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Guys, haven't looked closely enough at the GL suspension, but typically shops will use "crash bolts" and/or eccentric washers to adjust camber when no factory adjustment is possible. A good shop will do this for you, especially one that specializes in Mercedes. The only thing I don't do on my own on the GL is alignments (I do my own alignments on my cars since I have plenty of experience from racing...) I have a local indie do it; he rents time at a local alignment place since he doesn't have his own rack. But the results have been excellent and my tire wear has been so much better since I took it to him.
Camber is pretty easy to do yourself, with the caveat that you can only do it relative to what it was. Just don't move the vehicle, or you lose your reference point!
Front was not the issue for the extreme wear and the changes made a real difference in tire wear. I can buy a few sets of tires for what you want for your kits. Doesn't make sense to purchase.
Unfortunate - as we do offer BETTER RESULTS (AND PRICE).
KMAC Front "upper wishbone adjuster" not just Camber but importantly "Caster" as well to cater for the new Camber settings also allowing to correctly resolve steering pull (along with half the time to install).
Also not to void warranty, KMAC is not welded, fabricated steel but retaining the security, integrity (and peace of mind) of the existing OEM/factory forged alloy high strength arms.
While KMAC rear - not just Camber but extra TOE as well - necessary to compensate for the additional Camber settings.
KMAC Rear unlike your upper arm adjuster also retains important clearance top of tire to outer fender when adjusting to reduce premature inner edge tire wear.
As mentioned in previous reply GL suspension there is no facility for crash bolts. Besides they only offer inaccurate one offset position - and a minimal 1/8" (0.3 degree).
While KMAC front and rear adjusters provide up to 1.5 degrees Positive or Negative and are precisely accurate (direct on alignment rack under load)
Well, I finally got around to adjusting the rear camber. I'm kicking myself because I was forever bugged by the uneven tire wear (inside shoulder, negative camber), and adjusting it turned out to be pretty easy. It's not a very risky thing to take on yourself, because the adjustment range is so small.
On the rear, there is a massive lower control arm, which carries the shock absorber and the spring. There are two upper arms, one at an angle and one with a bend:
At the inside mounting point of the upper arm
is a cam bolt, with an eccentric washer:
The rearward nut locks it in place; the bolt head can be turned once the nut is loosened:
Turning the cam so its low point faces out moves the control arm mounting point out, making the camber less negative:
The previous alignment had shown 2 degrees negative camber. Rotating the cam bolt to the most positive position added about one degree, so the camber should now be one degree negative. Maybe this will help with my inner shoulder wear.
It's a mystery to me why the GL ships from the factory with so much negative rear camber. Hope this helps.
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