed til oil pressure gets up to operational pressure.
I would say you are on to it! Normally though you see a black soot around exhaust leaks. Are you going to replace the gaskets with new?
It may not be the only leak as There were a few spots I had the gasket sealant on as well. Also, it has only had a few hundred miles (and only heard the leak for about 50 miles) so it may not have had time to form soot.
As far as replacing the metal gaskets. I'll have to see what it looks like when I get it all apart. I am headed out of town for a few days so I won't have a chance to check it out until this weekend.
I installed to cross threaded bolt properly (fortunately did not have to re-tap) and the offending noise is gone.
Reset the MIL and went for a good long drive. Dang MIL returned about 30 minutes into the drive. Scanning with DAS reveals only a stored regeneration aborted event.
Using DAS, checked actual values of the DPF, and all was within specs (Load value actually has been reduced to 4 now).
Nosing around a bit, I decided to look at values for the Exhaust Gas Recirculation. Here I found the Boost Pressure is out of spec. Values should be 898-948, but my actual value is 965. Could this slightly high boost pressure interrupt the proper completion of a regen cycle?
Anyone with tips on where to start with finding the root cause of this?
Thanks for those of you still following and offering assistance! I feel I'm very close to getting this thing finally running properly after months of DPF issues.
We will see if this helps. I am amazed at idle how much volume of air comes through the catch can. If the engine is producing more crankcase blow by i will surely see oil begin to accumulate since the diesel has so much compression it is not likely to burn oil til the rings are bad.
Well, for me the new turbo cartridge seems to have cured the oil consumption (or at least slowed it down considerably). All seems good now except a slightly high boost pressure. I've not had much luck finding a good starting point to figure that issue out. Not sure if I need to run another cycle to clean the DPF, if it is just a sensor, if the crankcase valve is the culprit, or my EGR.
Ugh! I'll be happy when I finally get this all dialed in.
So after some research my suspicion is that the EGR system is likely clogged and sticking and the cause of the high boost pressure. I am going to conduct an EGR cleaning using Lubri Moly 20208 Intake System Cleaner. I'm still trying to determine the best place to access and spray the cleaner into the system, but it seems like it should be fairly straightforward (I'm open to suggestions if anyone reading has done this before). I also purchased a can of Diesel Purge and am going to run it direct to the system by draining the fuel filter and filling with the purge.
I'll post my results and try to also get some photos of the process in case it goes well and others wish to try.
Remove the egr valve on the right rear side of engine. Easy job. You might to have to pry it off. Be gentle. Clean egr if dirty.
however, I believe your dpf needs to be cleaned manually. Or at least perform the cleaner procedure again.
Thanks, I was wondering about doing the DPF cleaner again. I'm wondering, since the turbo was leaking oil, should I be concerned about cleaning the front Cat as well? When cleaning the DPF from the sensor port I don't think any cleaner gets to the primary cat. Could that also be causing some excess pressure?
Remove the egr valve on the right rear side of engine. Easy job. You might to have to pry it off. Be gentle. Clean egr if dirty.
however, I believe your dpf needs to be cleaned manually. Or at least perform the cleaner procedure again.
So I performed in intake cleaning with the Lubri Moly product. Engine is running better, but still can't keep the MIL from coming back. Only code I am finding in the control unit is a stored (not active) DPF aborted error. If I clear the code and perform the manual regen while driving it will successfully complete the regeneration, but the MIL and code comes back within 50-100 miles.
I started using DAS to go through all the various acuations related to the ECU, and found that the one for the Y27/9 (Left EGR positioner) failed. I am thinking that the EGR is probably still stuck. My next step is to pull the EGR as you mentioned to clean it, but with this error would I be better to just replace it? (Not sure if the actuation failure could be from it being dirty or if it is more of a positive indicator of a more serious failure).
Also, could this EGR issue cause the passive Regeneration to abort like I am experiencing, while at the same time somehow not interfering with the active regeneration I can complete via DAS?
What other issues could be causing the regen to abort without throwing an active or other identifiable code?
There is a whole list of parameters that can cause the regen to abort or not finish up. I think I have the list of parameters and will see if I can link them up.
I just moved back to 5w/40 (Motul 229.51) from using the MB branded oil my cars whole life with the last three years using the MB branded oil 5w30/229.52. I already see less mist in the catch can from the 5/30 down here in Hot Houston. Still watching my consumption which I have determined is likely blow by rather than turbo leakage which is a pisser at only 144k of 5k or less oil changes with the correct oil since new. It has been interesting to watch how much crank case pressure there is on the OM642.
There is a whole list of parameters that can cause the regen to abort or not finish up. I think I have the list of parameters and will see if I can link them up.
I just moved back to 5w/40 (Motul 229.51) from using the MB branded oil my cars whole life with the last three years using the MB branded oil 5w30/229.52. I already see less mist in the catch can from the 5/30 down here in Hot Houston. Still watching my consumption which I have determined is likely blow by rather than turbo leakage which is a pisser at only 144k of 5k or less oil changes with the correct oil since new. It has been interesting to watch how much crank case pressure there is on the OM642.
Wow, a list of parameters would sure help to narrow it down.
I also just switched to 5W40 to see if that slows the oil consumption. May have to look into a catch can myself.
Thanks for any info you may find to help get my regens working again.
