Hey guys I'm new here and new to MB. I have a ram 1500 ecodiesel as well and do all my own maintenance. I had a couple questions. This is a 2011 with 175,000km deleted and we love it.

1. I've developed a leak (I know I know.. Lol) near the front left area. Appears to be the oil filter housing. Parts are pretty cheap locally around 200 CAD for the housing and new belt. It hasn't been leaking that long from what I can tell but the pullies do have oil on them. I've cleaned it up quite a bit and I'll double check before tossing parts at it....question is does anyone have documentation on this procedure? I see some on the GL450 with V8 but the configuration is different... (I wish my oil cooler was mounted at the front lol)

2. Oil blow by.... Really bad on these. I'm going to cut the PCV hose before the intake and route a provent 200 catch can in... Has anyone thrown a code doing this? If so I will get my tuner to delete it like I did the ecodiesel. The provent 200 has multiple vents so I'm not worried about pressure build up.

3. Does anyone have any decent manuals for these trucks? I see the digital download version on different websites its about 2.0GB. Im mostly looking for a PDF or actual book I can reference.

I'm sure I'll be around... I can see this truck having "lots of little things". Thanks in advance.

Eddy

 

 

Here's another one. Having a hard time uploading from a cell phone... Looking at it now it's kinda a mess. I did clean it up good though.

 

Hey, sorry i cant be of assistance, but just wondering who/where you got the delete from, and what was involved in that? I just picked up a 2010 and would love to get it on the road!

 

I bought it this way. Im from ontario and there are shops in the GTA that doe them. Just check kijiji. Warning.. they stink... alot LOL

 

Ah okay. Thanks! Yeah it needs a lot of work as well, but i just realized today its dumping adblue fluid and the exhaust STINKS of ammonia, and burns your eyes. I can deal with diesel stink lol.

Gotta fix the timing chain rattle first.

Im from ontario too, but 4.5 hrs north of toronto

 

oh nice yeah my DPF is hollowed out from a shop in scarborough. If i can find the number ill message you. how difficult is the chain tensioner fix??

 

Thanks!

Ill probably be hollowing it out myself. Still on the hunt for a good tuning place after i fix the chain.

Not sure yet, seems the tensioner is easy enough, about an hours job. Literally just unscrew the tensioner from the side of the engine and screw the new one in.

Just gotta wait for everything to open again so i can order it in.

Figured id give it a try first before i start tearing into the whole chain. 1hr sure as hell beats the multiple weeks it'll probably take me to do the chain, so if the rattle goes away with just the tensioner, ill be happy!

Doesnt look like my tensioner is over extended either from what u can see through the oil cap, which i believe tells me the chain isnt stretched. But i may be wrong.

Guess ill find out soon!

 

I can't tell exactly where it is leaking from the picture, but oil filters come with new O rings for the housing. The previous owner may have let them get old and hard or lost one leading to the leak.

 

good to know I did do the oil change about 2 weeks ago. used MANN filter and im pretty sure I got the O rings installed correctly. Like I said ill be double-checking it in a day or two after I did my good clean up of the engine.

Its my understanding all i need to do is remove the belt and tensioner (and possibly idler?), remove the bolts for the housing, change the gasket (well im going to replace the unit) and install in the reverse. on the GL450s it looks like there is coolant line to mess with but Its not the case with the GL350 diesel.

 

Hi Mate!
fellow Canadian.
Have GL350 2012 so it should be pretty much same. If you give me your vin, I can try to get you the right instructions.

I just ended up stripping engine down to the block so I had to remove the oil filter housing. But since I was stripping so much down I do not remember exactly what I took off. I think you are right that it is just the tensioner and one of the guide pulleys though. It was an easy job.

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can you tell me why you are replacing the whole housing? I mean if you don't mind dropping a couple hundred dollars, go for it. The only wear part I remember inside is a valve at he bottom but it was in great shape on my car and I have 225km.
The oil filter housing has 2 gaskets. One goes to the engine. This one you can easily find and order from the dealership even. The other gasket is between the two parts that make up the housing. This part is non replaceable and you must order a new filter housing if that starts leaking. If that is the reason you are looking at the whole housing, don't. That is a lie. You can find this gasket. I know because I made mistake of taking that apart lol. Idparts carries them, but when I ordered they were out of stock. I ended up buying from Amazon. You can find em on eBay as well, and a lot of them go together with the first gasket time will tell how long it will last, but it is not leaking now, and the old one was clicked and hard like plastic.

