I recently had a 404 code (EGR) and the engine went into limp mode about halfway between PA and ME. Truck actually shut off on the highway. Started back up, after some stumbling, and was able to finish the trip, just with less RPM's allowed... definite plus to having a diesel is I don't need the high revs! Ha! Take that, Mercedes! Anyways, all is good now - I pulled it out and cleaned it. It actually wasn't bad, at all - just some dusty carbon - nothing heavy or thick. So far, so good. But, it got me thinking... In my area, my car is exempt from emissions. I can't think of a single reason why keeping the EGR active is good for the engine?

I've been googling forever, but can't seem to find what I'm looking for. Admittedly, I don't know much about the reprogramming part, but what I'd like to do is just leave the EGR valve in place, disconnect the electrical plug and insert a "fooler" plug. I know this type of thing is available for other types of things, but I don't know if it is feasible for this application? I did find a Jeep/Merc delete kit - but the kit is simply the block off the plates and such... but says it still requires computer re-programming... but if I was able to find someone that can re-program (can that even be done?) to eliminate the EGR system "data" (or whatever it's called), why not just leave the EGR valve in place? With the plug removed when the engine is cold, the valve will be closed and will stay that way.

 

But it’s baaad for the environment…

I can’t think of a single reason to keep any of that emissions requirements gaming trash on the engine, other than if you were to sell it to a buyer where emissions testing is required. Then you’d have to disclose.

There are some build threads here where these deleted have been done - but; block off plates are usually not a good idea.

EDIT: There's a pretty good visualization of what parts you'd need to delete in the EGR in the last OM642 YouTube video post I made.

 

It's funny, my first thought was to just pull the EGR valve out and make a simple cover plate. Then leave the EGR in the engine bay, still attached to the electrical harness, so the computer would think all is good. And then reality hit... duh! That would be like running with the EGR port open ALL the time... totally the wrong thing I wanted to accomplish!

I've found delete kits, they run $400-some dollars for the pieces, but still requires re-programming. I'm fine with the leaving the valve in place since it will stay closed. I think all I really need to do, for functional purposes, is to code out the EGR or use a fooler plug (if possible). I'll look for your video - thank you.