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I almost made it through summer and low and behold, I let my GL sit for a week in the texas sun and now the A/C is acting up. Wont blow any colder than 70 degrees out of the vent whether its 95 out or 80 degrees outside. I had the freon checked and it seems to be okay, but wont blow cold. Weird thing is, when I hit the A/C button the temp will raise to almost the outside air temp and when I click the A/C back on, it will lower back to 70. So it tells me the compressor is kicking on and off, just not getting down cold, so I think (hope) the compressor is good since it disengages and re-engages.
Any thoughts on what else to look for?
Also for some reason the left (driver side) seems to be running about 5 to 10 degrees warmer. Not sure why that is, but I know on older models I've read there is a way to "reset" the HVAC system. (Holding defrost/recirc buttons) Does anyone know if there is a secret/hidden way to reset the HVAC system in the 2011 model?
Thanks any help to get me out of the sweat on the ride home would be great.
When you had the freon checked, was it just with a simple gauge? That's not always indicative of what's going on. I'd get it evacuated and refilled properly based on weight.
You could have a blend door issue, but it's also not uncommon to see that problem (the difference in temp from one side to the other) when the freon is low.
When you had the freon checked, was it just with a simple gauge? That's not always indicative of what's going on. I'd get it evacuated and refilled properly based on weight.
You could have a blend door issue, but it's also not uncommon to see that problem (the difference in temp from one side to the other) when the freon is low.
What he said.
Most likey reason is low freon. Best way is to evacuate, check for leaks, fix and refill.
Short cut (but probably wrong way to fix ) - is to add a small freon can but don't let the gauge go in red range. and then check the cooling.
Well sure enough....took it to an indy shop and they did a system evac. They told me the "compressor is weak" so total cost to repair is $2781......$1000 for parts and $1600 for labor.......UGH. They are saying I need to replace the compressor, condenser, and the expansion valve all at once. Looks like they are quoting me $959 for all 3 items assuming all OEM stuff.......I can buy all this for less than half of what they are charging.
Has anyone used gone with aftermarket A/C parts? (RockAuto) Any feedback? This is not my daily, really its just a second car, so not really feeling spending $2700 right now, so just feeling out options at this point.
To make matters worse....they told me I need a new strut ($2300), Lower left and right front control arms ($1500), Engine Motor & trans mounts ($1200), power steering leak ($831), and General Maint items ($1331). So drop it off to look at an AC problem and wind up with ($10,000) in quoted work.......
If the shop did a Evac - at Evac they hold that for like 10 minutes as a leak test - they would tell you at that time if there is a leak - if there is no leak then they Refill - now "sometimes" a shop will "short" the Refill.
A compressor is a compressor - a expansion valve "can" be replaced if clogged with system junk from a blown compressor - a condenser can be replaced if it has been a punctured or clogged with junk (or flush cleaned) - if replacing the compressor you do need to replace the drier...
If it was me - if there was some improvement with fresh fill - the question is whether not these guys did a righteous fill..
Sure they quote everything else they see... yep, real dang high... it's up to you to follow thru with alternate diagnosis and strategy..
If the shop did a Evac - at Evac they hold that for like 10 minutes as a leak test - they would tell you at that time if there is a leak - if there is no leak then they Refill - now "sometimes" a shop will "short" the Refill.
A compressor is a compressor - a expansion valve "can" be replaced if clogged with system junk from a blown compressor - a condenser can be replaced if it has been a punctured or clogged with junk (or flush cleaned) - if replacing the compressor you do need to replace the drier...
If it was me - if there was some improvement with fresh fill - the question is whether not these guys did a righteous fill..
Sure they quote everything else they see... yep, real dang high... it's up to you to follow thru with alternate diagnosis and strategy..
So you're thinking if it's a bad compressor, that I could /should start with the compressor/dryer first, see if that cures my ills, and take my chances on the condenser and evap valve?
Based on those ridiculous quotes, do you really want to trust them on whether or not the compressor is bad, or not? It could be, sure - but I'd sure as heck be getting a second opinion before doing anything.
What were the results of the evac? They should have told you if the system was low, or not, and then how much freon it took.
Based on those ridiculous quotes, do you really want to trust them on whether or not the compressor is bad, or not? It could be, sure - but I'd sure as heck be getting a second opinion before doing anything.
What were the results of the evac? They should have told you if the system was low, or not, and then how much freon it took.
So the part that was missed in all this...is I originally I took it to Pepboys.....they said system was low....so they put dye and freon in there. They said they had it cooling....well...it was cool....but not cold afterwards. I was led to believe Pepboys.....didn't seem to know what they were doing.
This new shop said...when they hooked to the system...they said it was overcharged. So now I'm two shops deep in paying for an accurate diagnosis.