I don't think you will find a manual in PDF form, just get the WIS application. It is worth it, everything at your fingertips, fairly easy to find. Each manual will link to others if other things need to be disassembled in order to get to what you want. About of getting used to but you won't be the first to figure it out. You can also buy online subscriptions I hear (so you can remotely access it), if you into that kind of thing.

Cheers!

 

Thanks for the reply.

I think im going to just get it done tomorrow. The dealer has the housing in stock 1 remaining... of course its cheaper to do the two seals. I'm just like to get this thing finished by the time I order from IDparts and ebay its going to be a few weeks, plus damn covid lol.

The VIN is 4JGBF2FE6BA725214

I think ill pull the trigger on this WIS program, I feel like itll pay for itself with this truck lol.

Anyone tried a catch can on these?

Eddy

 

Fair enough, I totally feel you.
Here you go. I forgot that the charge air muffler thing is in front of it, you will need that off too. It has an o-ring on one side and a rubber gasket on the other if memory serves right. I would replace them since you are taking it off. Dealer will probably have them in stock and they are not expensive.

Yes WIS will pay for it self! Oh by the way, if you have never used these... In the WIS program, as you read through the instructions, in the rightmost column you will have additional reinstall instructions, and links to torque values (which will be at the bottom of the document). So you would click on the link for the torque (if a torque value is available, the instructions will have a little "Nm" box), and the program will take you there. Since these are pdf, you just have to match up the alphanumeric link with corresponding one at the bottom of the document to find the values. There will be a description of the fastener in the bottom section as well, but it is not always clear so compare the "link" value for reference. I am sure you would have figured this out yourself, but this will clear my conscience =)

I don't have catch can. I am still debating on it... I am worried that it may do more harm than good. My reasoning is that the PCV was designed to have a certain level of vacuum. When you add catch can and reroute the piping, you are reducing that vacuum, therefor less vapor gets sucked out. That leaves more blowby gas to mix with oil and form sludge which then blocks passages and leads to spun bearings. My approach for now will be using an oil with low evaporative characteristics and changing the air filters more often (dirty filter = more vacuum, and mine were filthy when I bought it). But there are plenty of people that swear by it, and some even vent to atmosphere. Some of them mechanics, and I am not one, so just my opinion based on what I researched fwiw. Here is a video that sent me down this rabbit hole, (it recommends the catch can):

Good luck with repair!

 

Thanks for the reply. Ok so part of the original oil leak that came with the GL was the duct to turbo inlet seal it was really bad. I change the oring down at the intercooler piping along with it. So the repair looks straight forward ill be attemping it this week.

I signed up for the online version of WIS 5 years for 50 USD or something. looks pretty in depth thats for sure.

Another thing ive noticed with the truck and I dont know if its the tune (fuel injection ? ) but after 4K RPM (not that I really hammer on it or anything) i get a decent amount of black smoke out the back... is it possible there is so much blow by its burning oil at higher RMS? or do I have another issue with turbo burning oil ? Which ive heard of.

I do get a tiny bit of white smoke coming out the back on cold starts. goes away after a couple minutes.

so much to learn with these trucks LOL

Eddy

 

Im no expert but I think black smoke is simply soot from diesel, white would be oil. You don't have a dpf so if you give er, there is nothing to catch the soot.

 

I sorta figured that.I was just concerned since my ecodiesel is deleted and throws no smoke, these are very simular engine designs.

I'm going to be doing a video on the oil filter housing tomorrow. I just checked again and the pully directly under the housing is wet. I'll keep ya posted thanks everyone.

 

Well I have some peoples attention here.. Lol... How many of you are running or heard of guys running rotella T6 it's 5w40 full synthetic... . Mind you I have no dpf etc. I use it in all my other diesels ( 3.0L v6 ecodiesel, tractors etc) it's basically God's gift to the trucking industry. I've heard of guys using it in the Om642. What's everyone's opinion?

Eddy

 

Hilarious, i was just researching this topic for the last 2 hours lol.

Emailed malone tuning, hope to get a response on the deletes by next week.

And was just researching rhe best oil once its done.

