COOLANT SMELL
Problems: (1) Coolant smell in and out of truck. Mostly in engine bay and very strong inside even with air off
(2) Auxiliary water pump stays on once the ignition is on. only shuts off when the truck is off
(3) Losing coolant
To be sure where the coolant is going, you must pump up (pressurize) the coolant system.
A cheap kit for this can be found at Harbor Freight, or can be had at parts houses.
Make sure the system is full to reservoir level, you may have to warm it up to operating temperature (thermostat opens) then turn it off and let it cool to top it off again.
The test is best done with cold motor, because rubber shrinks (hoses tighten up and seal around fittings) when warmed, unlike most materials which expand when heated.
So leaks will show up best dead cold.
You have to be ready to look everywhere.
I found coolant was pooling under the brake booster in my car on a flat place behind wheel well - it turned out was short hoses between engine compartment sound panel and the firewall.
(Lines go to the heater core but have short hidden sections between firewall/interior and what looks at first like the firewall, but is an extra layer in the engine compartment)
I had to remove the windshield wiper stalks, plastic valence panel below the windshield, and a small sound panel in the engine compartment to get to these.
Actually, more than that...
The panel in the engine compartment has plastic pipe fitting comings through it.
My leaks were from the short hoses behind and connected to the plastic pipes - the stock clamps cannot be tightened or adjusted.
I'm not positive that GLs and MLs have this extra void between the firewall and the engine, but I bet they do - to deaden the sound and provide a chase for the hoses.
I recall the MB hose clamps being praised when I was a kid - but I realize now they do it their way Solely for speed of assembly.