Is that turbo pressure just at idle or are you viewing live data? I’ve got massive oil consumption and dpr is regenerating every 50-250 miles. I’ve been getting the regen frequency is not ok, but now I’m getting the regen aborted code as well. I only have an autel scanner so I can’t do as much. I also recently got no can message from upstream and downstream NOx sensors, but both are brand new and calibrated by dealer. I also had no CAN communication w the control unit. I cleared those and they are yet to return. I’ve been monitoring various pressures via live data, and will post them when I compile them. Where did you read the acceptable pressure for the turbo? It would be good to know proper values for everything, back pressure, differential pressure etc. I do have a recent EGR valve as well as rebuilt adblue tank in addition to both NOx sensors. Essentially everything minus the particulate filter itself. I’m wondering if the EGR could have gotten clogged up since replacement. I’ve seen some pictures of sludged up OM642 on that seized OM642 thread. I ran some amsoil engine flush at the last oil change, but it’ would probably be wise to drop the pan for a look. Sounds like my turbo needs to be rebuilt to alleviate the oil consumption before cleaning the DPF, but then I’m scared of the back pressure blowing the turbo again. Guess they should be done at the same time. I’ve ordered the luqi moly products for good measure.
CCROBIN , did you ever figure out what the oil consumption issue was?
I haven't, no. Once winter came I just haven't had the time or space to comfortably work on it. I suspect it is a stuck/broken ring and the result of blowby (which sucks), though am still hopeful that when I investigate further this spring that it is perhaps just the turbo seal, crankcase vent valve, or something similar.
Also considering adding an actual blockoff plate for the EGR, as thus far I only did the ECU delete. Not sure if this can be adding to the problem, so perhaps someone with more knowledge could clarify the benefits of adding the EGR blockoff plate?
Also considering the technique of adding Marvel Mystery Oil to the injector ports and soaking the block for a week. From what I hear if it is a stuck ring, this could help free it up.
Remove the freaking DPF!!! At some point I’ll design a change over valve that will bypass DPF on the fly and route through it when I’m loading kids into the car etc... I just put a new turbo and stage 1 tune and I can tell you the car is very capable, DPF is a big piece of junk ruining this rig
also our turbo is not water cooled, so the oil has to be thicker (than 30 atleast) and it has to be changed frequently, go figure
and when we’re done with oil consumption issues, the suspension will be out of alignment (bushes), trunk will stop working, drl will turn headlights on on a sunny day, glow plug controller will go out, chain tensioner will stretch the chain, transfer case will go out, adblue heater needed bla bla... money pit
Remove the freaking DPF!!! At some point I’ll design a change over valve that will bypass DPF on the fly and route through it when I’m loading kids into the car etc... I just put a new turbo and stage 1 tune and I can tell you the car is very capable, DPF is a big piece of junk ruining this rig
also our turbo is not water cooled, so the oil has to be thicker (than 30 atleast) and it has to be changed frequently, go figure
and when we’re done with oil consumption issues, the suspension will be out of alignment (bushes), trunk will stop working, drl will turn headlights on on a sunny day, glow plug controller will go out, chain tensioner will stretch the chain, transfer case will go out, adblue heater needed bla bla... money pit
DPF has been removed and delted. EGR deleted (but no blockoff plate), Swirl Flaps deleted, SCR deleted. It is running great, but the oil consumption issue is what I am trying to focus on now. I can accept some consumption but it is fairly extreme. I have to believe blowby (if existing) is only a portion of my consumption issues. If I can substantially reduce the oil consumption, that is a win in my book.
I suspect my Crankcase Vent Valve is in need of replacement (146K on the vehicle now, and it has never been changed). My question is how much can this affect oil consumption? Also, with the EGR deleted from the ECU is it fine that I don't have a blockoff plate installed, or could that also be contributing? Now that the temps are going to start warming I will be looking to tackle this soon and am trying to develop a game plan and budget for it.
CCROBIN , did you ever figure out what the oil consumption issue was?
Well, I replaced the CVV today so we will see if that helps.
Also, see what I found when I removed the intake:
Not sure if this could lead to oil consumption, but it can't help. New intake gasket ordered. Will report back in a few days once I've had a chance to run with the new CVV, and again once I get the intake gasket replaced.
In addition to a full ECM tune with all the deletes and DPf and Cat delete pipe , mine still was using oil like mad but , I just 2 days ago blocked off the round port in the plastic intake Y and ran what is called an Elephant hose from the crankcase vent to a hose going out beneath the car. I have a catch can to install if dripping or fumes becomes an issue. Hoping this helps/fixes the oil issue. I still had a very oily intake.
Hi, hope you don't mind me Jumping in...
If you blocked off the round port in the plastic intake Y (Referred to as the Bat Wing) and you still got all that oil on the cold side of the turbo....the turbos gone as there is no other way for the oil to get there other than from its own supply from the pedistal it sits on!
Oil push in then gravity back to sump out....but if crank pressure high there is more oil going in than can get out.....
I'm unsing a catch can...and even looking at fiitting a modified oil filler cap with filter too......these OM642 create above adverage blowby.....this can I'm sure force oil out of the rear or exhaust side of the turbo seal on a perfect turbo...(Just gone through 3 recon turbos) smoke at long idle like after 30mins or so!
Rest of the time its PERFECT....no smoke on 1st start, short idle.....acceleration....down hill you name it.....only does it if left to idle when warm for 20-30mins....so strange....but apparantly not for these engines! (Mines a 2007 none DPF too so only cats)
Just a case of trying all you can to reduce it....
Any progress regarding the oil consumption.
Here's my summary:
I replaced a bad turbo a year ago. Did the LiquiMoli DPF cleaning.
I was getting NoX sensors codes , then about 3 months ago, started getting the oil loss ( adding a quart or more every 200-300 miles). Last month I replaced the CCV ( oil separator) , at the same time replaced file filter and gasket to turbo inlet.
Right after that, I got the high soot content of the dpf code ( 18 grams), with CIL illuminated, and
New and old CCV ( oil separator)
burning oil smell in the cabin when heat turned on.. Driving long distance with 70-almost 80 m/hr didn't help regeneration.
Any suggestions for a possible next step.
06-10-2019, 05:45 PM
