After 210K miles, my GL feels pretty sloppy driving down the road and the front end has started making progressively more noise going over bumps. Some of the control arm bushings at the front were visibly torn, so I decided to replace all of them. FCP Euro sells control arms with new bushings already installed, but the cost is about $1,000 more than the cost of the bushings, so I ordered the bushings and will have a local machine shop press them in.

Control arm and spindle removal is pretty straightforward although the shop manual says to mark the rear lower control arm mounting point, because it can be slid somewhat side to side once loose, to I think adjust caster. It didn't mention marking the front lower, which also has a somewhat slotted mounting hole, which would affect camber. I'm just going to try to mount them in the same location based on the mark left by the mounting bolt. The hardest part of removal is getting the left upper arm off. The nuts are located on opposite sides of the shock tower under the hood. The forward nut is visible, but not very accessible due to the ABS unit/lines and coolant reservoir. I ended up taking the reservoir loose (one visible 10mm nut and it can be popped upward off the mount at the bottom) to get clearance. The rear nut is not visible, but can be accessed after taking the air filter housing off. You'll need a helper since you won't be able to reach the nut under the hood and bolt head under the fender at the same time. One of the two bushings on the upper arms was in bad shape on both arms, and the rear bushing was shot on both of my lowers. The front lower bushing was intact on both but had cracks. The bushing for the shock attachment point was the only one that looked to be in good shape, but since I have a replacement, I'll replace that too. The axle nut is 36mm for reference.

The other hard part was getting the nut off the ball joint. Unlike the other fasteners that are also very tight, there is no clearance to get an impact/socket on it, so you need to use a wrench. I'd advise having a cheater bar handy - they are really tight. The replacement ball joint doesn't look exactly like the original - I think because the original is pressed in, and the replacement looks like it would be pressed in, but has an extended threaded section that extends beyond the original so a lockring can be used to secure it. I'm not certain I'm going to be able to replace it though. I'm not sure how you could get a press on it to remove it from the spindle because there is a flange in the way right above it where the axle goes in but maybe the machine shop will have an idea. In any case, it seems to still be in pretty good shape with almost as much resistance to movement side to side as the replacement and the boot is still intact, so if it can't be replaced, I don't think it will be a problem.

I also ordered new inner and outer tie rods, but I'm going to return them as the originals don't have any noticeable play, and the end is also in good shape. It looks like you need a thin ~1 5/8" open end wrench to get the inner tie rod off. I'll update once the new bushings are on and an alignment has been done.

 

I actually thought about the exact same project as I was driving and hearing the front suspension making all sort of noises today afternoon.
Good luck in your project and I will looking forward to updates.
Nice picture and nice lift.

 

I like the lift! What’s brand and price?

 

That lift is clutch is you're gonna do the bushings the economical way - as your car will be high and dry while the machine shop does the pressing off and on of old and new bushings.
And then you have a sweet lift for all other up in the air type jobs!

Do tell more about the lift please.

 

EmilyMB/Max Blast - it is the 7,000 lbs. QuickJack. To make them work on a GL, you have to use them side to side rather than the normal front to back because the distance between the jack points front/back is too long even for the "long" version. I have the standard length model which is about 3" too short to span the lift points going sideways, which is why I have the 4 x 6s on top to extend them slightly, the extended version would be long enough to work as is. I had some issues with them leaking at a fitting initially, but new o-rings fixed that. Great tool to have in the garage. I wish I had bought them years ago. Much easier and safer than using a jack and jackstands.

I got the bushings pressed off/on at a machine shop. They had some trouble with them and it took 3.5 hours to do the bushings and the ball joints. I replaced the ball joints on the basis of mileage, but they were still in remarkably good shape. I would not have replaced them if ball joints hadn't come with the FCP Euro bushing kit. As shown below, the replacements are different than the originals with a lock ring at the bottom. One note on the ball joint is don't be like me and install the lower control arm before tightening the nut on the ball joint. There isn't clearance to get an allen wrench into the ball joint spindle to hold it in place while the nut is tightened, so I had to remove all the mounting bolts (which lets the arm hang down and allows the ball joint spindle to pivot enough to get vertical clearance) and then reinstall them again once the nut was tight. The tie rods and wheel bearings were also in great shape, which was surprising given 210K miles of use.

Overall, the project was a big success. The front end is quiet for the first time in about 70,000 miles going over bumps, and the front of the car feels much more "solid." It doesn't feel as vague going down the road (not a strong point to begin with) and it doesn't get jerked around going over small road imperfections. As with most projects, it took longer than anticipated with some little unexpected problems but it is a doable project if you have a reasonable amount of skill wrenching and have a good selection of tools. An impact wrench or long breaker bar is useful as the factory tightened fasteners are really tight (torque spec on most of them is in the mid-high 100 ft./lbs. range). Most of my background is Japanese cars, so I got to use sockets I've never used before. I needed a short 16mm at one point, and had to dig up a cheap socket set in a plastic box I got as a gift years ago to find one. The suspension mounting bolts are 16, 21 and I think 24mm.

 

Congrats on completing the DIY front end job, and thanks for sharing the info.

 

Thank you for the lift info. and sharing your big projects.

 

That’s right the first front suspension item to fail on these SUV models is the “lower arm inner rear bushings”. …… and OEM they are very expensive to replace!

At KMAC we specialize in and have had the experience of resolving OEM suspension short comings since 1964!

SEEING THE FRONT SUSPENSION ON THESE MODELS ALSO ONLY HAS "TOE" (DIRECTIONAL) ADJUSTMENT - NO "CAMBER OR CASTER ADJUSTMENT" to resolve costly, premature edge tire wear by allowing to spread load more evenly. We therefore not only supply a “lower arm complete front suspension bush kit” but also kit is designed to provide precise single wrench adjustment of both Camber and Caster. P/N 504016M at $595

Comes complete with bush extraction tool, so no need to remove arms from vehicle for fitment.

Also manufactured is an “upper arm” inner replacement bush kit which also is “Camber and Caster adjustable”. P/N 504016-3 K Priced at $480.

Same as lower arm kit providing up to 1.5 degrees Positive or Negative Camber adjustment which is more than enough to resolve most premature edge tire wear issues.

This upper arm, like the lower arm kit also includes bush extraction tool so can be fitted without arm removal.


FOR THE REAR SUSPENSION
Replacement bushes (4) for the lower arm mounts (the highest wearing) which incorporate "Camber and Toe" adjustment. Precise, single wrench adjustment accurately under load, direct on alignment rack. Fit without arm removal – bush extraction tool included P/N 504026 K $480

Delivery express air Worldwide $40 one kit ($60 front and rear).

 

I've seen some that have a bolt that looks like it is pressed in and some that have a screw in bolt. Are both removable? I have the new busing with the aluminum housing and I want to keep my original arms and just replace the bushings?

 

See spoiler below re K-MAC GL350 (W166) instruction sheet for Front Camber & Caster adjustment.

P/N 504016N $695 (same time also replaces the 2 rear highest wearing bushes).

Bush extraction tools included allowing fitment without need for arm removal.

In your situation where you have the 2 rear OEM mounts - as set out in K-MAC instruction sheet "Step D" it explains removal of existing bush.

K-MAC heavy duty replacement (which also provides Caster adjustment for the 1st. time) is designed to install by hand.

But OEM bush requires removal of arm to allow OEM bush to be pressed on !





AUDI to VOLVO - K-MAC Experience Of Resolving OEM Suspension Shortcomings Since 1964 !