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I want to get the car to to a mechanic but not sure if the car is still drivable as it tilted so badly. Want to avoid the tow if possible (really tight on budget right now) Anyone please advise how can lower the higher side to match the sagging side? Also, what's the average cost to get it replace. Please help.
Here's the details :
My 2011 GL 350 has busted rear air spring and leaked front air spring (both on driver side). The driver side sits much lower and unable to lift up. The compressor still working when start the car and try to pump air to the suspension but can't lift the left side up. I've found a visible leak in rear suspension airbag. It has a big hole and I can feel the air come out too.
For the front driver side, I don't see any visible hole in the front air strut. The strut is still able to lift up slowly but struggle and can not get high enough. Also, deflate very quickly after shut the car off. I can hear the hiss from the wheel well, so positively an air leak but haven't test with soapy water yet, so not sure if it's leak at the air bag or air line.
In an emergency, YES, the vehicle can be driven once you level it off to it's lowest point (empty all the air springs). The tires should have sufficient clearance and will not rub.
..
First, remove the air compressor fuse (#108 in engine bay, 40AMP, orange) so you don't burn out the compressor.
SLOWLY unscrew the air inlet hose fitting on the front air strut to let the air out (10mm wrench). This is easily accessible from the engine bay.
Do the same for the rear. This, however, is a little trickier. You will need to remove the tire to have free access to the air line, unless you can somehow manage to get underneath the vehicle safely. Use this video for reference to the location of the air line:
Once the bags are deflated, re-tighten the fittings. And leave the fuse out. Drive the vehicle to your service shop, or home if you DIY. The ride will be bumpy so don't go all NASCAR driving home. 55 MPH on a smooth road should get you there safely. Be careful going over any speed bumps.. "
For reference, I drove my x164 for a full day, over 100 miles, completely lowered, due to a failed compressor while on a business trip. Replaced the compressor the next day, and all was good.
Edit: My ride has 18" tires.. 19's or 20's might rub (I don't know).
GL.
Last edited by Miguk_Saram; Feb 10, 2021 at 09:31 AM.
Miguk, you’re not wrong but the risks of driving a vehicle this heavy with no suspension far outweigh the benefit in my mind.
If OP can at least raise the front to limp it slowly it to a flat surface where it can be worked on, the rear bag is an easy 15 minute diy and the whole front strut assy shouldn’t take more than an hour.
Hi,
Thank you for very informative and useful reply. Really appreciate!
One problem! Today I removed the #108 40amp fuse and tried to start the car to see if the compressor will kick in. However, when turn the key to second position to switch on the dash light on (didn't start yet) I heard rattling / whir sound from the front right of the car. I was afraid that it might cause further damage, so I turn the key to switch off without starting the car. Then heard a long beep noise from the fuse box. The beep last about 1 min after the car was switch off. Then heard one click sound and the beep disappear. I still didn't put the fuse back in and didn't try to start the car again after that.
Is that whir sound and beed normal when take the fuse out? Can I really start and drive the car without the fuse in place? I'm afraid that it might cause big trouble.
The vehicle should start [and drive] fine without the air compressor fuse in place. I do not know where your 'rattle/whir' might be coming from, but it is likely NOT related to removal of the airmatic fuse.
Does the rattle/whir stop at any point? If so, it's probably the computer performing a normal startup diagnostic. Maybe someone else can chime in on this one.
For peace of mind, perform your test again: with the fuse removed, turn the ignition to position #2 to see if you notice the same whirring and prolonged beep. Then insert the fuse and do the same test again. Then remove the fuse and test a third time.
I assume you were able to start the vehicle previously (before you started this thread). So you should be able to do the same with or without the airmatic fuse in place.
I would consider a membership to a club like AAA in the US or CAA in Canada. Also, there are lots of credit cards on the market which have road side assistance as a benefit and will tow your car a certain distance. You probalby have one already, if you are paying an annual fee.
While owning older cars, I see it as an investment which pays for itself with one tow or call for a locked car with keys in it.
AAA is definitely a very good option in this case scenario.
It is an assumption which might be wrong but from the pictures, it looks like original poster is a used car dealer and this car might have been sold or traded in to him/her. In that case AAA might not be option as they might refuse to cover if something is known to be defective and isn't exactly roadside assistance.
that said, we know already that it needs a front and rear airbag. He might just buy and pay his mechanic to come and install it. It'd barely be 2 hours labor. I did my 2nd swap of fronts in less than 3 hours two weeks ago.
Im my opinion though, car can still be driven with deflated bags to short distances without any damage.
About the fuse and rattling problem, those two aren't related. Just make sure that the right fuse and relay is being pulled.
Last edited by TX07GL450; Feb 13, 2021 at 07:15 AM.
I did test the car again as you've suggested. The rattle/whir sound turn out to be from the AC fan. It can be heard clearly inside of the car from the passenger side console. the noise stop after I turn off the AC switch.
As for the beeping sound. It's not quite a beep. It's more like high pitch humming noise from the front right engine bay. The sound occurs no matter the #108 40amp fuse is in place or not. It starts right when the key is turn to the 1st position and continue about 1 minute after the car is turned off. After about 1 minute, there's a click sound around the fuse box then the noise stop. The noise happen with or without the engine start. Did some research and someone say that it might be the headlight fan noise. Not sure but hopefully it's normal.
I tried start the car with fuse in place again to see if the compressor will kick in. I start the car for about 30 sec. see no sigh of wheels rise, so I turn it off before the compressor burn out. Then hear the hiss from the front wheel that has issue. So, I assume that the compressor still working. The back wheel was completely dead though.
Ask around for repair quote. Some auto shop give estimate about $800 for each rear air spring replacement and $1200 for a front strut. Since the part is a lot cheaper, I might have to try to change the rear air spring myself to save some bucks. Then try to level the front wheels and drive to the shop.
Thanks you all again. Please feel free to let me know if you guys have more advise.
Where it is currently parked, you should be able to do the rear spring with a jack, jack stand and a 10mm wrench. Plus the lug nut wrench of course.
jack up the back of the car on the hitch, and put a jack stand under the left rear jack pad. Remove wheel.
undo the 10mm air hose connection. The bag should compress easily and wiggle out.
install the new bag and Mount pin. Slick off the old bag connector hardware and simply Insert the bare hose into new bag with the provided connector. Don’t mess with this connector other than to give the air hose a form pull to seat the seal.
mount wheel.
jack up the rear just enough to remove the jack stand, and lower the jack to what looks like a normal ride height. Start the car.
Slowly (doucement) lower the car to trigger the compressor pressurizing the system.
as other users have said : WALLA! Move it to shop to do the front strut replacement.
this should take 15 minutes.
Last edited by Max Blast; Feb 13, 2021 at 07:51 PM.
In my case, I had to disconnect one arm of the height sensor to move it away for some clearance/space. Don't recall if it was the lower or upper, but I think jt was lower arm. 8 or 10mm wrench/socket, IIRC.
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