Best oil filter for 2007 GL450?
#1
Best oil filter for 2007 GL450?
Should I just use the Mobil 1 filters? Planning on using the recommended Mobil oil, because it's not too expensive and regardless of whether or not it's only recommended due to a partnership between the two companies, it just seems like the smart thing to do. I'm also thinking about having my transmission flushed soon too, because I bought it at 100k miles and I'm pretty sure it hasn't been done yet. Makes sense to me to spend the money to do whatever it takes to keep this thing going another 100k miles at least. Any help would be great. Thanks in advance.
-GwagenNub
-GwagenNub
#2
Should I just use the Mobil 1 filters? Planning on using the recommended Mobil oil, because it's not too expensive and regardless of whether or not it's only recommended due to a partnership between the two companies, it just seems like the smart thing to do. I'm also thinking about having my transmission flushed soon too, because I bought it at 100k miles and I'm pretty sure it hasn't been done yet. Makes sense to me to spend the money to do whatever it takes to keep this thing going another 100k miles at least. Any help would be great. Thanks in advance.
-GwagenNub
-GwagenNub
Mann makes good stuff. I’ve used NAPA gold for years with no adverse effect.
Mobil was recommended because MB and Mobil had a business arrangement at the time the car was built and that sticker was put on the rad support.
lubrimoly makes good oils, so do amsoil and shell, aaand cue the oil debate.
EDIt: do the trans service at the dealer. This is the one time I would use the dealer service desk.
Last edited by Max Blast; 03-23-2021 at 11:10 AM.
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E55Greasemonkey (03-24-2021)
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Yup497 (03-23-2021)
#6
Au contraire. It is not that you get what you pay for. I installed a Bosch filter that came apart inside, opening up and allowing unfiltered oil to pass. I noticed it was a different design from the Mann.
It is that you pay for what you get. Not all expensive filters are good, but all good filters are expensive.
Hengst makes a similar filter to the Mann. It is also "fleece" which I think is a woven polyester. I would NOT use a paper filter; I would be too afraid the paper is not sufficient filtering and too tight - causing pressure drop. Yes those can both be true.
Without question, I would only install the branded Mann products. If you buy them carefully, you can get them for under $10. When you find them on sale, buy extras.
There are Chinesium clones available - do NOT take the bait and buy one. For all you know they are made from old t-shirts. Like face masks, possibly better than nothing, possibly worse.
I change the filter every 5K miles. You really can't filter the oil too much, and when the smaller passageways in the filter get plugged by fine particles, the fine particles then go around and through the larger passages. Ideally you would do bypass 1 micron filtering, but I guess the Mann filters are good enough for 200-300K motor life.
Regarding the tranny fluid: Just do a fluid change (drop the pan and change the filter). With an unknown history, do not do a flush. You risk dislodging gunk all at once.
You can do the procedure yourself if you have the scan tool that tells you the actual fluid temperature (and have the tools, a pan, and patient competence). Or you can take it to the dealer. I would be reluctant to take it to anyone in between. They have to use the right fluid and fill to the right level, and both are easy to make a mistake on.
Do the fluid change every 30K miles. It's not a "cliff" interval, with explosive disassembly at 30,001, but that is the rough consensus from competent individuals (transmission rebuilders).
Good luck, have fun. I'm at 180K miles and the truck just purred like a kitten on a 1700 mile road trip.
It is that you pay for what you get. Not all expensive filters are good, but all good filters are expensive.
Hengst makes a similar filter to the Mann. It is also "fleece" which I think is a woven polyester. I would NOT use a paper filter; I would be too afraid the paper is not sufficient filtering and too tight - causing pressure drop. Yes those can both be true.
Without question, I would only install the branded Mann products. If you buy them carefully, you can get them for under $10. When you find them on sale, buy extras.
There are Chinesium clones available - do NOT take the bait and buy one. For all you know they are made from old t-shirts. Like face masks, possibly better than nothing, possibly worse.
I change the filter every 5K miles. You really can't filter the oil too much, and when the smaller passageways in the filter get plugged by fine particles, the fine particles then go around and through the larger passages. Ideally you would do bypass 1 micron filtering, but I guess the Mann filters are good enough for 200-300K motor life.
Regarding the tranny fluid: Just do a fluid change (drop the pan and change the filter). With an unknown history, do not do a flush. You risk dislodging gunk all at once.
You can do the procedure yourself if you have the scan tool that tells you the actual fluid temperature (and have the tools, a pan, and patient competence). Or you can take it to the dealer. I would be reluctant to take it to anyone in between. They have to use the right fluid and fill to the right level, and both are easy to make a mistake on.
Do the fluid change every 30K miles. It's not a "cliff" interval, with explosive disassembly at 30,001, but that is the rough consensus from competent individuals (transmission rebuilders).
Good luck, have fun. I'm at 180K miles and the truck just purred like a kitten on a 1700 mile road trip.