So the part that was missed in all this...is I originally I took it to Pepboys.....they said system was low....so they put dye and freon in there. They said they had it cooling....well...it was cool....but not cold afterwards. I was led to believe Pepboys.....didn't seem to know what they were doing.
This new shop said...when they hooked to the system...they said it was overcharged. So now I'm two shops deep in paying for an accurate diagnosis.
Hence why I am seeking advise here.
Advise... that's what were trying to do!
I understand that you've now paid two shops - but that doesn't mean you should just start replacing parts ***** nilly - if you do, you're replacing parts based on inaccurate information... which can cause you to spend MORE money in the long run. Speaking of "long runs"... and accurate AC system check is pretty cheap. Find a reputable place that does AC systems - it doesn't necessarily have to be a full fledged MB/Indy shop. If you don't get an accurate diagnosis it's worthless to proceed with a fix.
Overcharged can cause the air to be warmer than expected, too.
What were the results of the evac? Or, if you don't know the results, are you sure that they at least charged the system to the proper weight? They may, indeed, have done it correctly and be accurate in their assessment - but based on the info you have provided, it's not obvious that it was done. Either way, there's no way I'd be going to that shop (based on what you've written).
I understand that you've now paid two shops - but that doesn't mean you should just start replacing parts ***** nilly - if you do, you're replacing parts based on inaccurate information... which can cause you to spend MORE money in the long run. Speaking of "long runs"... and accurate AC system check is pretty cheap. Find a reputable place that does AC systems - it doesn't necessarily have to be a full fledged MB/Indy shop. If you don't get an accurate diagnosis it's worthless to proceed with a fix.
Overcharged can cause the air to be warmer than expected, too.
What were the results of the evac? Or, if you don't know the results, are you sure that they at least charged the system to the proper weight? They may, indeed, have done it correctly and be accurate in their assessment - but based on the info you have provided, it's not obvious that it was done. Either way, there's no way I'd be going to that shop (based on what you've written).
Yes.....and believe me all this advice is definitely good info....so thank you. Honestly all the Indy European shop told me.....was they checked the freon level, said it was overcharged, so they did a complete evact and recharged it to the proper level. There was no indication of leaks from the dye of the first place and they filled it up to proper level.
Then he said "your compressor is weak" and is what's causing the issue.
Honestly I don't know what technical questions to ask of them as I am not too A/C diagnosis literate.....
Can definitely try to find another shop....would you recommend any national chains? Have no confidence in Pepboys or these guys.
Don't most now have sufistacted diagnostic machines specifically for A/C testing?
OK, if they said they did the evac and charged up to the proper level, let's go on the assumption that they did it properly. I mean, the machine does most of the work, anyways... so unless they just blatantly lied about doing it at all, then at least that part of their diagnosis should be accurate.
Yeah, any of those big chain stores like Pep Boys is hit or miss. It all depends on the guy you get - but then, I ask myself... if he's really good at his job... couldn't he make more money working somewhere else? I'd rather err on the side of caution and go to a local/independent garage. The question is, as you're finding out, how do you know if THAT garage is honest/good? The best thing I can tell you is to just do some homework and ask around - friends/family/coworkers. Word of mouth is still a great tool for these kinds of things.
Got a question for the OP: when the Indy shop did the evac and refill of system, and then told you the compressor was weak, did they give you any stats on why the compressor was weak (i.e. any actual values of the low side and high side of the gauges) or did they just tell you it was weak? Normally when hooked up to high and low gauges the low pressure side of the compressor should read about 36-45 psi. And the high side should read between 175-225 psi. A worn out compressor would read about 60-80 psi on the low side of the gauges and indicate about 125 psi on the high side of the gauges. Any chance you can go back to them armed with this info and see if they recorded these values it in your file? Absent a reading of the pressure gauges, I would be more suspect of a faulty expansion valve. A faulty expansion valve can definitely cause the system to underperform as you’ve indicated. What I like about what you stated is the Indy shop said they didn’t see any leaks - that’s a very good thing. Yes, it’s possible the compressor could be dying a slow death, but I’m leaning more towards the expansion valve. Of course, it could be a combination of both compressor and expansion valve. I have limited experience with AC systems, but I did a detailed write up on my experience with procedures below: https://mbworld.org/forums/gl-class-...lve-gl450.html
In my case, the compressor was bad and would not turn on. Thus, I replaced the compressor, expansion valve and the dryer. I considered doing the condenser in conjunction with the dryer, but opted to forego the condenser. The AC in my GL is still a meat locker after a couple years post repair.
As far as parts for the car, a Denso compressor is oem and is what I would recommend. Mine was about $350 a couple years ago. You can’t go wrong with a Behr expansion valve and Behr dryer. I believe these are also oem. Sometimes you can get a deal on a Behr condenser/dryer combo. I used Amazon for the Denso compressor and FCPEuro for the expansion valve and dryer.
