GL Class (X164) 2007-2012: GL320CDI, GL420CDI, GL450, GL550

Brake Bleeding Question

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Old Oct 31, 2019 | 12:35 PM
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Brake Bleeding Question

Can the brake system be bled the "normal" way (power bleeder hooked up to brake reservoir, for example)? Or does one HAVE to use STAR? Or do we only need STAR if we mess up and introduce air into the system? Sorry for the likely simply question, but in googling, I'm getting mixed answers.
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Old Oct 31, 2019 | 02:25 PM
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Pressure bleeder on the reservoir between 10-15psi. Start on the right rear then left rear then right front lastly left front. Should all be 11mm.
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Old Oct 31, 2019 | 03:11 PM
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Perfect, thank you! I have a MityVac 7201 (8qt.) and have tried using that (vacuum, right on the bleeder screw) on other vehicles. But I always seem to get air bubbles - which I assume is air leaking in around the MityVac's rubber fitting that snaps onto the bleeder screw. But it made me nervous that somehow air was getting into the brake system... although logically I know that's not the case. Maybe I just need to trust logic! On the other hand, a pressure bleeder would be a little faster since I wouldn't have to keep monitoring the brake reservoir.
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Old Nov 1, 2019 | 09:33 PM
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Yeah, get a pressure cap for the reservoir.

Suction out the old fluid (empty the reservoir). Put in fresh fluid. Put on the pressure cap. Very low pressure is plenty. It's so easy it seems weird.

Using 1/2" ID tubing, I made a doohickey to moisture test the fluid coming out of the caliper.

The furthest caliper will about drain the reservoir, so you have to refill it before going on to the next.
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Old Nov 4, 2019 | 12:48 PM
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Yes, you can pressure bleed. Usually, that means that you won't be swapping the fluid that is inside the ABS pump, but it's so minimal that it's not an issue.

The reservoir cap is standard issue Ate so any pressure bleeder for a BMW or most other euro car will work.
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Old Nov 4, 2019 | 03:48 PM
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Think I'll be buying a power/pressure bleeder soon! Thanks for the input, guys!
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Old Nov 5, 2019 | 10:19 AM
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Here's my setup. Obviously that's not a GL, but I was bleeding brakes last night so figured I take a snap.

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Old Nov 5, 2019 | 07:41 PM
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Yup - that's what I'm gonna do. In fact... just ordered the power bleeder right now. I've actually had a Motive power bleeder for about 10 years - but I bought it to convert it to a marine gearcase filler. Got nice, internally valved fittings so there's no mess when I disconnect, too (fittings automatically close when disconnected).

Side note... did you cut the concrete floor so that lift fits flush into it? You're sick! ...and I'm jealous!
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Old Nov 5, 2019 | 09:51 PM
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"Side note... did you cut the concrete floor so that lift fits flush into it? You're sick! ...and I'm jealous! "

Yes, that's exactly what I did. Even though the lift is very low profile and designed to just bolt to the floor, the race car didn't really clear it, so I cut the concrete and poured a 12" deep footer to hold the weight, and then poured recessed boxes to hold the lift.
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Old Nov 6, 2019 | 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by sak335
"Side note... did you cut the concrete floor so that lift fits flush into it? You're sick! ...and I'm jealous! "

Yes, that's exactly what I did. Even though the lift is very low profile and designed to just bolt to the floor, the race car didn't really clear it, so I cut the concrete and poured a 12" deep footer to hold the weight, and then poured recessed boxes to hold the lift.
I take it the slab was not post tensioned.
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Old Nov 11, 2019 | 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by eric_in_sd
I take it the slab was not post tensioned.
I'm not familiar with residential construction in California, but I've never seen a post tensioned residential slab on the east coast. I've done a ton of construction, including being on the PMO on the 5th tallest building in Manhattan, and PT slabs are not super common due to engineering complexity vs benefits. Which is a long way of saying that this is just a re-bar slab. I poured 5,000 PSI concrete 12" thick underneath which was total overkill, but then again, I already had the concrete truck in the driveway so may as well make it bomb-proof.
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Old Nov 11, 2019 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by sak335
I'm not familiar with residential construction in California, but I've never seen a post tensioned residential slab on the east coast. I've done a ton of construction, including being on the PMO on the 5th tallest building in Manhattan, and PT slabs are not super common due to engineering complexity vs benefits. Which is a long way of saying that this is just a re-bar slab. I poured 5,000 PSI concrete 12" thick underneath which was total overkill, but then again, I already had the concrete truck in the driveway so may as well make it bomb-proof.
Slab on grade is common around here, so I think the strength of the slab with respect to the rim, and for seismic strength, is more important.

12" thick. Hm, I've been getting concerned about Antifa here in Commiefornia. You sound like the guy to hire to build a pillbox machine gun nest.
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Old Nov 11, 2019 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by eric_in_sd
Slab on grade is common around here, so I think the strength of the slab with respect to the rim, and for seismic strength, is more important.

12" thick. Hm, I've been getting concerned about Antifa here in Commiefornia. You sound like the guy to hire to build a pillbox machine gun nest.
Not much better this < > close to Philadelphia. If we learned anything from the Germans rolling over France in 1939, it's that a good offense is better than digging in. My advice is to mount a .50 cal in the bed of a Tacoma.
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Old Nov 11, 2019 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by sak335
My advice is to mount a .50 cal in the bed of a Tacoma.
Please. This is a GL forum. Let's discuss popping out the back roof glass so the .50 can be mounted on the roof and you can shoot facing forward or rear, standing up through the sunroof.
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