Seems like any recommended oil is fine tbh, but only if you change it regularly. I am strict on 5000km oil changes with all my vehicles. Only my work van sees 7000kms max as it gets a lot of hwy miles and gets driven a lot more.

I think i will be settling for rotella t6 5w40 once its all said and done. Seems like a good all around oil.

It does get to -35 celsius in the winter here, but i think it'll still be fine.

My timing chain rattle seems to have disappeared after i took the car for a drive. Started it up about 20 times since, not a hint of rattle at startup, even at -18 celsius nights we've had, which i am HAPPY about.

I guess i didnt leave it running long enough after the oil change

 

That is good to hear! Congrats on not needing to go through the ordeal of timing chain replacement! As for oil I also researched well in excess of 2 hours. That guy, forget his name, with interesting claims on OM642 shortfalls, and then plethora of sprinter source threads debunking his claims... I think I have come to a conclusion that he is not entirely correct, but some of his logic makes sense to me. I settled with Rowe. Some underdog German oil company apparently with good reviews. What had me interested, as I already stated was their claim of low evaporation. It is on IDParts.com so it must be alright. No long term trial yet though

 

I've heard good things about Rowe.

Now that I listen closely on start up... I have a split second of chatter as well lol. Maybe a quarter Second. Really nothing..... For now..

I will get that tuner for you today.


Eddy

 

Ok I have seemed to fix the oil filter housing leak. I recorded a good video on the entire process and ill post it onto my YT channel and share it with everyone in a couple days.

My next project is to replace the PCV valve and route in the provent 200. Ive already started playing with the plumbing locations. It wont look good but it should work.

NEXT question is.. In what order using WIS would I take to change the oil cooler seals ? (or even remove the intake for cleaning?). I doubt there is a point and click solution to change these as you have to remove quite a bit of stuff to get at the V. Has anyone used WIS to do the oil cooler seals on here?

Eddy.

 

I may have celebrated early lol.

Out of 5 startups, i got 2 with chain rattle for like 1.5 seconds. I dont yet know if its just the tensioner or the chain too.

Another pic shows the tensioner is....sticking out less. Not sure if this indeed means my chain is stretched or if the engine is just cold

Edit: Yup the tensioner extended a tiny but after warming it up.
​​​​​​So either its bleeding itself out and the tensioner needs replacement. Or my chain is stretched.

Any advice? I might just get it on the road and drive it till the summer before i actually tear into it if its the chain itself. I just find it odd that its not doing it every cold start

Sorry for hijackin your thread!

 

I think if you run it to front right (passenger) location like in the video I linked it will look alright. Do share. Maybe start a new post though for better tracking so it's easier to find info for future people.

Have you already played with WIS? Once you find the correct article(instruction), you can expand the article (click the little plus) to see what other steps are required. So for instance, when I found the article for replacing oil filter housing for you, double clicking it revealed the pdf for the actual housing removal, however when I expanded it, it showed the articles for removal of charge air muffler and removal of tensioner. Does that make sense?

​​​​I AM 99% sure there is an article for oil cooler seals which will show all the the other instructions if you expand it. I think that I remember seeing one for cleaning intakes as well, but if not, just follow oil cooler seal one, it should be same steps (plus the cooler). There are also some very good instructions written by members. Just search om642 oil cooler in Google and you will find DIY instructions and videos. When I did it, I followed both the big oil cooler thread and WIS instructions. I mostly used WIS for torque values. Pay attention to the torques, particularly on diy threads, they tend to jump between foot-pounds, inch-pounds, newton-meters, which can really mess your day up if you confuse them.

Hey s-350d, I think what is happening here, is the chain is just resting on it. The tensioner should not expand past a certain point. The one you pulled out probably fell apart? Like piston came out? Because that should not happen. So this tensioner may be sitting at the full expansion and the chain may be just resting on it, but it may be doing little to actually tension it? Just a guess though. Sorry to hear either way, chain replacement isn't fun. Though totally doable
Btw I think we should keep this info to the other bread that you started to keep things relevant.

 

Thanks! Ill post my response in my own thread now

 

I think OP has resolved his oil filter housing leak (which is almost certainly the cause of the leak show in those photos.) There is no need to replace the entire housing. While you can get the housing to block gasket at the dealer, the housing to housing gasket is not available from Mercedes. You can, however, get that gasket off eBay or other places or you can use high temperature RTV for the housing to housing gasket.