Please let let us know any values you can get and take a look at the write up to get more familiar with the system.
Actually, I didnt mean to be so vague, what they told me was the "compressor was weak", but what the print out the gave me said, "checked a/c system, found it to be slightly overfilled, recharged with correct amount of freon and checked pressure readings. Low side is reading high (60 psi) and High side is reading 130psi. Cooling fan is working. Compressor pressures point to a weak compressor. Recommend replace compressor, condenser w/ drier, expansion valve (front)"
I didnt over quiz them about the diagnostic process, since my familiarity with A/C systems is a bit limited....LOL
Got a question for the OP: when the Indy shop did the evac and refill of system, and then told you the compressor was weak, did they give you any stats on why the compressor was weak (i.e. any actual values of the low side and high side of the gauges) or did they just tell you it was weak? Normally when hooked up to high and low gauges the low pressure side of the compressor should read about 36-45 psi. And the high side should read between 175-225 psi. A worn out compressor would read about 60-80 psi on the low side of the gauges and indicate about 125 psi on the high side of the gauges. Any chance you can go back to them armed with this info and see if they recorded these values it in your file? Absent a reading of the pressure gauges, I would be more suspect of a faulty expansion valve. A faulty expansion valve can definitely cause the system to underperform as you’ve indicated. What I like about what you stated is the Indy shop said they didn’t see any leaks - that’s a very good thing. Yes, it’s possible the compressor could be dying a slow death, but I’m leaning more towards the expansion valve. Of course, it could be a combination of both compressor and expansion valve. I have limited experience with AC systems, but I did a detailed write up on my experience with procedures below: https://mbworld.org/forums/gl-class-...lve-gl450.html
In my case, the compressor was bad and would not turn on. Thus, I replaced the compressor, expansion valve and the dryer. I considered doing the condenser in conjunction with the dryer, but opted to forego the condenser. The AC in my GL is still a meat locker after a couple years post repair.
As far as parts for the car, a Denso compressor is oem and is what I would recommend. Mine was about $350 a couple years ago. You can’t go wrong with a Behr expansion valve and Behr dryer. I believe these are also oem. Sometimes you can get a deal on a Behr condenser/dryer combo. I used Amazon for the Denso compressor and FCPEuro for the expansion valve and dryer.
Please let let us know any values you can get and take a look at the write up to get more familiar with the system.
Actually, I didnt mean to be so vague, what they told me was the "compressor was weak", but what the print out the gave me said, "checked a/c system, found it to be slightly overfilled, recharged with correct amount of freon and checked pressure readings. Low side is reading high (60 psi) and High side is reading 130psi. Cooling fan is working. Compressor pressures point to a weak compressor. Recommend replace compressor, condenser w/ drier, expansion valve (front)"
I didnt over quiz them about the diagnostic process, since my familiarity with A/C systems is a bit limited....LOL
Great insight on what parts to get, thank you. Yes RockAuto had the Denso compressor about the price you quoted. Do you think this is kind of a driveway type replacement, or did you have to get your GL on a rack? Also you did have to take the front bumper cover off, yes?
Do you think this is kind of a driveway type replacement, or did you have to get your GL on a rack? Also you did have to take the front bumper cover off, yes?
Thanks
Yes, its a driveway diy (except for freon fill up) and wrote up some directions from my install a couple years ago. Yes, front bumper comes off.
Like Mefferso said, you can do it in the driveway. Without his excellent writeup above, I would not have had the confidence to tackle this job. Thank you Brother!
Easiest way to access the compressor is taking the driver's side front wheel off and inside liner. This will give you access to upper parts of compressor bolts/hoses, and the lower bolts are accessed from under the car. Front bumper cover comes off because you cannot remove the dryer without removing the front bumper cover. Easiest way to access the expansion valve is to open the hood to the highest setting (it's almost vertical). You could put a jack stand under the driver's side and close the hood if you want to button up the job and break the it up over a couple days. I'll include a couple of pics below to show you locations and how it looks. My writeup is here: https://mbworld.org/forums/gl-class-...lve-gl450.html
Location of expansion valve.
Close up of location of expansion valve.
OEM expansion valve after taking it out of car. New expansion valve had exact same name/lettering.
What the GL looked like with front bumper cover off, driver's side front wheel off and wheel well lining removed. The arrow points to where the receiver/dryer is located.
09-13-2019, 01:40 PM
They are saying I need to replace the compressor, condenser, and the expansion valve all at once. Looks like they are quoting me $959 for all 3 items assuming all OEM stuff.......I can buy all this for less than half of what they are charging. 
